troygordon2

How specific is this to your waist size? You could mold this and then pull casts from something like Task 16 urethane rubber pretty easily and get a flexible, very tough end result.

I think I printed the original for finishing and molding based on the dimensions of a standard TK stormtrooper helmet. It's just too expensive to make so many different molds, though I wish I could get away with it!

I'll PM you. Etsy is horribly difficult to work with lately.

Again, I could have sworn the standard not long ago was "general shape." That's some good wiggle room for things like visor shape and dimensions. There was nothing about a "return edge" when I designed my helmet and got approved, which is now present. Am I'm no longer approved? "True to shape" should, at this level of specificity, now require the particular materials used, no? Dimensions at least? PLA at so and so mm thickness? There needs to be more detail now that this can of worms has been opened. We take scale into consideration when looking at approval, but looking over that Jesus Salmeron file, I'd say the angles on the face plate are FAR sharper than those used in the vac formed screen used props. It's not "true to shape." Never mind the hard edges I'm seeing in and around the ears. I think we owe it to everybody who is willing to put the time and effort in to be specific and exact. I personally find this frustrating as a maker, yes, but I expect a lot of people out there will wonder what else isn't "exact" about their build. The Hasbro helmet looks like garbage in my opinion. Fine for a shelf, a shred above Spirit Halloween, and inadequate for approval for a wide variety of reasons. The Salmeron helmet isn't much better in its current incarnation. I can't fathom the requirements for the EC-11 given the quality of the props used in filming... I recommend adding more details regarding that return edge comment to clear up any ambiguity on this. Perhaps "The visor is XX mm thickness throughout the entire component with a return edge on the face and gently curving bevel around the rear and hinge area where it meets the main body of the helmet," or something like that. Maybe there is no confusion in your mind, but there is in mine. This makes me suspect others in class don't want to raise their hands, so I'll speak up and take the talking to.

So, I saw this and felt it needed to be addressed. The 501st requirements are pretty clear about what needs to be done for approval, and right now the term "true to the shape of the original screen used helmet" is used to describe the design. I could swear that it was "general shape" very recently... I agree that things like the battery pack and inset vents defy that, but this return edge may require some specificity in the CRL. If the return edge needs to be present, what's the width? What's the sharpness? Why not say, "vac formed from XX width plastic?" As somebody who made his own helmet that isn't vac formed, this means I'm out of spec and no longer approved? I'm willing to bet that many others who made theirs with 3d printed designs are also now out of spec. Am I wrong on all of this?

As an artist, this news is absolutely disheartening.

I use matte paint when I paint mine and then coat with the semi gloss or flat coat. Even the flat has a sheen to it and it comes off looking rather like a genuine firearm finish. I have found, through quite a bit of headache, that gloss runs more and is harder for follow on coat to get a good grip on. Whichever way you go, hold the can a good distance away and take your time between applying layers. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Spray paint is deceptive in that it appears to be a great idea, but in reality it takes a long time to get it on right.

You can PM me about a helmet if you wish.

Random thought from the Peanut Gallery: Put down the dremmel. It's tempting to think of it as the best tool, but ABS sheets are thin, will warp just from heat, and once that dremmel gets away, it causes all sorts of problems. I had a much easier time and required a lot less repair work by using an Xacto knife. Whittle away slivers at a time along your trace lines and then use some 120 grit or finer sand paper to smooth things out. Those ear holes are a pain in the butt, and I have to use a dremmel and oscillating saw when i finished the resin Scout helmets that I make and sell, but i've been doing it for a while now and (for the most part) have my technique well rehearsed. Even then, I can patch resin easier than ABS. Use power tools sparingly and you'll save yourself a ton of time on repairs. Remember, SLOW IS SMOOTH, SMOOTH IS FAST.

I make both, but I don't make the X scope portion of the DLT 19. I make them from resin too, so no print lines, and they don't be affected by heat and are much more durable. PM me if interested, I need to get back to work before the cold temps come back anyways.

Man... The number of times I've trimmed those up for Scout helmets only to see that safety and corporate information written in the corner of the visor I intended to use...

Superglue seems to work best on a gel coat surface that's been lightly sanded. I had no problem getting the plastic or the fabric nylon strapping to stick. CA does not seem to like it as much for whatever reason. If you're putting in strapping, I'd recommend impregnating it in between layers of whatever material you decide to use rather than gluing. It will prove much stronger if buried. Doesn't hurt to cut small holes in the middle of the straps too to ensure a better adhesion above and below the strapping.

Again, I've only used it as a top coat and then backed it with something else. I can't think of a reason why glues wouldn't bond to it, just depends on the glue. It's a wonderful material, but as you said, a tad more expensive. I make most stuff by slush casting polyurethane resins, but occasionally do a gel coat. I'll give it a test later, I have some scrap, and see how good old super glue and CA do with a plastic part and some fabric on it.

I've used both gel coat and plastidip. On gel coat, it's excellent stuff, but make sure it will bind with the material. Don't think it should be a problem with any older fiberglass resin, but I've only ever applied the gel first to the mold and then resin backed fiberglass to it. Again, probably not an issue. Also, it's applied with a brush, and that's easy. On plastidip, people seem to love it, but I do not since it peels away. A better product may be pickup truck bed liner, which comes out thick from a spray can and is very tough stuff. I can't say I've ever seen it chip of peel. Sand and trim away the pokey stuff with an Xacto knife (or whatever) and clean away the dust before applying anything. And wear a respirator for all of the above.

I make and sell a lot of different helmets, and my go to is a simple hot glue gun. DON'T use "All temp" glue though. You want the HOT stuff. Don't we all... Make sure it's hot or high temp glue though as the alltemp stuff does a poor job of holding on to plastics.

I'm 6' 180, and the SC kit was excellent and shipped quick. No real reason I went with them over Moncal, but the Scout kit was available, the contact/customer service excellent, and the price fair. The plastics used are all very nice too. I recommend staying away from the Walt's Trooper Factory stuff. It's quite flimsy and has a poor reputation.

I assume you've done your research on other builds? This one is older, but the techniques described were priceless to me when I assembled mine. Looking over LANCER applications is also excellent. Many great ideas and seeing the finished product is the way to go.

Hi all. I'm currently working on the Mountain Trooper design and as it shares some common parts with the Shore Trooper, I was hoping somebody could take some pics of how the chin greeblies fit in, the shape and design, and what the underside/rim of an approved helmet look like. Trying to make the best model I can to give to the community, so I appreciate the help.

Hold off on weathering. Also, when doing it, look into black wash from a model /hobby shop. It's a lot easier to dab on and clean off as you go through it. They also make a brown wash. It sits in the crevices, can be cleaned out pretty easily, or sealed in with clear gloss or matte spray paint. Looks dirty, but only as much as you want.

Or you wouldn't be able to take some measurements for me off that model? I want to get the cheek flare the proper size. made a lot of good headway on it so far though.

Thanks mate. Is there anything under the bell of the helmet rear? The Hover Tank commander had some weird pattern inside there, but it's possible on this scale they never needed to even think about it.

Thanks mate. i need profile pics to get the right slope on the face, flare of the helmet bell/rim, and idea on how that blast plate is on the ol' noodle. Profile pics especially though.

I'd like to make a model of the mountain trooper for us all on here, but the images I'm finding aren't very good. Does anybody have the black series toy and could they post some good close up pics of the helmet from various angles?

I use a lot of spray paint, and the simple answer is that it sucks. That's about it. If it's caked on to heavy it's a mess, if there's a smooth surface underneath the paint will dry and krinkle as it does so, and some brands hate each other for reasons that have something to do with the Middle East that is beyond me. I've had much better use with enamel though when I paint my helmets, but the key to a decent coat is to wet sand it and then seal it for a nice smooth, glossy finish. For things like my titanfall or halo helmets, it works fine, but the glossy clean look we need requires really nice paints/paint equipment, or extra work with some superfine sanding sponges and lots and lots of patience. Axel Rose understood. Each scout helmet I make generally takes many many days of doing nothing other than curing between coats. You may have better luck with airbrushing. Theres a company called duracoat which makes excellent paints for firearms that's easy to use, and you can get a basic airbrush and compressor for a relatively low price, especially when you consider how much your time costs you.

Couple things to work on, but if you've come this far then it's all little stuff. I'd drop the belt a bit to give the ammo pouches more room. Its how all the kids are doing it these days. And spacing on the pouches, keep it about 1 inch to either side of the outside stitching on the cumberbund (where the stripes are also about an inch apart if memory serves me). Also, get some 3 or 5mm foam from a craft store, trace a pattern from the crotch, and then cut a slit and insert the fitted foam piece in the rear to prevent the camel toe. when you bring the shoulder bells in, it should help with the bicep armor. Boots look GREAT! Not sure what you're going on about with crinkles, but they look awesome to me.