wannabeuk

Here you go ... The front sights and power cylinders are 3D printed. The T-Tracks are rubber. Everything else is either resin or PVC pipe. Reminds me I keep meaning to add the spring and charging lever

Just wait until you get to the abdomen pieces ... Oh the adventures you will have

Schoolboy error there bro

I made it.

Double post sorry

Heh ... I've been pouring over the same reference photos for my own build í ½í¸

3D printed blasters are not "that" fragile. But just like most plastic kits, they don't bounce when dropped. However, if you want the best, most realistic, most troopable blaster go for a PVC pipe build with resin / 3D printed parts and greeblies. The one I use with my TD (when I'm too tired to pick up my T21) I am always being asked if it is real. In any case, I thought Disney had pretty much banned blasters from their endorsed events. Maybe just in Europe.

From when I did my Sandtrooper, I would recommend you do all of the weathering at the same time. That way you will avoid potential stylistic differences between pieces. Also, don't forget to use the masking fluid / toothpaste / mustard method to create a layered weathering effect.

This? https://dirtydown.co...ay-200ml-400ml/ I'm kinda interested to see what it does

Thanks. Will amend my model for the mk2.

I've since updated the weaponlight and stock pad to be more accurate but haven't yet bothered to reprint. I still need to replace the standard mag for a long one, but I don't think that's a big deal. Easy fix. Will work LED lights into the next iteration.

I thought I would present my own E22 blaster 3D printed from my own model based on the props displayed at CE last year. Design model: Printed and assembled: Primed: Painted prior to weathering: Weathered and displayed at Fantasy Basel 2017:

Thanks. Interesting to note also the clear differences between the different props. There is a notable difference to the central receiver just behind the head of the weapon light where the barrels connect. CE version is flat (as I modelled on my own) vs the triangular projecting section on the collectible and the reference book.

What is this M Plate? Are there any images of it from screen-used props?

Print everything at 0.3mm layer height with either 2 or 3 perimeters. Printing at 0.2 just doubles your print time with no real visible difference. Make your infill around 20% but be careful where some of the files result in thin walls (<3mm) as this can cause voids in certain areas and result in weak parts. I recommend finishing with a couple of XTC resin coats to add strength and smooth the surfaces. Be mindful that some of the detail in Sean's files is not accurate and will require modding either prior to printing in the models themselves or after the old fashioned way.

Be careful with Sean's files. Printed "raw" they won't give you some of the correct details. Happy to share my own experiences to date. Check out my similar thread.

R2 is a definite time-sink. You should probably invest in a CR10 S5 in order to avoid printing the dome in sections and the inevitable join lines.

Thanks. A friend is going to take a trip to Halfords this week and ship me the exact paints.

Does anyone know the matching Pantone or RAL colours for the 3E5 Red and Nordic Blue? At the moment I am considering RAL 3020 Traffic Red and 5024 Pastel Blue. Any thoughts?

@skigro Microswiss is definitely one of the best upgrades for the i3 clones. I started out on a Wanhao myself. If you don't already, make sure you also have the flexible couplers for your Z axis motors. This will avoid Z wobble issues.

Great stuff. What waist size is the template designed for? How should this be scaled, if at all?

Looking really sharp. I'm a big fan of XTC.

TD-9714 of the Swiss Garrison here and new member of these forums. Thanks for the add. I'm in the process of building a Shore Trooper and thought as a first post here that I would share my own E-22 heavy blaster build. It's a fully 3D printed build made from my own model files. It weighs a completely troopable 0.6kg. In hindsight I might have threaded some 8mm studding through it for ballast.