wannabeuk

So basically you've no physical evidence.

Just a suggestion that perhaps you publish the source of the "recommended" spicy orange. I mean, how was this colour arrived at?

Good start. I've printed 3 sets of these files now and currently in the middle of 2 commission builds. Happy to help if you have any questions.

Just to put the question out there: Would anyone be interested in 3D printed Patrol Trooper armour (raw print) if I were to propose a short run? Price would be in the region of $750 plus shipping.

It's there. Might remodel this diagonal ribbed section to join around the back behind the triangular plates above the TD.

Not sure what you mean. Can you elaborate please?

Not content with the look or accuracy of armour currently available, I'm working on my own 3D model for the Patrol Trooper Armour. Comments welcome. I'm not likely to release the files so please don't ask.

Just for those also wondering about sizing. I am 5'11", 43" Chest, 36" waist and printing all sections at 100% fit just fine. You can see an image on my blog here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18820&pid=170310&st=20entry170310 If anything be mindful of the fit of the shins as these may need resizing for both length and width depending on your build.

Time will tell. If my ambient temperature gets above 65C I'm long dead anyway.

PLA

I have found PETG to be very temperamental. It requires a very high hot-end temperature and a very hot bed to avoid warping. I've avoided ABS because of the warping issues and it's also basically a nasty material for your health and for the environment.

I bought my Montana Gold for less that $10 per 400ml can. I've seen them outside of Switzerland for even less. Paint I've had colour matched for my Iron Man build cost me nearly $25 per can.

You will find it in the dropbox with the other files.

Good job your fault occurred. It looks like you started to print the V1 chest plate rather than the newer V2.

Try printing the vo-coder using Cura 3.0 with an ultra-fine setting 0.06mm layer height and a 0.4mm max nozzle. Will achieve the resolution you're looking for ...

Thanks man

I usually wear a 44 but I have a 43 in the Brecon and they fit perfectly.

Be wary of modifying an airsoft Stirling. You likely won't be able to troop with it. Great for a display prop though. Also, blasters are not required for 501st approval. The modifications listed above are for costume completeness and screen-used accuracy. But to answer your question, there isn't much that is right with that "E11". You would be better off buying the base blaster and adding the correct parts yourself. There are a number of good suppliers you can contact on the internet who are members of this and other 501st related forums.

Impressive. Most impressive.

You're a fast worker.

Check out my build thread. I'm elaborating more there.

Great work brother, but I'm going to urge you to change the centre chest section. That was te first change to the files that I made and spawned all the others I've done to my own build so far.

Pretty obvious those are rubber cast stunt props.

Another reason to build your own

Thanks for the compliments. Can't say that I am an expert on all of the E-11 configurations. I tend to pick a particular version of a screen used prop and try to emulate it. The wires connecting the power cylinders and hengstler were not always present on the prop blasters so it's become something of a personal preference. I don't really care for them. For more in-depth information you should probably head over to blaster-builders.