TK8271 Rogue Trooper

All 3 are acceptable as long as they are weathered to screen accuracy. Personally I weathered both the Sand and Havana colours and found it easier to weather and match the Havana, I can't speak for the elk.

To be honest I have no idea, drop Sean Fileds a message he can tell you

There is a few of them Toshi , This is one of the oldest ones and one I am part off and admin on it https://www.facebook.com/groups/shoretrooper/?ref=bookmarks However there is nothing we cant answer here and direct you correctly

Those files are from our very own Sean Fileds and the helemt is clearable and accepted.

I used a Matt clear varnish

The difference was spotted a while back by Stoo Collin's and others. I have simpley looked into it further by trying to match the actual buckle but no joy. I have found a lot of info on the modified versions and other civilian types , I have been seeing the buckles in my sleep lol. I think these could have been 3D modified by the Prop builders and then 3D printed to make the top buckle look different, as we know they did like to do that with Rogue One parts.

Hi everyone For your information There is a very slight difference between the shoulder buckle and the shin buckle. The buckle was identified as the Harley Buckle used on the Martin Baker ejection seats. There are 2 versions of this buckle that was used which date from the 60's to the present day. Version one is the unmodified version Version two is the modified version Unmodifed This is the modified buckle These buckles are identical to the buckles found on the shins. Now the shoulder buckle is slightly different So as you can see the difference are It has a closed pin bar The screw grove is filled in. The end lever bar is larger and the curve is different This will NOT be a clearance issue as the Harley Buckle is acceptable on the shoulders.

I can't see that being a problem as you will achieve the same look and your still using snaps.

Hi Joe Have you attached your TD, Pringle can and drop box too another piece of ABS like this If so , use heavy duty Velcro on the inside and attach to your belt. I just spent the whole weekend at Birmingham Comic Con and it never even felt like coming off, it got knocked , and I had arms around me for photos and had no issues at all mate, just make sure you used heavy duty Velcro

Christian You can bang on about Sand all day long , I don't mind ether way. Like I have said Sand may be or may not be the colour used. And the FACT is Orca Bay only started advertisieing them as Star Wars used in Dec after they caught on. The only time I will ever be convinced 100% that Sand was the ONLY colour used is when LFL/Disney have convfrimed it or someone who worked within that department confirms it. The FACT is I can put a pair of Havana, Elk or Sand that have been correctly weathered beside a screen pair and you could not tell the difference. You do make me chuckle as you bang on about being correct , when you won't weather your breeches just because the CRL does not say to. Seriously think about it , battered and weathered armourer , battered and weathered boots, but breeches are squeaky clean ?

Go for a good walk You can shoe polish , black and brown to give you a bit off darkness , and wire wool for scuff marks. If you want Sand on them, get some PVA glue and sparingly put it in areas that Sand would be trapped, then put Sand on the areas and it will stick.

Richard What we had here was the company suddenly running out of the Havana and investigated why. They only had sand left and added this to the sand colour This boot was worn in the recent Star Wars movie making it a very popular choice. Very clever wording without acuallualy naming the film or having it endorsed. Then when the Havana and elk came back into stock the same sentence appears now on them all. Very good marketing ploy but nether Sand , elk or Havana have been confirmed. With the right weathering they all work well so they are all acceptable with the correct weathering. I had a set of Sand and Havana and I personify like others thought Havana was the closest and easiest to weather to the look. But all are acceptable So according to the company they are all used PMSL , it's all about sales You can decide which one to go for , but none or 100% Lucas/Disney confirmed

Depends on what colour you have Jason

Welcome Melody And great choice of coustume I look forward to your build WIP in our ST section and please ask as many questions as you like and we will do our best to guide you correctly.

Hi Richard They are a Chelsea style boot , however they are missing some of the style and stitching we would recommmed. If you don't want to go for the Orca Bay, there are other options available that are a good match , like Imperial boots.

Underneath the torch in the rear barrel housing

To get this look First measure the strap from the side of your hip to a point on the left and cut the strap. Note in the below picture the strap is cut where the hand is. The strap is then fixed into place with a snap stud. DO NOT throw the spare strap away , you need this With the spare strap, attach it to the inside or outside of your side kidney armour by snap studs or glue and loop over the side With the ammo strap coming over the right side armour , I thought that the strap might come through the armour instead of coming over the top, so I spoke to a person who wore the screen used costume and he revelealed that's how some where done. Once done all you then have to do is buckle it up to your ammo pouch buckle , also make sure the strap goes past the black line recess Now you have the correct look and have the method they used with this costume

For your information I would encourage everyone that is building this costume to add these to your back armour , if you have not done so already :thumbsup: 1. Blue arrows , small rectangle raises 2. Red arrows, 2 small square holes and 1 small circle hole that can ether go all the way through or backed. When backed the cutouts are not shallow and must be deep enough to match the second below picture. NOTE this picture has been brightened to show the depth and the light grey is darker than shown 3. Green arrow , one long rectangle raise 4. Orange arrow, one circle raise 5. Yellow arrow , cutout recess 6. Black arrow , cutout recess 7. White arrows , 2 recess behind each rear strap housing When backed the circle and squares should match the picture which is approx 5mm deep. NOTE this picture has been brightened to show the depth and the light grey is darker than shown. close up of 2 x recess slots behind each rear strap housing Also some Prop builders have left out the top right hand side circle recess, so this should be added if missing hosting image

501st member Sean Chun Tie has made this stencil and is happy to share , it has now been updated https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx1wZrZy9OqSdFFOTXFqbm45elU/view?usp=sharing This update will now give this better fit and look. Print out then cut out the stencil Then place onto the plastezote and cut out Try on and adjust waist size by lengthing or shorting waist only where necessary , once happy place onto your foam and mark Then go back to the stencil and cut out the armour parts image hosting without registration Then cut out the ABS to armourer stencil shape and glue into the plastezote Then cut out your ABS sheets using stencil and stick to your foam Before painting use a heat gun to gentle heat up the ABS and bend the armourer so it goes around the thigh. Then paint and weather This will give you the correct look

Any time

The Rogue One E11 has slight differences to the older versions. The base used was a S&T Airsoft Sterling with mods , M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolt used. There is a version without the 3 support blocks , but you can see why they where added as the scope rail is bent picture upload sites

There are few different builders of the E22 blaster and you may have to make mods to these builds to ensure it is correct. So here is a few pointers. Screws used should be M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolt Stunt E22 A. 4 Panel rear butt Rear Allen screw positions imgurl Cheek adjuster (Does not need to work) C. Adjustable cheek pad (does not need to move) D. Rear but extension E. Rear rail scope block which is inside the rear sight F. Base body is S&T Airsoft Sterling upload img G. M38 1943 scope ( please be aware some makes are using the M38 1942 scope this is incorrect) image host H. Front scope rail block I. Front trigger housing J. M300a mini scout touch K. Rear fin barrel housing L. Double barrels M. Front fin barrel housing N. 1' Talon swivel with lug. (You will need 2 swivels and 3 lugs) The sling is 1' webbing strap with a silver metal 3 bar fixed buckle Sliver buckles can be found here http://www.gsproducts.co.uk/25mm-stainless-steel-3-bar-slide-webbing-buckle/ mag area The Hero version was a working S&T airsoft gun with mods. We can't use that but can get close by using the above and adding lights as below with working M300a torch. My Hero Version picture hosting

Hi Doug A lot of troopers have gone down the same route as the original , by cutting down the spine Then add material and a zip, so it is like a corset Then your back armourer plate covers that area and is hidden I personally used magnets to hold the back plate in place.

It's the type of foam