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TK8271 Rogue Trooper

501st Legion Member
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Everything posted by TK8271 Rogue Trooper

  1. What's the issue ? Is it simply down to the glue your are using ?
  2. I would suggest speaking with your GML , I can't see much of an issue , what we have said if the correct colours are not available in your country then the closest match is clearable.
  3. Yes mate , all connected to one 9v battery
  4. Hero E22 I ordered a E22 from 3dpropsnl as I wanted to add lights to the E22 and his build looked the best option to accommodate the lights. You can order the weapon in kit form , where you sand and fill the parts yourself and of course assemble and paint. Or you can have it come fully completed , with the completed method you can still take the weapon apart and add the lights. What you must bare in mind when ordering, is that a fully completed build can take 6-8 weeks from the day you order, so please discuss this with Eelco Sengers. Eelco has excellent communication and is always opened to improving his build and during my build he informed me he had adjusted it twice for more accuracy The weapon arrived and I must say I was very pleased Great work and quality There where a few little things that I did change like replacing a couple of screws and replacing them with the correct hex bolt. Eelco now knows about this and intends to do the same. I replaced the power cylinders as Eelco makes his with screws and for me it took away the accuracy of everything else. Eelco's version u Replaced with Mark Shearman's cylinders 3mm LED's into the 3 tubes on the counter Drilled 5mm holes into the rear barrel stock for 5mm led Once in place I added red Perspex as a cover Drilled out the underside of the cover plate to accosted the 3mm leds Put through the LED's and attached it to the underside plate And then screw back the plate All wiring runs down the inside of the barrel and is connected to a battery which sits inside the butt. I fitted Miniature switch that sits inside the cheek adjuster for ease of use. Once all put back together this is the result
  5. Just got confirmation from Glyn on the shoulder buckles They weren’t moulded from the buckle they were made in Zbrush, basing it on that original buckle….. then moulded out from the 3D print of the Zbrush model. So the top shoulder buckles are different to the shins with the shape as we noticed simply down to them changing them slightly with 3D print.
  6. Welcome Joshua Lots of hints and tips on the other WIP's , any questions post up and we will help
  7. I repainted my Anovos helmet as for me you could tell the shade difference , also the weathering was poor so I did it correctly
  8. If you look at the screen used ones , they are battered around those areas , so it's actually more screen accurate
  9. No , Sean has shared these for the community to use
  10. Yes I would say it is to light. Best solution is dye it darker.
  11. I have not used them myself , but have heard good things
  12. The leg buckles are non modified ejector seat buckles The shoulder buckles are modified ejector seat buckles
  13. I have Orca Bay , and dammmm they are comfortable
  14. All 3 colours are acceptable , as long as you weather the boots to screen used. Most people found that the Havana was the easiest to weather and match the screen used.
  15. Most shirts made ATM are of a great standard, the only thing that may or may not be added in for level 2 is that the neck seal and bib is seperate from the shirt, however as you can't tell the difference visually wether it's attached or seperate it has to be decided wether that info will be a level 2 or optional extra , most probs optional. What will be Level 2 is that is made from jersey weave and that the neck seal is dark/charcoal grey.
  16. A lot of guys went down this route , so it won't be an issue at all.
  17. I dont blame you I would have done the same
  18. Can you show some pictures please so the members can see the poor quality
  19. One of my things on my list to confirm was wether the neck seal was attached or seperate. I was given conflicting information so I asked Glyn Dillon and again he was fanstastic and answered. The neck seal is seperate with a bib
  20. All the vents are actually closed on the screen used. The CRL wording is currently being updated to include that the vents are closed So no need for a drill
  21. The long belt box set up We suspected that there was a slot on the belt box that held the longer one in place with strapping, as you can see in this picture below where the lower part of the drop box was snapped off Now that we have a still image from the film, we are lucky to see that one of the Troopers was missing the long part , but you can see where the slot is It is straight forward to get this correct look. 1. Cut a slot into the top part of the lower drop box 2. On the longer drop box , cut out the shape of the lower sized drop box area, so it can fit into it. Then glue webbing strapping and pass it through the slot on the drop box. Pull it up and glue to the back of the top drop box. When attached to the belt, this will give you the correct look and your longer drop box will have flexibility. Left side original, right side fan made
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