CatfoodRob

For level two you really should insist on the wtf armour . What's the point in forcing screen accuracy onto the hardly noticeable soft parts, then ignoring the main deal ...the armour shape . Likewise , it's time for a screen accurate armour class for RotJ biker scouts .

I'm pretty sure that's whatvthevstudio would have done ...

I used Velcro . It's one detail I don't think has ever come to light . The routing of the strap through the drop boxes is far more important ... it twists a half turn inside the front of the belt , and inside each drop box , holding the drop box in position.

Sounds good . Some details are super important for screen accuracy , but some aren't . ( I can't believe I just said that !!, ) and the difference between elastic sizes on the kneee is one of them lol... accurate sized knee armour is far far more important ;0)

The four bar version is a cut down rear helmet decal , the other combinations use car pinstripe , about 1/8

The doors at RS are open six days a week , call up any time and ask for Paul who will show you around and measure you up !

I'm guessing it's just a detail that's missed the c r l editors ? It should be half inch , but as it's almost invisible when worn, three quarters would probably do . As the knees move around a lot , Velcro is your friend for knee placement .

The main issue I see is still that cod piece. You need to think of it as a piece of armour , flat against your crotch , not tucked under . If you raise the bit that goes about your waist up an inch or more , that will lift the lowest edge up , so it doesn't tuck under so much . Also, the side drop boxes need to be an inch to inch and a half down from the belt , yours are too high . Keep up the good work .

The endcaps are super glued on ... brute force might get them off ! I modified mine before I glued on the endcaps , it was a prototype , the first cast out of the mould before they finalised how they were going to build the tube . To be honest I'm not sure what's inside the production tubes , but I'm guessing expanded foam . The lining inside the end caps ... I'll hunt out the photos , I'm sure the m.o.m. Photos on here show it . Im not looking forward to sewing ... lol !!!

Ok, I understand . On my own RS tube, I hollowed out the inside and pushed a piece of harder plastic tubing inside it , then made sure the screws holding the belt clips went into the inner tubing ...it's really strong , and has lasted many outings . ( I also fixed black foam between the tubing and the end caps as seen on the originals ... no idea why it's there ! ) Did you cut open your overalls to sew on the suede ? Or just stitch it over ... I can't see how to get the sewing machine to stitch the suede on , without cutting the legs open on the outside seam . I certainly take my hat off to,you if you sewed by hand !!

The cable you are wrapping yourvtube in is the wrong profile . The RS is a casting off a tube wrapped in the correct profile cable. Maybe just weathering orvrepainting the RS one will help ? Also the RS is light , a " real " tube wrapped with cable is heavy and might pull the belt down at the back . The belt clips RS use are the correct size ,and the correct spring steel ., I don't see your issue with them . , your boots look excelent ...how hard was it to cut the soles ? I've never tried with RS boots . But I need to copy your method .

What Jeff says is dead correct . No metric rivets were used , just imperial sizes 1/8 and 3/16 .

One of those crl oddities . You need a holster for basic but not a blaster to go in it ...and then for level two it asks for a blaster which has lenses which are not screen accurate . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The original blasters were just resin casts , no glass in the scopes . I thought glass lenses would prevent the blaster clearing for the 501 st ... but maybe I'm wrong . Worth thinking about for accuracys sake tjough .

As the real item is easy to obtain ( even though its seventy years old !!) and costs around twenty five bucks , I can't imagine why anyone would want to make one . Unless you can get correct 1940s webbing material, it will just look wrong I'm afraid . But if you want an exact pattern , google pattern 1937 on army historical sites .

It was painted on the movie suits ...so why not just paint it ? Decals just look wrong .

Yes, for screen accuracy make sure it's large , and in sand colour .

As we're obviously now intending to carry this bag at cons as visitors , not part of our costumes...and as everyday carry bags, which is very cool , here's an idea . I fixed a piece of one inch webbing through the two smaller one inch , unused, buckles to create a handle, so the bag can be carried by this handle when not using the shoulder strap . It's a super easy job and makes the bag even more useable in the real world. . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Spike, subscribe to the RS Propmasters YouTube channel . There are videos showing it . They are developing a helmet from these plaster safety moulds . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ive handled this plaster safety mould, so called because it was cast out of a helmet as a back up in case the original mould was damaged during production , as the rear halfs were . It has been over sharpened in places , but is excelent reference material . a similar safety plaster mould was made for several r.o.t.j. Helmets . Dont worry about missing the auction Constantin , it's now in safe hands . the safety moulds for the bousche helmet also recently came up or auction and are also in safe hands .

Mine Is 4 1/4 long and 1 wide .

One thing becomes obvious for my own bar , looking at the first photo I posted above, I'm pretty happy with my dimensions , but the overhang after the rivet / Chicago screw needs trimming down a couple of mm each end . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I used the red cover I took off the centre square as a spacer between each square ( I know they ain't square ..it's just easy to describe them that way ) . I believe this is what the production crew did , if you look at the photo of the girl opening the bag , you can see the rivets from behind, and the distance between the sewed on strap, and the rivets , is ever so slightly more than the width of the strap , making it over three inches between rivets . I don't personally believe they used a clear switch cover over the centre square , but again , until this bag ends up in a display/ exhibition some where , we will never know .

If you watch the movie, both, helmets with both numbers of bumps ( recesses) are seen . the original mould from which all scout helmets were formed , was made of wood ( called jelutong I believe , used to make moulds regularly in industry back in the day ) half way through helmet production one of the bits in between the recesses broke off ( if you have ever pulled vac formed plastic off a curved mould, you will know how violent and hard it is ) , this damage was repaired by simply using car filler to smooth over the damaged area . All helmets pulled after the repair ( like the RS one) have less recesses . There is no right or wrong number , both appear on screen and both are in the archive .