Bally

This. Look for a matching shirt and trousers that are the same 'make' so they dye evenly, and 100% cotton.

Great, thanks guys. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Did you spray it on the sponge and then sponge it onto the armour, or spray onto the armour and then dab it with the sponge?

Did a lot more soaking of the cams and all I can say is they're still showing up a lot lighter in the pictures than they are in person. The difference between the lighter and darker areas is actually not much at all. Susie managed to wrangle up a set of greeblies and straps for me which is awesome. Does anyone have any tips on getting the paint to stick to the belt?? My gloves also arrived Already started stripping them down and will pickup some craft foam on the way home today to use instead of the vinyl I have. This is the vinyl I have for the gauntlets. Again it looks darker in person and IMO looks quite like dark, weathered leather.

After the third brown soak and a black soak. Still looks darker in person than in the photos. Ordered a new pair of gloves yesterday too, thanks for the tip fellas . (http://www.ebay.com....RgMXgrFcA3g38yw) Now to start modding my boots...

I've been working on the electronics (arduino based) for this and a couple of Cmdrappo designed DC-15S while I plod along on my Kashyyyk Trooper build. My plan was originally to have a 10 segment blue led bar mounted on the rear side of the rear sight and have it count down as ammunition is used, similar to the DC-17M electronics some may have seen. However when I received them they were a bit smaller than I expected and I think they'd look a bit silly there, so I've carved out a hole in the rear side of the magazine for the led bar and will use a 9 pin serial port (same as the DC-17M I think) to provide power to the led bar and controller chip and also detect when the magazine is not on the weapon. I've also put 2.5mm magnets into the holes for them on the magazine and magazine port. Although I have the butt done in timber, now that I have my own printer I've split it into 3 pieces (for risk management in case it c%*ps out half way through the print) and am printing those.

I gave the two brown soaks a couple of days to set and rinsed them in cold water today. This is what it looked like when dry: I'm thinking about giving it another hit of brown before the black soak.

Thanks, that's exactly what I was getting at about the strap and the zip.

I found a custom made run on ebay which were being sold due to the order being cancelled. They were cheap but postage from the UK more than doubled the price. Not genuine cams but close enough and 100% cotton. As I said above, I should have just asked one of the former poms at work if they still had some. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

I assume the plan is to cut the strap off and the zip will be covered by the gauntlets. Is that right?

First round of dying done at work today (a solid 30 mins). I used a bin and did it in the showers for the hot water, following the directions as close as I could, including salt and detergent. (2 packets of Rit Dark Brown powder) They dried pretty quickly today so I made up a fresh batch of dye and did the second soak. I was so excited I forgot to take a picture of the dry first soak. This is mostly dry after the second. I tried to do the right thing and wet them again before the second soak (as per the instructions) but panicked a bit when a lot of the dye started coming out, which led to some shower cleaning. Is this about right prior to the black soak or is it worth another round of brown? Also I assume you actually wash or rinse these before you wear them. Do you find much dye comes out then?

Yeah Mr Bungle gave our new GCO his masters, but it won't be at least until the end of they year until he has time to clean them up and start pulling armour.

I have been slowly planning and putting this together for a year or so now but just realised I've never put a build thread up here.... not that there's actually been much progress. I started with some cams bought off ebay, before I realised I should have just hit-up the Brits who have laterally transferred over here at work. Our garrison seamstress MammaSith has just finished the work on them. For boots, after 6 months of indecision I've gone for the Westrooper Tactical Elite, one of only 2 sets of boots I could find with a natural arch in the sole. Even though the arch in the CGI boots are quite unrealistic, I should be able to get something in the ballpark. My plan is to cut and smooth some of the sole down and then use some beige adhesive I found to fill the grooves/pattern and do some shaping. I tried Selleys Liquid Nails on another pair of boots but it was still too soft when it sets. Recently I found some other stuff by the Monarch brand which sets hard, is still very flexible and sands well. Some testing on a set of my work boots: For pouches my original plan was foam. I tried 2 different types of foam and once covered they just looked shoddy and not like pouches, so after having another look at some screenshots I decided to try and 3D print them. Then they can also be used to store stuff. Having a good look at the screenshots available made it difficult, because being CGI the pouches don't actually exist so it's hard to judge what they're based on. I used the dimension templates from these forums and went for a neat, square look with most of the pouches. The grenade pouches seem to have a bit of a prominent seam on their edges though so I tried to build this into the print. This is what I have for the top front pouches and the grenade pouches so far. My plan is to use magnets recessed into the circular areas and hot glue material over them (the same material they're sitting on), then paint on the cam pattern. I'm also using a heat gun to do some warping to each individual pouch so they look a bit more natural (example on the right in the second picture). I do have a pair of cheap and crappy gloves I got for $5 on ebay (from when I was counting every cent) but now that money is a little less of an issue I'll look for some decent motorcycle gloves. Cummerbund is also being done by MammaSith. I've resigned myself to the fact it needs to be grey although I still really think the screenshots look khaki. Also, with 25+ years experience in the Army it makes no sense to me at all to have a grey cummerbund with camouflage armour. To me it looks like some sort of vertical MOLLE setup. Hard armour will be within our Garrison once the moulds are tidyied up and the vac-forming machine is fixed.

Oooooooo nice one. Now that I have the money they look a lot better than the crappy $5 ebay ones I originally got.

While you're here Grumpy, any chance I can get some dimensions off those. Overall size, line thickness, depth, etc. Even a picture with a ruler against them. They're on my list to design and 3D print so I can make an impression and cast them in rubber for my outfit.

I've been trying to find where these were first seen a while ago but can't find it. Anyway I'll stand corrected but the consensus at the time was 'no' they're not acceptable mainly due to the stitched greeblie not being accurate enough.

I think I'm geoblocked or something but from the split second I've seen of each, 1 or 3.

From the Kashyyyk Trooper CRL:

I have the same boots as your option 1 for work and was considering using them. I think they'd be workable as there's quite a bit of room to dremel out more in the arch and sand off the writing on the side of the sole. I looked at lots of boots though to try and find something that had a natural arch to the sole instead of having to try and make it work. I looked at the Herman Survivors Breaker Work boots for a long time, but they were a little too expensive to ship to Australia. They would have been very easy to modify though: So I've settled on the Westrooper Tactical Elite. Basically the same as what ferra has. I have the version without the zip but couldn't find a picture of it on their site so here's the zipped version for comparison. I'm wearing them in at the moment but intend modifying them heavily with this stuff to build smooth out the sides of the soles and fill in gaps: I've done some testing with it on another set of boots and it sets hard enough to sand but remains flexible. Edit: I was originally looking at using liquid nails to modify the boots but it stayed too soft. This is a comparison of the two used on the sole. I was mainly looking at this for making the two-tone sole on the Herman Survivors, one colour.

If it's what Grumpy said he's used, I THINK I remember him saying elsewhere he used Altama desert boots.

I did some more 2(pi)r on a length of PVC pipe for the barrel inner and had the expected issue with the difference between its outer diameter and the barrel section inner diameter. I came up with what I think is a pretty simple solution and printed some rings that fill the required gap and keep the pipes at the right diameters.

The muzzle was pretty much the last thing I needed to do. It was one of my first prints on my new machine in ABS and it's got a bit of delamination in some layers. It's not a biggie though because most of it will be concealed and I'll just use some sludge on what won't. Other than that, due to one crappy layer in the receiver which led to it splitting while I was sanding it, I'll probably end up reprinting it too. Just got to sort out the ABS warping first. I'm using small parts of the DC-15S to trouble-shoot this. As far as how much filament? It's hard to say because I changed suppliers part way through it and have had a few partial prints wasted along the way. Ballpark... About 1 kg or so.. But that's based on what's left of 3 different spools.

To be quite honest this was my intention at the start but it's taken so long I just want to get the thing together right now. Because of the complexity of the thing it would end up needing to be a hybrid anyway. The main barrel parts you could assemble and rotocast so it's hollow. Same with the butt. The receiver and pistolgrip would be pretty difficult if not impossible to cast from what I can see, due to the number of hollow areas, 'through and through' sections and the way it's designed for a moveable trigger and possibly electronics. So you'd probably end up having to print them as required. I've printed the last pieces of this now and have started printing a DC-15S, but in ABS instead of PLA. I'm having the standard ABS warping issues at the moment though.

It's been a while but there has been SOME progress. I started printing parts again earlier this year and had gotten most of it done before the kybosh was put on it again. The barrel segments are a lot of printing so as an alternative I'm using PVC pipe. The only issue is none have the exact outer-diameter I need, so I did some 2(pi)r and cut out a section of a larger pipe and am going to use this as the remainder of the barrel. This in turn creates it's own problems of fitting the subsequent barrel inner/insert into the receiver and the barrel but I'm hoping some expanding filler will be my saviour. I've also ordered my own 3D printer so I'll be able to print the last couple of parts I need, e.g.- muzzle. (I didn't have the timber butt with me for the photos, and sorry the lighting in this crappy room is pretty bad). Obviously I still have a lot of sanding to do, but other than that the parts match up like a big lego scene. Â

No worries thanks mate