khazara

I suggest getting a refund on those items and acquiring your helmet & boots elsewhere. There are several sources documented elsewhere on these boards where you will not have to wait like you have. I got my helmet from Spike and my boots from Marcel, both who I would recommend, but there are other sources as well.

Ooh what are those rivet covers!?

Here's an example for justification: we raised almost $2000 for Children's Miracle Network in just 4 hours this past weekend. Feels fantastic 😃

I followed Pandatrooper's method and I love it. I'm sure that it's not going to separate, it's darn secure!

And the helmet bags are 20% off til 5/21, I believe.

I like the weathering a lot. I'm guessing it's the rattle-can-from-a distance method?

I'm thinking of following your lead, Mickey, and starting an ART for Imperial Sands Garrison (San Diego). I believe there about 5 of us scouts that troop regularly and I'd like to raise the standards of old build approvals, help people with improvements, welcome new members, and guide new builds. I just have to finish my remaining Lancer requirements and finally get Lancer approved first.

I just added a little white craft foam into my holster to make the blaster fit in snug.

congrats and welcome to the Pathfinders, Retrofire!!

Looking good! The only things that I notice are very minor in my opinion: - your forearm pieces are overlapping your gloves considerably more than i normally see. One thing I've found with actively trooping, and from recommendations presented in these forums, is to add Velcro to the suit itself and inside the armor pieces, to stop from slipping down. While this won't affect your approval, it is VERY helpful in keeping the armor pieces positioned while wearing. This can always be a later adjustment. I did this to the knees, elbow and forearm pieces. - bottom of the pouches should be parallel to the belt, in your front view they are askew. Again this probably won't affect approval but might be an easy adjustment depending on how your pouches are attached. Mine are held by Velcro inside the chest armor. Looking good!!! Edit: I just noticed your left-side dropbox strap, on the rear, is twisted.

You're welcome, glad you got a clear ruling on it! Best of luck with the build :-)

Your reference pic is definitely not grey - but the CRL is what's used for approval. I would suggest reaching out to the GML who will be approving your outfit and get his/her advice, as that's who you're going to have to get approval from. Include your reference pics and the source of the references. That'll save you some headache by getting it cleared up front instead of having to make changes after you're done.

I believe this is what I used. Tandy Leather have a lot of locations, hopefully there's one near you! https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/super-softy-garment-pigskin-suede-split

I recommend going with the Pathfinder CRL. I finished my scout a year ago and painted the rivet. Yes use elastic for the T strapping to your shoulder bells with Velcro on the ends. Works great! The vacuum hose looks to be perfect in size and colour.

That's a good lookin' scoutfit! The ridged tubular part of the thermal detonator is supposed to be grey, but it looks like an off-white colour in your pics. According to the CRL: "attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular thermal detonator box with short grey corrugated hose" Also, this won't affect approval, but for comfort you might want to think about using a balaclava that doesn't cover your nose and mouth, so that you can breathe easily. Scout helmets get more air than many other helmets, but I sure wouldn't want my mouth & nose covered.

I used craft foam to line the inside of my pouches, a suggestion I read in a previous post somewhere here on the boards. Like this: http://www.michaels.com/creatology-foam-sheet-12x18/M10597609.html My icomm/aker goes in one pouch and the other I use for my phone, business/trading cards and anything else that I may need to put in there during a troop.

Interested. Any problems with feedback due to speaker and mic being that close together, especially when the volume turned up and in noisier environments?

I was the same. I'm 6' tall but slim, and had to get the 38 tall otherwise it was too tight between the shoulders and crotch.

I tried a throat mic but found it activated the static burst on the icomm too easily. Went back to the boom mic. I purchased my icomm and Aker amp from a 501st member at voicebooster.com

Try searching the forums for Mandarin or Mandarin Collar, and you should see various examples in people's build threads. That's what I did when I made mine earlier this year and it was great to see how others had handled it.

Although just threading it through is apparently screen accurate, I sewed each strap and made the clips functional as this really is the purpose of the clips.

I used the accurate hardhat liner with bolts that I believe a member is still selling in the for sale forum.

Mine was closer to $2k. With $600 armor, $300 helmet, and $100 blaster that's a grand right there. Add $100 flakvest, $200 boots, bund/pouches it starts adding up.

I wear shorts and a t shirt. I found wicking material actually transfers more sweat into the suit/bund/flakvest so I switched to cotton. This allows me to get more troops out of the gear without having to wash it after each troop. I definitely febreze and air it out every time though.

A rivet is needed for basic clearance on the tank topper and tank bottom, plus four rivets to attach the blaster holster to the boot. For additional accuracy and Lancer requirements rivets are also used to attach additional, smaller Elastic to the tops of the knees and these ones are painted white. Make sure your rivets are long enough! I had to redo my boot due to this error on my part. Be sure to check out the CRL for additional info!