EnigmaEngine

I put my armor on simply by pulling it over my head and putting my arms through like a shirt. Mildly awkward, easier if I have a helper to make sure the bottom edge of the backplate gets over the top edge of my bund.

Can't even tell it was there. Nice!

They both look approvable and fine. I'd go with the first ones just because they're a bit cheaper and the seller has a higher number of feedback, but it's a small difference.

Can't answer all of these, but! Since the only part of a donor boot visible is the sole, that's typically what makes the difference. I know Lancer requires a solid color tone and a certain amount of cutting to make the sole the same shape as the ones in the movie. Otherwise...tan work boot is approvable. I got my gloves from the trade section of these forums. I know Darth Voorhees recently found what might be an inexpensive option. As for KS, that's kind of typical. You can try finding and messaging them on Facebook. Apparently some people have had better luck that way. Sometimes they're relatively quick and reliable, others....unfortunately it doesn't seem terribly consistent. I didn't end up ordering from them, but they were quick to reply to my email.

While I can't say I've applied decals to a helmet, I assume it works just like the 501st ones I've applied to my car. Make sure the surface is clean and dry. Apply the decal with the paper backing, smoothing it flat. Leave it on, backing and all, for 12-24 hours. Slowly peel off the backing; the decal should remain in place.

You'll also want some washers to fit the rivets...in both cases, the rivets should be the same width as the holes you drill (I used 1/8 inch or 3mm diameter, which I think is standard). Length just depends on how much material you need them to go through. Again, 1/8" worked for most of my attachments, but in a couple places I did end up using 1/4" long to get through multiple layers of fabric and plastic. If you have a rivet not pull through correctly, or forget to use a washer or something like that (which I did) you can drill through the center of them with the same size drill bit, and they'll come out. takes some patience but it means a mistake isn't permanent! Remember to use a washer. Seriously. Especially with the fabric for webbing and attaching the holster to your boot. A rivet alone will pull right through the material. Learned this the hard way. ...I admit I copy/pasted all this from an answer I gave in another thread, but it's useful information here!

Nice. And yeah, check build threads, ask questions....that's why we're here!

Some common tweaks to the SC kit are a better material for the back of the belt (I'm huge and needed more material anyway, was lucky enough to have a family member who could construct one for me out of white canvas), and possibly a stronger/more secure option for the clips that hold the thermal detonator on. Neither is by any means a requirement....just things I've seen done for a more secure or better-looking build. Go over other build threads like a madman, and you'll pick up all kinds of little tricks or things that might give you your own ideas.

Welcome to the BSN, Michael!

What the gentleman up there said. There's plenty to work on the armor that isn't going to really change with 20 lbs of weight loss. Put your tank together and attach it, assemble the front of the belt (might want to hold off on cutting/fitting the back closure for size around your waist), trim corners and smooth edges. Most of it is held with elastic anyway.

I'm so jelly you could spread me on a sammich. I need a rifle, dangit....or just a pair of binocs so I can play spotter.

I do, and they're fine.

Do it! Blast the force out of that ewo-....I mean, yeah! Submit to your GML and join us! Or both. Why not both?

PandaTrooper has a wonderful build thread up with tips for trimming SC armor to fit a smaller frame. It would probably work on any ABS plastic armor kit.

Knowing that you came out of it alright makes me feel secure in joking about it. All I can think from that description is "Everyone thought I was dead, so they wheeled me into the children's cancer ward." "Hey kids, wanna see a dead body?"

Parts for a Judge Dredd armor build. Note the "Mega-City One Justice Department" decal.

Much better!

Unless Scouts are shown with something more/different in one of the new canon series (Episode VII - IX, or the Rebels animated series), it's unlikely anything other than the holdout will be on the CRL. That said, since it only really matters at more "official" troops or ones where strict movie weapons are requested, anything your GML gives the okay on should be fine at most events. I've been carrying an E-11, while I work on one day having a DLT-19 made.

Now begins the tweaking and adjustments. Then the cleaning and minor repairs from trooping in it. ...oh sweet Palpatine, it's never actually done... But you've taken your first....something....larger universe...

Generally the modifications are for fit (more elastic/velcro for bigger people, trimming plastic for smaller ones, better material for belt fabric/det clips). The armor itself doesn't inherently need changes for approval. Pretty much just rounding corners and sanding edges to keep it from catching on fabric underneath or poking you.

You can check this out. NegativeEleven had good things to say about them. http://www.scoutgloves.com I got mine from someone who had a thread in the trade section here; unsure if they're still active, but it's worth looking through there.

Congratulations!

Pretty much that. It shouldn't be a second skin, but it should look fitted. Shouldn't have loose, baggy rolls coming off it. Just take a look at people's build pictures and the comments they got on them; it'll give you a good visual idea.

I would avoid them. http://thefordreport.com/2012/11/concerning-cushman-custom-creations/

I also have some hope for Scouts in the Rebels animated series coming out.