NegativeEleven

Not sure. I did a pretty bad job attaching the sleeves on the shirt I made with this fabric. I ended up getting a $10 women's sweater from Walmart that had much more defined ribs. Of course I never tried for approval, so I can't speak to the results of either. I put the whole thing on and found the lack of mobility compared to my biker scout very frustrating. Ended up selling everything but the helmet last year.

I bought this to use on mine. Amazon link ... but don't rely on me for approval. I got the suit near completion then sold it because it was too uncomfortable to wear compared to my Biker Scout. It was comparable in color to the boots I had bought and the pants I made from a pair of XXL scrubs. It's a good bit darker than my ammo pouch, but those can vary anyway. And I know I painted that shoulder wrong, you don't need to point it out.

I understand when you have a 3d printer, that is your go-to for everything, but that's a common scope ring. You can get a pair of them at Walmart, actually metal ones, for like $10

I can still cast mine. My sale thread is up in the trade section. Been making them for 9 years now.

I cast resin holdout blasters. Mine are based on the '83 Kenner, which is about 10% bigger. Still fits the holster fine.

I've got a roll of Neoprene for the chest and back - assuming I go back to finish this build, since I haven't touched it since my first test fit in August. I actually used leather for the hips. The eva craft foam seemed too prone to tearing. I had scraps of leather that were big enough to cover gaps between the big plates and held paint better than the foam. I think that's much more durable than foam, although I agree that Neoprene would hold up well, I just don't think it looks right when painted.

They aren't ranked, but you can use the list to better search forum posts for members' reviews.

Don't know how your GML will be, but I had to keep adjusting length of vest sleeves to get approved. I see yours are showing slightly different lengths under the shoulder bell. Should be about half an inch, and try to make both sides the same.

Yeah, I just meant that you should wait and report on your experience before expecting to see it added to the list above. There's a lot of people out there who buy 3D printers and immediately decide to be a vendor using other people's files to create poor quality stuff. Ebay and Etsy are flooded with them. It's a good idea to ask around before ordering something from a vendor that only does 3D prints. In my opinion, a quality prop builder is going to finish a 3D print and use that to make molds for resin casting, because it is much faster to pour resin than to print and finish (sand, trip, etc) each individual piece. It makes more sense (if making more than one of each) and takes a bit of experience beyond "I bought a printer" to do it that way, so it kind of implies someone who's been at it longer. Of course, you can find bad vendors of all types, but just something I look for.

This thread is for vetted sellers. Don't share unless you've had a good experience buying from them.

It's neither. You got it looped thru correctly on the top left buckle, but flip it over (which would make the bottom half wrong). Strap goes on top of the outermost plastic rung.

Yeah, SC includes everything you need to get it wearable (or he did when I got mine in 2013), but confirm elastic sizes and strapping with the CRL if you want a smooth approval process. You bought canvas to make your vest, over Dickies coveralls? You should look for the tutorial over in "soft parts" on making the vest from a t-shirt with fake velcro closure. It's much easier to put on without help and it will be cooler. I recently replaced my coveralls with a military flight suit. It took a bit more work to remove zippers and add flaps over the neck, but it's much lighter material. Adding layers of thick material gets hot fast. Also, glad to hear it seems everyone got that webbing (product of vac-forming sometimes) on their belt. I got approved with SC's old 3-piece belt, but upgraded when I found out he was offering it as one piece. The new one had a couple of those webs between boxes, but it's not noticeable when wearing it.

You just look like you have more "black" above the bund than armor will cover. Again, you did a great job sewing and yeah, level 2 does require pouches attached to bund. I prefer my costume wearable to accurate. 😁 Putting a voice amp in the pouch complicates things.

I don't get on here often, and hate to make a negative comment, but are you worried the cummerbund is too short? Scouts often have trouble with the bund slipping low and "black" showing between chest armor and bund. Some scouts correct this by making a cummerbund taller, almost to the armpits. I have always hung pouches from the armor. I briefly tried pouches sewn to the bund, but the weight of a voice amp in one pouch pulls the whole thing down. I hope you don't find you need to completely redo it once you've got chest armor to work with. Good luck.

Looks like size is gonna be fine. Got minimal velcro on now for placement.

Looking at the pics that BikerScout007 added to the CRL this year, these shins should work. I'm adding all the velcro and chopping a couple of ribs off each of the large straps. I'm putting screws thru the shin, thru the strap and into the big buckles. That should ensure that one side is locked in place and the velcro around will line up from there. Still not psyched about just velcro holding the heavy resin fronts in place. Might need to engineer some kind of hook, or something to hold that weight and make sure they're placed centered cause while looking down at my own legs, it might be hard to tell.

So, I sort of hit pause on this when I got a full time job in January. Since I last posted, I got some shins, the knee plate, straps, and trimmed/painted the resin buckles that came with my kit. Now I am worried that these shins won't work. They are TK shins, and after trooping with an approved Din Djarin (the Mandalorian), I see that the shins I should be using are much bigger, right?

Or www.tandyleather.com so Amazon doesn't take a cut of their sales. They have physical stores too.

Joann's has faux suede or Tandy Leather for real suede

Cool. Thanks. I'm gonna hit up my armorer for another knee plate. The sides of this one definitely look like they're too long.

Guess I'm waiting for someone to tell me whether the diamond knee plate is usable or if I should be looking for another. Is this plate attached to the wraparound shin armored or the resin front/strap assembly? Also, I have skimmed other WIPs, but haven't seen a good breakdown of how the fronts attach to the main shin armor. I see velcro under straps, but obviously there's some attachment on the front, something to force the fronts to stay in place if they are removed for storage

I have a KS helmet with SC armor. If his helmet is anything like his armor, you probably won't have to cut anything. SC sends stuff nearly ready to assemble. It should just be gluing the 2 face pieces and 2 dome pieces then drilling bolt holes thru both parts.

I figured it would be easier to just modify a pair of brown 2XL scrubs. I traced front/back of my officer pants onto them, split the outer seam then pinned on the traced lines, turned inside out and resewed the seams. Had to do a little magic with elastic to the waist to fit me once it was put back together and added a fake flap to hide nonexistent zipper/button.

Trimming down the big triangle things and trying to decide if this knee plate is usable. For the stormtrooper knee plate, it was a real bad vac-form pull. Clearly overheated, bad texture all over and the raised squares were real soft. I fixed most of that, but still have issues. The sides are way too long, and it needs to open up a bunch. I riveted a hinge (backed with sintra for strength) to put the 2 halves of calves together. I figure the straps are gonna do most of the work to hold them together and the front pieces will hide seams completely.