Mandalorean

I believe 7 stitch lines are still clearable but should be 6 to be accurate.

Also should be 6 vertical stitch lines on the 'bund between the pouches, not 7.

Chef is the chap you need

I found Tamiya model tape is also good enough to be used with a brush and a model enamel. Though, tbh, I just eyeball the curve.

Congrats Chap

But, if you make the first part so it means all the other parts associated to it are in the wrong place; you should go back and adjust or make that first made part again.

I cut the brow of the headband and made it smaller so the bolt holes lined up. Then simply stapled the brow back together and re wraped the foam around it. I also trimmed a bit of the over head adjustable strap so that could be made smaller too. Worked in both my LW and Chef buckets. Andy

Yup 40mm for straps and 40mm black clips front and rear. This would also be the width for a basic TB Andy

Congrats

Congrats chap

I make mine from a nylon based material for the sheen. Here's my latest... But, yes, different material to the pouches.

You can send that to me if you like Rob....

This is why you need good spotters

Lexan scissors are great for thin plastic but when you want to cut anything over about 2mm thick they will start to slip. Thats's when the dremel comes in. In direct answer to your question though.... get both curved and straight. I have used my curved pair more thgough. Andy

Congrats Chap

Congrats chap.

Congrats chap.

Hope it's ok to jump in here. The rear drop box straps should really attach to the belt closer to each other behind the white box of the TD. Also the left side rear drop box strap is twisted. (I'm sure you noticed that though) Andy

Those look pretty much bang on IMO..

Yup, no mesh is the way to go. Also you only need to paint the insides of the ears black (or put in some sticky backed vinyl) if you don't want to paint the whole of the inside.

Shhhhhhhhhh...

By the look of this image, from the EFX page I believe, there was a notch as part of the original vac-form buck. Though maybe not in exactly the same place.

I need to make an effort to finish mine. Just need to find some room to start the painting...

I don't find the glue on sticky velcro strong enough, even the industrial strength stuff. I find using non sticky backed, sew-on velcro glued on with E6000 to be the best solution. To stop the knee slipping I would sew a square of velcro onto the knee of your suit and glue in the other side into the armour using E6000.

From what I can see, I think the neck seal was made and added to the Scout during shooting of the blue screen close ups. I reckon the neck seal was not part of the costume during location shooting in the Red Wood forests. I think that when they started shooting close ups in the studio it was decided to add a neck-seal to help hide the collar and zips of the under-suit. From what I can see only mid to long shots of the Scout were shot on location. Ergo, IMO, it could be deemed part of a 'hero' costume whereas the on location suits as 'stunts'. It is my own opinion that the costumes were designed to hide all familiar methods of putting on clothes; hiding zips, buckles and laces as much as possible.