Centuri

ok, had a break from this to work on other parts, but heres photos of the interior completed. I didnt take any in progress pics as this was very much 'work it out as I go'. feel free to ask any questions though. know there has been alot of discusion here about the chin cup, using magnets, and padding for the helmet so hopefully this helps others. Helmet padding i ordered Team Wendy's Zap pads. really comfy and you can position them how you want, my only concern is the top round pad makes the helmet sit quite high so depending on how it looks with the rest of my kit on, I might take that one out and replace with something thinner. Magnet placement on the side of the helmet, i found that the lower it was positioned the better the fit. the elastic strapping for the chin cup ends up covering the magnet, but the hold is still strong enough with this in between and it gives the magnets a little protection. i made a little housing for the magnet out of 3mm ABS sheet for more glueable surface area. for the magnets on the inside of the faceplate, i had to grind the fibreglass back a little so that it fit ok, the elastic between makes it quite tight. I glued using a 2 part epoxy glue.

Hi Shane, firstly welcome to the BSN forums when you say resin - do you mean fibreglass? maybe if you know the maker of can post a picture of the kit, that will help us understand what you are working with so we can answer your question better.

you could have one side in fabric, and the other side plastic. that way, youre at least 1/2 right

all sewn and glued, here are some pics. just need to add the holster and I'm done!

Silverboyd, I think your dog bone is upside down? my understanding is the curved part faces down toward the toe.

cheers Marcel, I always try and overcomplicate things if i can

I mocked it up with 2 layers and it didn't seem to help, if you are to add something to stiffen it you'll need something a bit more rigid than the vinyl i think. I would say gluing the layers together will likely help, but for now i am just going with the standard single layer.

I am considering 2 layers of vinyl to stiffen the upper part of the boot, has anyone done this before? thoughts?

lots of test fitting and additional trimming to get the neck of the boot right. and heres a mock up and test fit with the dog bone.

toe vinyl all stretched, and added some vinyl to fill in the gap between the toe and lace holes. Thanks again for the tip, Jaycee! and the Glueing begins... couldnt resist this photo toes are all done!

ok got my Mojo back. here are some pics of the eylets being removed. Jaycee mentioned in another thread that its a good idea removing these as they are quite low in the boot and you can see them when you stretch the toe vinyl. Thanks for the Tip Jayce! I removed the first 4 pairs of eylets. I found the easiest way is to drill into the top of them with a slightly bigger bit than the hole. then you can use a pair of plyers to wrench off the top part, then the rest just pops out.

progress! finished the soles and now onto stretching the vinyl. I used a hairdryer to heat it and stretch. had a few months off this project.

Hi Dennis, i've done some sets of custom decals to fit the MLC helmet. PM me if you are keen on a set.

hi matt, havemnt done much more unfortunately, busy with other things - should be back into it soon

Yes i did. I masked it off first, but even with the masking tape it leaked a little and ended up using a blade to clean up the lines.

finished cutting one boot! this takes alot of work! still a way to go but the next one should be alot easier, as i have now refined my technique and can mark up the second buy placing them sole to sole. heres a comparison shot:

because everyone sources a different boot to use as a base, there is no template that i am aware of. just keep referring to the photos of the screen used boots when drawing out your cut lines, and be sure you have them where you want before you cut. oh and watch your fingers...

what kinda Glue are you using Jase?

Decals all applied. I re-painted the snout and helmet bolt covers to match the grey of the decals better. aerator painted black, so thats the helmet exterior all completed!

thanks guys. I was a bit worried the grey may be too dark. I have seen some snouts painted a very light grey.

Snout painted: what do you think of this grey? it is Tamiya Haze Grey.

hi erik, I went to a shop who had already done a couple of local members helmets, cost $100 NZ (about $80 US) and took about a week. I figured thats a pretty fair price considering i probably would have spent $20-30 on paint, sandpaper etc and the time to prep and paint it myself.

Thanks for the positive feedback! I recieved my helmet back from the paint shop today. I took it to a bumper repair shop and left them with a pice of my armour to match the colour. they did a great job! I also shaped and trimmed the visor lens i used 3mm tinted acrylic. Here are some more progress photos: The lens shaped and then trimmed to fit: And the Helmet so far, painted and visor lens in place:

I just used a sharp craft knife and a hobby knife. tried posting a pic but somethings not working tonight once more with feeling:

I started my boots this week, using the Lugz boots that have been discussed previously here. These are the same as Jaycee is using - thanks for the head up Jase! http://www.ebay.com....=item89634bec0d I started on the inside of the boot - just in case i stuffed it up. One thing i can reccomend to new players - use a sharp knife! it definitly makes thigs easier. I have also tried to replicate the 3 shallow indents at the front of the boot, cutting these is a challenge! as always - critique appreciated Marked up for cutting: Before and after comparison: