Chef

Well, I'm different and use option 2. This way I can swap my belt out between the standard scout and the snowie.

Yeah, just have a look at the boot tutorial and read it through a couple of times. It is actually pretty fool proof. Just take your time, measure twice... cut once. You'll save yourself a stack of cash. Base boots will be about $20-30 and a metre of vinyl will be about $10. Some glue, a few push pins, some velcro and a stack of time and you'll be golden. The hardest part is getting the toecap bit stretched. But just take it steady and it'll all come good. It's the one bit of the scout that I try to get everyone to just have a go at. You'll surprise yourself, and then you'll have the confidence to just try the rest.

I don't believe so... Like you say, the devil is in the detail. The recent update to the standard Scout CRL pushed the two much closer together, so there probably isn't a lot the untrained eye would notice. So it will be things like the correct size webbing straps and the correct materials such as real suede patches (over faux suede), cotton webbing on the drop boxes and the general fit and finish of the suit that will determine Lancer status over basic Pathfinder. If you're aiming for Lancer, then start off heading in that direction right from the beginning. Don't try to do it all after getting basic clearance because you'll just double your workload.

As above... The extra work involved in getting to Lancer is actually pretty small when you're initially building it. It's just a question of keeping an eye on the detail, and using the correct materials. Retrofitting those bits afterwards, can be a real dog. Hence considerably more work. Aim for Lancer from the get go. Much simpler.

Yeah, bit much for me.... You have to think where things would weather naturally. Knees, Boots, recesses etc. You can make a serious contrast on your weathering by just rubbing over the high spots to take some of the weathering off..... IF you want to that is. It's your costume after all and if you like it. you keep it.

Well, it's currently Garrison (501st) cleared, but having seen it in the flesh and monitored it's build progress, I'm confident that Andrew could submit it for Lancer and get it passed with little or no modification. It's a very good build.

I just use a primer grey on mine, it seems to match it quite nicely with the trooperbay decals.

I know what you're saying... but look here. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&image=347 You can see under the helmet (ish), you can see the top of the neck sock, you can clearly see something skin coloured... (bottom of the chin/neck area), but you can't see any white chin cup. And at no other point in the film do you see one. What I am getting at here, is not that people shouldn't have one.... but if it can't be seen, why is there a requirement for it?

BJ, You have hit the nail on the head. I've long seen the review on Jez's site. It's the SCREEN evidence of it's usage I'm after. The point being, on everyone who I see with a chin cup, they are blindingly obvious from all angles when worn. Because they drop down past the lid. I've never seen it in the film.

Is that a Fibreglass or Plastic set Jorge? Looks like a fine set of Studio Creations stuff.

Just a query.... Can someone provide me with a MOVIE SCREEN GRAB of the chin cup being used please? I don't want any other reference material, just a screen grab from the film. Or a rough time frame, so I can search the online archive. Many thanks Rob.

Jeff.... Hopefully here's a picture to explain what I mean... The bit at the back, is a bit deeper and the return edge is pretty big. Not a massive difference from where you are, so shouldn't be much altering to do.

Don't worry about the gap too much there Daniel. Try to get the halves to match up in shape as best you can. Don't panic if they're not too good at this stage. When it's as good as it is going to get, tape them together as you have done, and then glue in strips of plastic into the underside. to secure it together. For the curves, I heat up a strip with the heat gun and get it floppy, then when it's ready to go, press it into the curve (wear gloves unless you've got asbestos fire proof fingers...). Again, glue these in place. You'll then need to fill the gap. Chamfer the edges of the gap outwards, to give your filler something to bite to. Then fill the gap with a decent automotive body filler, which ever is available in your country. Fill, sand, fill, sand until this is smooth. I have recently had a nightmare with the ABS paste method, where when exposed to direct sunlight / heat the paste softened and blistered, destroying the integrity of that part. So I no longer advise using this method. When filling the area, don't just pay attention to the gap, but treat the whole flat surface as the bit to fill and get level. Otherwise you'll end up with ridges in the final product, which will look rubbish. That should be enough to keep you going for a bit. Hit me up on FaceBook.... I'll pm you the details. I've got stacks of pictures in there.

Looking good Jeff. I'd have said make the back part a bit deeper. I'll try and get some pics to explain when I've got five minutes free...

Try the bay. a local plastic supplier. Or give your armour supplier a bit an email. no doubt they'll have gazillions of it lying around.

That's one hell of a neat join line there Vic. Looking real smooth.

Jet, you need to speak to Ian/Kathy Maginn (nai-retep) or (cider queen) or Jules. They are the smallest scouts I know (apart from Andy... hehehehe).

+4

Pretty swish there bud.

Aye, looks like Recast SC armour, or an amalgamation of parts. I'd go elsewhere unless you are really strapped for cash.

Well, they are SA Gloves, so he's got to put his slice on top!

Between the two, I'd have SC every time. Jeff's stuff is good and the man himself is top notch.

Some more shots of the latest one. It's a bit of a complex build, but the end result is quite satisfying. I'm currently updating my Storm Commando lid too... Also comes in black! hehehehe. Then onto the Swampy and Forest Troopers!

it is... Apparently according to the Wiki... pressure sensitive grip.

You know how these things are.... You look at stuff and see little changes to be made. And so it goes with my knee-plates. The old ones. So I've tightened up the indent details and deepened the grooves fractionally, but the main part of the update is to curve the front plate ever so slightly. Having stared at the MotM exhibit for far too long.... it was time. Here's the original knee. Here's my updated version. (it's in Silver... just because that's what I had lying about...). All comments/criticisms welcome... A fresh pair of eyes is always a good thing.