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On behalf of Pathfinders Command, I would like to wish you all a Happy and Safe New Year! Compared to 2023, 2024 was a quiet year for our Detachment. But 2025 promises to be another big year for the Pathfinders, as we have both the 20th Anniversary of the Kashyyyk Trooper and the 25th Anniversary of the Detachment! In April will be Celebration Japan and following that the second season of "Andor", which hopefully has some more love for both Shores and Scouts! But for now, enjoy your time with family and friends! Pathfinders Lead the Way in 2025!

Hi Scouts, I wont be suppling the Alt Scout helmet after October this year. Health reason mainly. So if you want an ALT for trooping or to collect now is the time to order. PM me for more information cheers for now Happy New Year!!

On behalf of Pathfinders Command, it is my pleasure to induct Z "Bikrtrash" Zinser (TB-32173) into the Pathfinders Hall of Fame as a Lancer Scout Trooper for the "TB - Scout Trooper - ROTJ" CRL! Great job, @Bikrtrash ! You have been sent a Certificate of Achievement to your email on file and your picture will be added to the Pathfinders Hall of Fame. Check out TB-32173's application here:

That is generally not necessary.

I was able to do alot of work on our biker scouts today. Now I'm covered in white abs dust. I cut out the holes for the thermal detonator tubes and sanded the edges. I cut and sanded the detonator caps. I cut the strap holes on our knees, upper arms, and fore arms. Still more to do but 1 day at a time.

Eyeballing it, but I'd put the flap at about here, in green. For basic clearance, I'd hold off on surgery on the front riding patches, depending on GML preference.

Posting here instead of on your WIP, sorry about that 😬 For reference this is my jacket that I had made and the bottom half is made of breathable mesh material and has wicking material inside.

I'm very sorry to hear that. Thank you for letting us know. We'll do our best to make people aware of the issue.

Looking good! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good weather yesterday. Manage to prime. Not good weather today so I sand them smooth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To quote a favorite king of another franchise: "So it begins!" I still was in the process of gathering the parts. And I have to say getting PVC pipes in inch in germany is a pain in the a*... 😅 You get tons of steel, aluminum and other heavy material but no PVS pipes... Finally I got my hands on a 1 1/4 inch pipe for a pool and 3/8 inch transparent pipe. For the extending part I was thinking about using magnets to keep the parts extended or retracted but I couldn't find fitting ring magnets so I will stick with @RickyBoyBlue version with velcro. I hope this will work. One positive benefit of the 1 1/4 inch pipe is the thread on the end of the pipe. Because I want to add eletronics to the baton this is the perfect way to get access to eletronics. I printed a 1 1/4 inch thread which fitted almost perfectly into the end cap.

You might be able to get the velcro moved over to give you a bit more room. Otherwise, you will need a new bund.

The lower edge of the butt flap should approximately be at the green line.

For the leg flare you noted: Add some 3/4” strapping to your flight suit across the opening of your foot to create a stirrup under the arch of your foot. That way the legs of the flight suit are pulled taunt when you put them on and they won’t ride up when you put on the boots. The butt flap should be shortened, but wait for @Chopper to tell you how much. Also, Chopper, what are your thoughts on the front patches? The front patches have hard corners, and I know GMLs tend to look for more rounded corners to match the CRL images. Not sure if it’s an issue for basic though.

Template is in this post:

It looks like an issue with the flak vest sleeves, not the flightsuit. You could also try loosening the shoulder armor elastic a bit.

For basic clearance, I don't see any overall major fit issues with your kit. The one item that should be addressed is the sleeve width. You should get the sleeves brought in a bit, so that they don't fold and crumple so much. See photo. If the vest is already being altered, you could also hem it so that it's about 1.5"/38mm past the edge of the shoulder bell, but that's a Level 2/Lancer requirement. The new pouches look much better than the brown ones that were supplied. You can get rid of the brown ones.

I reached out to them, see what they will have to say. It's kind of a bummer considering how much they cost. As for the jacket, I may just end up giving it a go myself with the help of my wife. I was thinking I might just buy a pull over that fits really nice on me and take it apart and use that as a pattern. While the arms look the most daunting I think we can handle it if we find the right materials and take our time. I've already gotten some good help in the soft parts forum for it.

Next up was starting on my belt boxes. I started out by printing my belt boxes in PETG. Figured that would hold their shape really nice and if I ever wanted to put something in them I could. I got the pattern from the forums here. Transferred it to my leather and wrapped the 3D printed boxes and glued everythign in place. The snaps are functional. I haven't attached anything to the belt yet. I want to get my armor first and have that fitted. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xPFX8ftQCdXOArN6rMpCrQQMusVzxXnP/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n96etLIL_sCHRJII_5dplPeR5c8kBIc5/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y4kTVZFplcy_zBGDSVkswAvwAkN9Rwo-/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvJ6fXz-4sPVIxeZ9t1LinDnC56nFOdi/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BwURoBPhHOiQdSVwRH7FtCMUe9-Izfs3/view?usp=drive_link I have a ton of extra leather left over. Not sure what I'll do with it.

More priming sanding and painting The usual reaction. Might be the moisture Wet sanding Left bicep done. Test fit before glueing shut Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Pathfinders, I'm very pleased to announce I have joined your ranks today with the approval of my Shoretrooper Captain. Looking forward to serving the Empire in my new armour 🫡 Many thanks to all here on the forum who helped me along the way! ST-12775 https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=35535&costumeID=124

Just sent in my submission pictures for basic approval. Let me know what you think. Any advice is appreciated. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1u6QVsIaEiJOxr34iPCQzr9-ICGP56pMY

Usually that’s the case but unfortunately in the Florida sun & humidity- it’ll peel off even with a good alcohol wipe. It’ll hold for a while without extra adhesive but a little extra for good measure is a good idea to avoid any wardrobe malfunctions while trooping, especially during lengthy troops.👍

I have just received the E-mail form my GMOs that my Scout was approved! TB-21049 reporting for duty! Thank you for your help during my build. I plan to try for Lancer in the long run, but for now I just want to test the armor on some troops.

Thats good to hear. I thought I could just use the standard sticky back of the velcro, but Stryker suggested the e6000 to reinforce it. I know hes been trooping for a very long time so I do whatever he recommends. As for the greeblies, I decided to just go with MrPoopies models and 3d print new ones. Like you said there were just too many problems with the ones that came with my kit. I had to reprint the "T" piece at a smaller size because the original was just a little too big to fit. Its been a little too cold and raining here, but as soon as it dries up and gets a little warmer, I am going to filler primer all of the pieces and then paint them black. I will also do that with the 2 ec17 blasters Stryker gifted to me. The were a couple rough spots I'll have to take care of first, but you get that with pretty much any 3d print.

Some pictures from yesterday's armor party. Thank you to stryker and delta for all the help. We got velcro placed onto all of the various armor pieces. We used e6000 and the industrial strength sticky velcro. Later this week I will go back and put e6000 around all the edges of the velcro to help it hold a little better.

The gap is normal and was featured on Scouts in the film. Please consult the Scoutopedia for production images https://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

I've decided to give it try and join the Pathfinders once and for all got the files from @MrPoopie for the knees & shins and print them on my 3d resin printer, I figure since the knees will be resting on the boots the extra weight wont matter that much ( I'll let you know after my first trooping )

Some people attach to belt to their cod or flight suit to keep it from slipping down in front. It is not a requirement and not everyone needs the modification.

Thats pretty much it! Calling @Jakeputt and @BikerScout007 to give review on the following for the CRL.

Dry fit. Holding with blue tac Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Continuing on the blaster during holiday break. Primed and painted the blaster and then shifted focus to the guard. For MPs 3D 100% model 1/8”x1/2” flat aluminum worked well. Bent on the vice and set countersunk screw holes (#6 sink drill bit). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know its a few days late but all the best for the new year folks.

Happy new year everyone

The RS helmet is the most accurate scout helmet available, because the RS is created from a Lucasfilm production used helmet. If there are things that are uneven or asymmetrical, it's because they were that way on the screen helmets as well.

@MrPoopie @LookBehindYou - ignore me on ear holes, read the CRL again 'd'oh!' Earholes are cut out -- mesh or paint is not acceptable: Area behind earholes inside the helmet is blacked out, either with paint or tape. No interior white should show from the outside of the helmet when worn.

Photo dump of my blaster build so far...

For anyone reading this post in the future YES they are still giving out the Cummerbunds with these colored pouches. Just received my order today and they look like this.

For a mando scout, your back seam is just fine. Based on your photo, you should not need to alter your bund.

Add some airbrushing I ll need to wait for clear weather to do a Matt coat to seal the paint work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More paintwork on the gauntlets Initial Weathering before airbrush work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you run into any other sizing issues with Imperial to metric let me know. I can probably easily adjust the models to accommodate the metric pieces.

I can't answer how to separate the front and rear without seeing how they're attached to begin with. Post a photo and we'll take a look.

Bit late as I just saw this thread just now. Working on a Scout in Berlin as well. I'm a bit further along, so if you run into any issues feel free to send me a message as well. Maybe its something I just dealt with recently!

I'm sorry. My English is not very good. I mean I tightened the screws on the helmet because the front part was easily opening when I moved my head. After tightening the screws, when I move my head, the helmet still opens a little and the black elastic band of the chin strap is visible. I know it appears in the movies but aesthetically I don't like it very much. My question is. Can I replace the black elastic band with a white elastic band? Or if the black elastic band is visible a little, it’s considered an external element and therefore it isn’t allowed to use white elastic band. I don't know if it’s a little difficult to understand.

Some of the instructions that vendors send can be very old and out of date. Always use the CRL.

Blaster progress to completion. Shoulder strap to add next.

Happy New Year to all of our fellow Pathfinders and their families.

Nice work!! Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Thanks @Jakeputt and @ferra for your feedback 🙂 I got some good quality screen grabs I'll add to the helmet reduce the khaki. The helmet does not have mesh in the ear holes just yet, I'll be adding them shortly. The helmet yes it is a 3d print, a member in our garrison designed the helmet from scratch utilising details from the screen pics from the movie.