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Safety pins. Put a piece of velcro inside the knee armor. Stick the opposite piece of velcro to it, along with a pinned safety pin. Use the pin to attach to your flight suit.

@Hask @Ruthar are our PT armorers and they can help guide you through the build process. @MrPoopie, besides being a PT himself, designed 3D files for it and is our 3D printer expert. He also did his own jacket, since the original source for it dried up. Feel free to post up any questions you have about the costume here.

Some background, I've been with the 501st / Golden Gate Garrison since late 2014, served on Command Staff for a couple of years and helped a bit with garrison merch, but got retired due to lack of activity in 2024. A couple of reasons, one) all ABS armor eventually yellows. This was a battle with my ESB TK armor for the past 5+ years and it is now at the point of sanding and painting to rescue it. It saw quite a few troops when I was part of the Golden Gate Garrison. Two) we are in small numbers here in the Northern Nevada under Central California Garrison, thus event requests are far and few between. So with that said, I am planning to return back to active status this year with Central California Garrison (relocated to the Outer Sierra Mountain Ranges in 2023). We are looking to change this in 2025, so if you know anyone who is looking to join the Empire here in the Reno/Sparks area. We are here to help! This is my First Offical WIP entry. Not that there is anything that probably haven't already been done with other builds, but I did do a few tricks when fitting my TK armor to fit as good as I was able to accomplish. Something I am looking forward to doing here as well. My loadout: Armor: Studio Creations full kit. Ordered April 12th, received May 3rd. (Which BTW, at the time of this entry, they were offering a $504.00 price for their kit. Unheard of IMO and don't know how long this sale will be good for! Plus Kurt took care of me when I asked if he could accomodate my request. That was customer service!) Soft Parts: ChrisX909X: Full soft kit including boots. Hoping my experience will be better than some others had, especially regarding the boots. I wanted to give my business to someone in the USA. Ordered on April 27th, with an estimate of completion around June if I jumped in line but his original ETA was end of July, but as we say, "Time will tell" Gloves: Wampa Wear - Size Med Received April 30th. Base Layers: Basic black compression gear and balaclava used with my TK. I am hoping that I won't need to use the insulated ones during colder months with all the TB layers.😄 Voice Amps: Anker and Throat mic. Optional: TrooperTalk used with my TK. Ground Transportation: Honda CBR650F with Imperial Graphics Okay, since photo space is limited on the forum, I'll be sharing anything specific about my build in my WIP thread using the Google sharing method. If you are looking for anything specific, I may have images of it, just ask. Obligatory Big Brown Box and initial unboxing. Hasbro Black Series TB Helmet and LEGO key chain for inspiration. My next post will be helmet related as that doesn't need to have my soft parts for proper fitting. Until then Toybiz out...🫡

Velcro, not magnets. Read through this thread:

More updates Just have to put it on.. still have weathering to finish. First wash on and removed. Will add more wash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Velcro. You can read more in this post:

I’ve been reading along in the shadows for abit now, and seeing how helpful everyone is here towards each other was part of the reason I decided to actually go ahead with making the costume Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am starting my build!!! I have the Custom Creations Kit and the KPROP Helmet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, I've been wanting to make a stormtrooper armor set and joint the 501st for quite a long time now, and I've decided to bite the bullet and just get started, with what seems to be a doozie of a set. My goal is going to be just to get approval while doing as many of the "easy" L2 additions as possible. My helmet I plan on having be full L2 from the start. I've decided that I am going to be making most, if not all of the armor myself using 3d printing and purchasing most of the soft parts. Helmet Plans STL File - Nico's Shoretrooper Helmet Files Filament - PCTG (I'll let everyone know how that goes and update if I change filament) Visor - Branfur Studios Shoretrooper Visor Paints Filler Primer - Rustolium Filler Primer 2 in 1 (May try out Seymors PBE as Ive heard its really good and has a much shorter dry sand wait time) Base Primer - TBD Tan - Montana Gold - Sahara Beige Black - TBD Spicy Red - TBD Does anyone have any tips on filler putty to use. I usually use Bondo for my props but was wondering if there were any good alternatives.

Back at it this week. The jacket came in from Galactic Props. The material feels good, and the quality seems on par with other costumes parts I've bought from other vendors, but it doesn't have the flat stitching that I inquired about them doing. I think it will still pass basic approval. Would welcome any input from the folks here. Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

Correct. The snout aerator should not be silver. That is one of several issues with the black series helmet. Leave it black.

Almost forgotten about the black lines on the sides. Will continue weathering. Another pigment wash when the weather improves. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the mando scout, yes, it's the tie fighter suit.

My Kit so Far Helmet: KPROP Armor: Studio Creations Gloves: Wampa Wear Cumbersome: KPROP Boots: crow Props flight Suit: looking at Wampa Wear Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy to report this method works like a dream!! Sent from my SM-S928U1 using Tapatalk

Brilliant indeed. That was way too simple a solution, which is why I didn’t think of it. 🤣 That’s why you get paid the big bucks around here! Thanks Corey! I’m filing that one away in my bag of tricks for future inquiries.

Given that you also use the flight suit for your TIE, Velcro isn’t really an option. You could try using rate earth magnets. Use E6000 to secure a magnet to the inside of the flight suit and another magnet on the knee armor. Just make sure that the placement of the magnets doesn’t interfere with your ability to bend your knee without pulling the magnets apart. I’d first test gluing a magnet to the inside of the flight suit around the calf where it will be covered by the boots of both costumes to make sure that the glue from the e6000 doesn’t bleed through or mar the outside of the suit.

I know this is an older thread, but it doesn't look like the blaster was ever added to the CRL. I've finished the same blaster mentioned above. Does someone want pics to post?

I’ve been following the 501st since I was a kid, and I’ve finally resolved to try and do a 501st approved costume of my favorite modern Star Wars trooper. I’ll be getting a 3D printer within the month, but I’m still a bit overwhelmed by the entire process if I’m abit honest. Going to try and post the process over the next year or so here so I can track my own progress and help others avoid the mistakes that I’m sure I’m going to make.

Indeed we are. Post up your photos when ready and we will be here to assist.

Ok, took me a while but I wanted to share some first pictures of my new Scout Helmet by iron Motion in germany. He offers three different options on his website: 1) Kit 2) Pre-assembled kit 3) Finished kit I chose the pre-assembled version because of too many projects you know... 😉 It only needs some finishing touch like minor trimming, final sanding, assembling, installing all parts of the helmet and painting. When I'm finished I'll make some new pictures with a tape measure and side by side comparison with my SC bucket.

Was able to use your recommendation for the sandpaper around pen trick (not sure why I didn’t think of that), and it worked out really nice and was able to get them more symmetrical for both side. Tip of the cap to you Chopper! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've used both of these styles in different helmets: https://www.amazon.com/Aoutacc-Universal-Airsoft-Replacement-Accessories/dp/B07PGF4CTH/ref=dp_prsubs_d_sccl_1/144-1238176-3458826?pd_rd_w=PS5H0&content-id=amzn1.sym.efe5d038-dc89-42e0-b82c-81ca9bb5c760&pf_rd_p=efe5d038-dc89-42e0-b82c-81ca9bb5c760&pf_rd_r=3GRSFS4DDVY7G3EGHMT5&pd_rd_wg=Rlb1t&pd_rd_r=763a4310-e4fb-4bc4-802e-09640706bcee&pd_rd_i=B07PGF4CTH&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y5JZFGB?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_10&th=1

GLOVES: Wampa Wear is the obvious go-to, but I was intrigued by Endor Finders trying to more closely mimic the Esprit gloves what with the included zippers. Ordering was very easy but I did notice that a few sizes were out of stock, I'm not sure how often these are getting produced. I was between a size Small and Medium according to the size chart; I endored ended up getting a size Small and they fit pretty well (even a little on large side). Shipping was very quick and the gloves appear to be very well made. So far, I would recommend these if you don't mind the increased price and a little extra work to remove the zippers. More pockets!!! So about that zipper... To remove the zipper, I used the same method Aradun recommended in his thread here: This was a great resource and I probably wouldn't have gotten these gloves if it weren't for this topic. I considered cutting the zipper like some other posters, but ultimately went with the flathead + knife approach. Personally, I prefer the look with the nylon zipper attachment intact and way it affects the form of the gloves, but I may cut them out later if they are a problem for approval or durability (I would like to go for Lancer status eventually). I'll probably cut the zipper pulls on the wrist at some point as well. All in all, very happy with these gloves. At some point, I may look into modifying a pair of Esprits since they don't seem too uncommon on Ebay. Apologies if that's a photo overload!

Agreed! It constantly gave me headaches. Here is my setup. I used to have a pad on the top, but it lifted the helmet up too high

Because of our forum limitations, we can't host every user's photos onsite. We need to save what space we have for archival images, such as the Scoutopedia! But there are ways to add images to your posts. If the image is on the internet somewhere (found in a Google search or hosted on Imgur, Google Drive, etc) the way that seems to work the most is to right-click on your image, select "Copy Image Address" and then paste that link into your forum post. Within a matter of seconds, the link should change to your image. If you don't see "Copy Image Address", you may need to try opening the image in its own tab first (this is usually a choice in the right-click menu). Sometimes just clicking on the photo will enlarge it and you can "Copy Image Address" then. If your images are on your PC's hard drive or on your phone, they need to be put on the internet first -- usually on a photo hosting site like Photobucket, Imgur, Flickr, Google Drive, or Dropbox. Just keep in mind, they need to be on a public drive or you may need to create a share link first (like with Google Drive) Many of those sites have ways that you can "hotlink" your images for forum posts, but try the above method first. How to Embed a Google Photo Into a Forum Post: 1. Go to your Google Photos and use the share button on the photo you want to embed. 2. Select Create Link and copy the link it creates. 3. Go to https://www.labnol.org/embed/google/photos/ 4. Paste the link and click Generate Embed Code and it will provide an embeddable link. 5. Copy the Direct Image Link and paste that link in your post. How to Embed a Dropbox Photo into a Forum Post: 1. Upload the photo to a dropbox folder (I just drag them into the Dropbox folder of my computer's file manager). Make it easy on yourself and don't put any spaces in the file's name. Spaces in a link have to be represented by "%20", so it's best to avoid them. 2. Once it's uploaded to Dropbox, right click the file and select "Copy Dropbox Link" 3. On the forum, start a new post. Enter whatever text you want to put in before the photo is to appear. From here, you have two ways to go.... 4. You can click the button in the Lower Right that says "Other Media" and then choose "Insert Image from URL" 5. Paste in your Dropbox link AND CHANGE THE "www" to "dl". 6. Click "Insert into Post". Do this for as many images as you have. OR 4. If you feel comfortable editing in HTML, click on the upper left button that says "Source". The contents will change to HTML. 5. Paste in your link. It will appear something like this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ui19u5g3nurir9/3.5.22.jpg?dl=0 6. Edit the link to read as follows (using the above as an example): <img src="https://dl.dropbox.com/s/3ui19u5g3nurir9/3.5.22.jpg?dl=0"> NOTE: Do not forget to change the "www" to "dl" 7. Click "Submit Topic" and enjoy your pic! Here's the one I used as an example:

So i printed my first TPU parts. I've never used TPU. I used the default setting from cura for generic TPU on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Max. I think they turned out good. Little oozing, so may need to adjust the temp some. Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

Well, I ran this by the DL and he referred me to the DCA. Last night I posted on FB that I was looked to commission a jacket. A prop vender named Galactic Props contacted me and said they could do it, and sent me some pictures and a video of their jacket. The pictures look like something that would pass basic approval, but the video seemed to show the flat stichig as well as the ribs. So I took a gamble and ordered it. They did ask for measurements and said it would take about 2-4 weeks. So, well see how it goes. If it turns out good, we might have a vendor willing to make the jackets. Link to jacket video. Patrol Trooper https://imgur.com/a/XvYsAzK Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

Jacket came in. Seems decent quality, but is missing the flat stitching section shown in the video. I hope it will at least pass basic. Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

Yes, velcro holds the straps securely.👍

how are you attaching the straps on the inside of the belt, velcro?

Depends on the outer diameter of your det hose and most but not all are exactly the same. Any vacuum or pool hosing you get from Amazon is going to be more than you need. I would email studio creations or cal at far away creations to see if they'll just send you some det hose at a nominal price.

Yeah it is looking pretty fun to work. Just haven’t get my sewing machine working to do the straps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent work! Keep it up!

Okay, now onto helmet visor/face plate assembly. Might be a TLDR kind of post. After reading some other WIB posts about their helmet building, it dawned on me that we can't rely on the armor maker to put the divots in their parts that will line up perfectly, so you know exactly where to cut, where to drill, where to glue. It is a "hold in place" take a look, adjust, look again and do it all over again untill you are satisfied. This WIB is intended for you Studio Creations owners. Since I can't speak to other armor makers, whether some of my findings apply to other makers = YMMV (your mileage may vary) After my case face plate/top/rear cap paint dried, I started fitting the face plate and visor. Since these two parts are separate, yet integrated, I looked at how they would work together attached to the now assembled top/back assembly. Looking closely at the side of the visor, you can clearly see where the pivot caps bolts will go. Since this is both a feature and highly visible detail, I started here. Using my trusty leather hole punch (or drill if thats what you have), I put a 1/8" hole to start. Knowing I will eventually make it larger but smaller is better for finding the middle of the next holes. Holding the face plate and the visor together, I was able to see that they did not complement one another and that I may have to do some trimming especially on the right side. Since the visor was the outer part and most visble, I started with that next. Remember, it has been said here many times. "It is easier to remove plastic than it is to put it back" or in my book, "measure once, twice, three times before making any cuts" I didn't take any photos of what I did next because I like to think, if you gone this far, you kind of know what you are doing and just need some guidance not a step by step DIY. Looking on the sides of the assembled back/top, there were some divots where it looks like the visor pivot bolts would go. But when holding the visor where the 1/8" hole I punched lined up, held in place with some blue masking tape, it didn't seem right to me how the side of the visor lined up with the edge just in front of the ears. So feel free to move the visor forward, backwards, up and down until you think it looks right to you. Double check the clearance of where the visor curve swings over the top cap. Use the reference pics for guidance but also take into considerantion this SC helmet wasn't cast from orignal molds, so what you have in front of you will be somewhat different. Once satisfied with the visor placement, using those two side visor holes, I made some pencil marks on where the pivot bolt hole would go. I punched a smaller 1/16" (or drill) now you are committed but not the end of the world should you have to make a different hole. Using a thick paper clip, I stuck them into both visor pivot holes and checked for clearance when swinging the visor up/over. Mine looked good and with nothing hitting, the next step was to introduce the face plate to the party. Since the back cap and visor aren't changing shape or being cut at this point, think of the next step as making the face plate fit the visor and back cap, not the other way around. Holding the faceplate to the back cap and top assembly without the visor, you can see where the 1/16" back cap holes lines up with the face plate. If you use the divots on the faceplate, how does it sit? On my SC helmet, using the divot on the back cap, I still would have to trim the right side face plate edge that lines up with the right back side of the visor. This can be seen in the pic above how much might have to be trimmed. Once you are satisfied with the face plate placement, tape the visor and face plate together and fit them to the helmet. You know that the visor and helmet lined up, so you now you can mark the face plate from the side of the visor holes and make the 1/16" hole on the face plate as well. Now put all three parts together and use those paper clips for a test run. There will be some binding and rubbing from the face plate since you already know it doesn't line up correctly. With all three in place, since I am using the 3M type visor bolts (the SC provided metal ones are similar just without a couple of steps for the 3M ones) I did the following. Cut out the visor side holes to 9/16" (some folks here said 1/2" but that didn't fit that initial round step in the 3M bolts) remember to go slow and honestly, I did it by hand using a step drill bit. Now use the visor as a template, making sure you line up the holes you made. You can mark what you need to trim on the edge of the face plate. Before I cut, I cut out a 1/2" square in the face plate to fit the second step on those 3M bolts. That took a bit more work, a combination of drilling the corners and cutting out the square using a X-acto knife and some small jeweler's files. Once the square hole was put in for the round peg 👌, I locked the face plate to the visor using the bolts and washers. Now its time to double-check how the face plate and visor sides line up. If it still looks good, then hold the face/visor assembly up to the helmet assembly. If still looking good on the sides and the height, make sure to line everything up and check if that previous side of the back cap mark is still good to go. If not, it should be close and if you have to make another hole, not a big deal. Time to trim the face plate. Fortunately I only had to trim on the right side (first picture on top) and sand a little bit on the left. Next step was to drill the 1/4" hole marked on the side of the back cap and assemble the face plate and visor. Check your work, fitment, excessive wonkiness, etc. If there is any additional trimming now would be the time because the next step was gluing the face plate to the visor. I checked where the face plate and visor would meet and for the SC it was around the the pivot "flaps" were. So added some E-6000 to this area, put the pivot bolt in (this where having a square hole helped line things up) tightened the bolts, set my clamps and magnets. While waiting for the E-6000 to dry on the face plate and visor, my next post will assembly. Until then Toybiz out...🫡

Except for the assembling the back cap and top, most of this next section is purely OPTIONAL. I ridden motorcycles for many years and the inside of the helmets are usually medium/dark gray or black. Because of this I painted the inside of my ESB TK helmet BLACK as well. I know it's more work but I like the end results. To me it makes the helmets look more "military". With that said, the time to paint the inside is BEFORE it's all assembled. So the first step was to combine the top and rear helmet sections. Whether you are painting the insides like I did or not, it is the first step. With the SC helmet the two pieces come pre-trimmed and when fitting them, they appear to line up fairly well. I would say about 90%. If you choose to, I recommend to polish up with fine sandpaper, all the exposed edges of both parts before gluing them together. I did scuff up the mating surfaces with 100 grit sandpaper where the glue, in my case E-6000, would meet. This was along the rear lower ledge of the top and the upper recessed channel of the back cap the two pieces meet. I chose to use E-6000 because that was my go-to when building my TK. Strong, flexible and forgiving if you have to take anything apart. Rare earth magnets and some ratchet clamps held things together overnight. What next? Here's that part of the journey of masking, masking, and guess what? More masking. Followed by cleaning and double checking the masking - then painting. Remember when painting, best results are from prepping prepping and prepping. 👆🏿 I got myself some 1/8" wide masking tape to outline the shape of the snout. As one of the features our fans see first, having a smooth blacked out snout is important. I taped and removed the thin masking tape about 4 times before I was satisfied. This isn't an RS helmet so there are some imperfections along the snout "ridge", so just do your best that you can. Better to change your mind with masking than to remove paint later. I used Krylon Fusion Satin Black for Plastics spray paint. It's not as glossy in person as it does in pictures, so it should be good. 👆🏿 Got some old newspaper and wrapped the rest of the exposed areas to prevent any overspray. You will get some no matter what. I used some plastic polish and any overspray, pencil marks, scuffs, etc - all came right off with a little bit of elbow grease. Took some masking tape and visually found the center of the forehead and without peeling all three decals separately, I just peeled them back about halfway and lightly tapped them into place, stood back and checked for center/level. Removed them, recentered them (three times) and when I was happy, I simply rolled back the paper while pressing out any air bubbles and all three decals stuck in a straight line just like they were on the cut sheet. 👉 My next post will be assembly. I KNOW all fan made helmets are slightly wonky. They are not symetrical and nor were the ones used in the films. I have a Hasbro Black Series if I want to look at an idealized version of the Biker helmet. So take a breather and just find some peace to do your best, just get as close to the reference images as you can and you should be good to go. You have literally over 100 years of combined experience here on Pathfinders to give you a hand so don't worry. Assemblying the face plate and visor will be shared on my next post. Until then Toybiz out...🫡

Alright I bit the bullet and ordered new straps from Paul. I tried trimming down the IS ones but they’re just so thick and inflexible. Ugh, sucks having a setback like this. Guess I’ll move on to the abdomen armor for now. Is there a good way to attach/glue the zipper part to the back? https://imgur.com/gallery/d5IvU26#hCDw3wl

Great to hear it.

It’s the lighting as we discussed earlier. [emoji1417] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The studio creatons eyeslot is typically smaller than it should be. Your top marking on the final image looks good for additional trimming. As for bit of molding irregularity on the bottom end of the snout, I think that's fine. The studio creations helmet is starting to show it's age, but it still works for many scouts.

Good news all around (except for the shins, 3D printers can be fun like that). Yes, the forearms are each 2 large pieces. The left forearm also has 2 small oval parts that attach to the top detail section (see the CRL for positioning).

Your second image looks good. In the first image the top end should be rounded a bit more. For both, take a bit of 400 grit sandpaper and wrap it around a pen tube and run it around the edges to smooth it out.

Got my pants from Uniform Warehouse and my boots from Amazon. I have to get the pants tailored. The are pillowing more than I would like. Just got my boots today, didn't want to get the pants tailored until I had my boots to properly do the length and stirrup at the bottom. Are the boots OK? These were the best option I could find. They fit pretty well, I just need to work them in. Pants https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VwlNMZxM_BLHtWfeXdEaxN_GOoerre2U/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/11CEiCGPc8GseiZK4NALmSDbR7ENpbeLm/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k4IytLvDBKroRZUmZxn6VhUeIAIABlI3/view?usp=drive_link Boots https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M9E6eb3l8KWQrnwOQ-gxEskke8BY9fiY/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/16Rl8NOlLTxeWShXVcs-jwD9US-_bLXMq/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lQ6AY9d-4zWeCPJZvndBDKicd3V4hwRB/view?usp=drive_link

I used fine line tape. This was my procedure 1. Use a finger and a pencil to create your marks. You can hold a pretty even line all the way around. You're not trying to "draw" the shape, just put a few guides for running your fine line. 2. Run your first straight with the fine line in one pull. Tack it at the bottom, pull the tape somewhat tight and drop it in place giving your first side a nice straight line. Press the tape to the part just prior to the start of your curve. 3. Keeping the tape under tension start gently going around the curve pressing the tape to the part. If you get a "flat" spot or you go wide just a couple millimeters off and retack it. Work your way around the curve pressing where the tape is tangent to the curve. 4. once you get just past the end of your curve pull off several inches and finish your final straight, again in one take keeping the tape straight. Fine line tape can be found at most auto part stores. It's a vinyl tape with low tac and high stretch. Once you get it on, mask off your part and spray. Nice LIGHT coats, just enough to make it black and no more. Once the paint has tacked up you can pull off the fine line. Pull the tape slightly toward the painted area. Not straight up or away, you can stretch the paint and it will drop out side your line. By pulling toward your paint the fine line will cut the paint leaving a nice clean edge. Ok video here.:

In May 2020 I was asked by the Legion to do a video walkthrough of the ROTJ Biker Scout CRL. Hope this helps clarify things!

On to the cummerbund, cod piece and pouches weathering...

The back armour... Base colour applied The base wiped down and then a darker base in the creases added First layer of weathering Finally the weathering is done The helmet will be this weekend. Then onto adding distressing and wear marks to finish the armour off but everything needs to dry for a few days for that. Then onto the straps, cummerbund, pouches, and cod weathering.

Finally have some time to get back to weathering. Tonight was the knees.

It’s oil paint weathering. It’s how I was taught how to weather by a friend who does costumes for feature film. I use Windsor & Newton oil paint, black, raw umber, burnt umber, burnt sienna, Indian red, and light red. Cover the entire piece with burnt sienna then wipe off leaving heavier spots in creases, then it’s applying layers of other colours, wiping, dry brushing and stippling to create the look. The great things is it takes days to dry (actually more like a couple weeks) so you can rework it. And if you don’t like it spray 99% isopropyl alcohol on it and it wipes clean. I’ll do some WIP on the next pieces.