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After the past few years of doing Pathfinders PR as head of Recon Fatale, @Jennk182 has decided to step down so she can concentrate on other things! I'm sure she has her hands full with Imperial Scottish Garrison Thank you, Jenn, for your leadership of Recon Fatale these past few years and putting a spotlight on the ladies of the 501st Pathfinders! Stepping into that role is none other than @Feliscout, Sarah Silverman-Pucci! Besides being a 15 YEAR member of the 501st Legion as of 2024, Sarah is also one of the very few Pathfinders to have reached Ranger status. Her enthusiasm for the Pathfinders and Recon Fatale made her a natural pick to be its new chief! Sarah will be in charge of the Recon Fatale social media, so if you have pics you want shared, she is the Pathfinder to talk to! Let's give a big hand to Sarah and Jenn!

Here’s our first patch for Garrison Carida’s 27th Elite Recon! Features: Scouts (from left to right) @Worst TB42987, @haringjr TB11375, and yours truly. Pennsylvania Keystone and State colors of blue and yellow. Our Garrison cog: blue/red Created from this photo: (photo credit: Ron Hoffman TK15310) Shout out to Sold Out Swag (https://soldoutswag.myshopify.com) for production!

Few more photos of other Dlt19 x i have made

More painting. Had issues with 3M Tape. Now there’s adhesive residue as I remove masking. Back to yellow kabuki tape. First blue spray Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys My names Jordan TB19956 Uk garrison, my instagram is bounty helmets and i make props and helmets and blasters I thought il put a post on here if anyone is interested in wanting a DLT19X or DLT? They are 3d printed in FDM and SLA resin with reinforced aluminium pole l and a wooden dowel. These are made to order and will be doing a run of 5 for now PRICES DLT19 £250 PLUS SHIPPING SHIPPING PAID AT THE END DLT19 X £280 PLUS SHIPPING I AM BASED IN THE UK BUT CAN SHIP ANYWHERE OF COURSE You can choose to have it clean or weathered as well if you are intrested you can give me a DM on here or on instagram link below https://www.instagram.com/bounty_helmets/?hl=en-gb i have made a few for my garrison that have all past approval, you have a choice of black or red lense on the sniper scope Many thanks guys Jordan Heres a few photos of some that i made e BEST PART IS THAT IT BREAKS INTO PIECES SO ITS EASY FOR TRANSPORT AND TROOPING

More trimming. I m left with the AB armor and the main calves armor. Shoulder bell ready for some blue paint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have a few options, depending on your budget: @Chrisx909x sells boots and soft goods, here: Gio from CrowProps sells boots: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-scout-long-boots-white-with-accurate-soles Chef in the UK sells boots: https://chefscreations.co.uk/ And if Lancer/Level 2 is not something you're concerned with, you can look at KeepTrooping: https://keeptrooping.com/product/biker-white/

I recently completed my Shoretrooper Captain kit and am currently waiting for my local GML to get back to me about approval. In the mean time I was curious as to what some of the folks on here thought about my build. This is the first build over this complexity I have ever done and it took me a couple years to finish. There are a few slight fitment issues I am aware of from these photos that I didn't catch, namely the blue chest strap not being fastened and my belt not being strapped on tight enough. Other than that, if you have any suggestions on how I can improve, I am all ears. Helmet: Nico Henderson 3D Print. Armor: Imperial Surplus V2. Shirt and Breeches: Keep Trooping Gloves: Endor Finders Boots: Orca Bay Brecon Hip Plates and Belt by Me. Leg Straps: 850 Armor Works I 3D Modeled parts like the belt boxes and the pringle can to save weight.

Hey @SMilt! Thanks for the additional shots. You MAY be able to get these repaired by using some ABS and ABS paste (ABS scraps and acetone). If you chose to go that route just look at some reference shots. And do your best. But, to me It looks like the previous owner has made some mods that may not be salvageable. I leave this open to other opinions from the team. However, I hate to say this, if this were my build I might consider looking for some replacements. May cost a little, but save lots of time in the long run. And most likely be happier.

I think I bought the wrong glue. Cos this one dries lightning fast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Armor sizes can differ depending on the vendor. There is no exact measurement for rivet positioning, so we use photos as a guide. Below is a photo of the knee armor and rivet from ROTJ. The rivet sits on the flat portion of the knee armor, just a smidge below the diagonal indent on the top of the knee.

Skull Garrison added! Thanks @Schizo

The material used for the pouches is totally different from what is used in the drop box straps. Level 1 of the CRL calls for "Drop boxes connect to the belt via white textile straps." This means that the straps can be materials such as polypro, elastic, nylon, or cotton. They should not be fabricated from cotton canvas. Level 2 is more specific and calls for "Dropbox straps are 1.5 inches (38mm) wide and made of white cotton webbing." You are looking for 1.5" white cotton webbing, for example, this: https://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Webbing-Bags-Clothes-Pet-Collars-Totes-DIY-Supplies/dp/B0CNJP4JFB

More painting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Cyra Marrus Hi, my build is Sean Fields. Approved in June. You can check my WIP posts for reference, and feel free to ask. I have acknowledged this before, and will do it again, this group is GREAT and @Minimo and @KOtrooper are AWESOME guiding... Go Grunts!! and HAPPY HOLIDAYS to everyone...

Are you using primer or any undercoat here? I’ve had similar reactions with different paint applications not “curing” long enough to let the acetone levels drop. And I saw this kind of raised/peeling. It was specially drastic when using Rustoleum primers. The weather could definitely be a factor. I just wanted to throw the other possibilities out there too since I’ve had frustrating experiences like these even in the driest of conditions. Hope this helps? -Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No complete build is necessarily approvable out of the box. The need for further tailoring and adjectives will entirely depend on how it fits your body. If you post up some photos when you first put it on, then we can advise. As for the drop box strap question, the CRL says: "Drop boxes connect to the belt via white textile straps" The elastic is acceptable for Level 1 clearance.

Hey @Cyra Marrus! I also do not have experience with Sean’s files personally. Buy mirror the others here that say many have been approved with them. Building my Shoretrooper was the most fun I’ve had in the hobby. Glad you’re joining us! I can share a little bit about my personal weathering process which seems to produce decent results. In this thread I made, even though it is a “conversion” thread, it talks about many parts of my build technique. Hope you find some of it helpful. The entries that cover weathering specifically are on Oct 28th (Chipping) and Nov 9th (scuffing and grime): Happy Building! Pathfinders lead the way! Mike

Thanks everyone, you are defo in good hands with Sarah!!

Thank you! I sent 850 a note for a quote. I spent most of my time on the chest but it’s good to get the expert advice - appreciated! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers pal 😎👍

Great build, about to order my breaches, top and neck seal from Keep Trooping, can I ask what size you went with and what height and waist size you are please Paul?, I am 6’.1 and 32” waist but usually get 34” waist in trousers I case be weight fluctuates, thinking XL to be in the safe size but perhaps L would be ok

I had to redo a couple of parts because of the known "splatter" the nozzle of this brand does...

Even with the knees dropping a bit, I still think the boots are too long. Measure out a point that's 3" from the top of the boot, then take some of that blue painters tape and put the top edge of the tape on the 3" marker. Then take a photo with your flight suit and knees on. That'll show if it's about the right height or not.

Good work with your progress. A few points -- It looks like your pouches are attached to your chest plate? You might want to consider attaching them to your bund, They'll sit flatter and more naturally that way. Sorry to have to say this, but your boots will likely need some alterations prior to clearance. I'm just eyeballing the height, but I'd say maybe 2.5"-3" needs to come off the top. Again sorry to have to point that out, but I imagine that your GML would mention it when it came time for submissions as well. Keep up the good work.

Looks good.

I can't believe that I have not posted in almost 6 months. But don't be afraid, I have not given up my Scout. I have worked on it and I sould be able to finish it within the next month. All the individual armor pieces are finished and also weathered. I just need to work on the attachment. I have also build, painted and weathered the helmet. But I wanted to let you check the weathering before I continue working on it. I'm unsure if my helmet is overweathered compared to the armor. I know the lightning is not the best, but it's the best I can do with the grey winter weather. The helmet is also still wet, but I needed to take the pictures before it gets dark outside.

Hey all - First time poster here. I'm not new to armor building, but I'm new to Scout Trooper building. My first approved costume was a Death Trooper - TX81813 from the Rancor Raiders Garrison in Mississippi! I'm a bigger human - About 6'3", 240 lbs. I printed @MrPoopie's chest piece, and it looks obviously too small. I'm currently printing a 110% scaled version to see how it fits. Has anyone up-sized these files? I'd love to see pics of up-sized armor, if anyone has any! I think I have a game plan - I assume that I'll want to make sure that all of the parts are up-sized to ensure that the armor is proportionate. I've been a Scout Trooper fan since I was a kid! I'm excited for the build!

Thanks, I have been trying both of those routes, no luck so far. To be fair, Wait was at a family thing last time I asked, probably need to try again

The daily thunder storm not helping out with paint work. Too much moisture in the air. Gonna have to sand and respray Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nailed it! Good word!

Awesome job on the boots. They look and fit great! Well done!

Finally finished the boots! This took me longer and was more difficult than I expected. Still fun! I don't have much to add to cheesewhoopys tutorial, but still wanted to document my process. I sewed in a strap on the right boot tube to help holding up against the weight of the holster, as Chopper pointed out in the tutorial. Its significant thinner than the one shown, it was what i had laying around, but it still seems to work. Clamping didn't really work out for me. So I tried a few magnets i still had. And it worked like a charm! Definitely have more magnets on my list for the next cosplay project I rounded out the dogbone after this picture. This is just to show the magnets. Speaking of the dogbone. I got my template from KOtrooper's buildthread: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/22421-kotroopers-biker-scout-build/page/4/?tab=comments#comment-209950 Cheeswhoopy's tutorial recommends using CA Gorilla Glue on the edges of the dogbone. I didn't have any, so I'm happy to report that this all worked out with just E6000! Here is something I did want to point out for Level 2: The dogbone is supposed to end above the toe strip on both sides. (as per CRL) I don't know if it was something added to the CRL after cheeswhoopy's tutorial was created, but I didn't see it mentioned there, so I wanted to point it out for other people I retrimmed my holster, and glued in reinforcements where the rivets will sit. And finally here is a picture of the finished boots: When they are not worn they ended up not being as straight as boots in other build threads, and when worn they do have crinkles and creases. I realized though by looking at the scoutopedia and other pictures of finished builds that this seems to be normal when worn. Am I correct in that regard? Also, there is a bit of a gap between the holster and the vinyl of the boots, depending on how I stand. Looking at other people's boots it seems to be normal, still wanted to ask if this gap is okay? Had a hard time pohotographing the boots close enough, so here are some pictures: (wearing black sweat pants in this picture, and not the flight suit. that one is a bit better fitting!) Looking at these again I really need to clean the mirrors in our apartment 😅

For the most up to date info you could ask RS directly to see what their current pouches look like.

I second Ukswrath, it been solid for me. I had to add some foam to the inside faceplate to eliminate feedback, but otherwise it sounds great.

It’s the most simplest of weathering technique for building scale models. Anyway, you create the chips using a sponge. Dip sponge in the base colour and slowly dap it on the edges or weathered areas. Randomly or with a wear pattern Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wondered about that, they're on a huge sale atm from fila, like 70% off.. Waiting to hear from my local approver.

Unfortunately I haven't been able to find anything so far. I asked Walt directly but he's in the middle of some family stuff. I am meeting up with @Ruthar this weekend to see what we can figure out. Will post findings.

Not quite. I’m also 5’10’m but I’m 250 pounds. But I’ll take the info for the base pattern and go from there. Between my wife and my mother I’m sure they can handle it. They did the ribbing for my flack vest.

Yeah, it’s tough to navigate in costume for sure. I couldn’t even slip out my baton from the hard plastic piece - the tolerance was just too tight. Just gotta look pretty! :P

My baton is leather straps like this. It works great to hold the baton, but once I pull mine out I find it almost impossible to snap it back in place because of mobility issues and gloves. It's a good thing that it's mostly ornamental and I rarely use it.

I do. I’ve made one modification since the original install. The original speaker is a 1 or 2 watt speaker that sits in a custom snout piece. I’ve had two of those speaker fail over the years so I bought a 5 watt Speaker and installed it in the back of the bucket recessed in the hump. It’s way louder and has eliminated occasional feedback issues from the mic being close to the original speaker mounted in the snout.

Heres what I was able to find if you want to put together a baby yoda punching bag. P37 Large Pack https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254466949115 Military Double Prong Canvas Belt, Heavy Duty Army Pistol Grommet Two Hole 1.75" (Khaki - Size X-Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1915MX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ErRcEbBNV3M5G Greeblies https://www.etsy.com/listing/766283903/scout-trooper-bag-rank-bar You can use this for Yoda Sounds in the bag NiZHi TT-028 MP3 Mini Digital... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBD65WG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hey Patrol Trooper true believers! Over the next few days we'll be adding to the Patrol Trooper CRL Optional Accessories some of the bits and bobs they carry in the "Star Wars Jedi: Survivor" game. These include: The Riot Baton The Orange Pauldron The Riot Shield We have pictures of the first two items, as they can carry over from the JFO Scout. To my knowledge, no one has built a shield yet. So until someone does, that one piece will have to wait before it's added. I know one of you will take up that challenge!

In this post I will cover how I did my Chest and Bells. I want to have different load out options, so a completely new set of chest and bells are needed to accommodate the different paint configurations. However, none of the steps I am going to cover in this installment are "Niamos Variant Specific", but... it is a necessary step to get to the variant steps. so, since I'm doing it anyay, I might as well cover it. The following parts were done using Mr. Paul's 3D files printed on a Creality CR10S-Pro V2 with PETG at 254-degree nozzle temp, 75-degree build plate, 15% infill. Along with that, I will need new straps and buckles which are also Mr. Paul's. Since this is not a complete build thread, I will not cover the entire 3D file prep process in-depth. But, here are my fully prepped Chest and Bells that were: 1. Sanded with 80 grit to knock down the major print lines 2. Painted with 2 in 1 Filler Primer (I know some HardCore builders don't use primer... I'm not one of those...) 3. Sanded with 220-grit 4. Fill any remaining pinholes with Bondo Glaze & Spot Putty 5. Painted with black primer (I like to use different color primers to see the progress) 6. Sanded with 400-grit until super-smooth (some crazies will sand all the way to 1200 grit. I've tried that, don't believe it's necessary... but to each their own) Once the parts are prepped and smooth, I coated them in a base coat of Montana Gold Shock Dark Brown to emulate the color of the original casted-armor: Then I'll attach the Straps and Buckles before the next stage of paint: Before I glue, I hit all contact areas with some 80-grit sandpaper to make a nice adhesion surface (e6000 has a tendency to pull away from smooth surfaces easily): Next, liberally cover the area with e6000, staying away from the edges to minimize excess glue from squishing out... Avoiding as much post-cleanup as possible is my motto: Clamp those suckers down good and let 'em set for a couple hours minimum before proceeding: For the buckles I am going to use a combo of 2-part epoxy (I like Scotch-Weld DP100Plus with applicator gun) and e6000: I put conservative amounts of the epoxy in the recesses and e6000 on the flat-contact surfaces: Then clamp THOSE buggers down and let them set for a few hours: Here's the chest with buckles and straps assembled: I use Humbrol Maskol before paint to emulate big chips. But any latex "liquid mask "should do... and I've also heard of the "toothpaste Method", but have not tried that myself: I don't go too crazy with the major chips. Just a few nice sized ones. The rest will get handled with additional weathering stages: Once the latex dries, I fully paint with Montana Gold Sahara Beige: Here it is with the Sahara Beige. I'll leave the latex masking on until all paint is finished: Note: When painting with Montana Gold paints on broad surfaces, I use the #6 low-pressure "Fat Cap" (Green w/Orange). I find that even though it comes out heavy and fast, it coats much more evenly with minimal "spatter": Coming up, Taping and Painting the stripes, weathering and finally strapping. See ya next time on "The Niamos Files"! -Mike Radness

Ok, first up. Addressing the Hip-Plates (or Hip-Faulds). The CRL draft requirement reads "Connects in the back behind the Rear Belt Plate Assembly and rear straps are not visible". This is meant to address the Faulds seen being worn much higher in the Andor-Niamos variant than in the Rogue One Grunt and Captain. Niamos seen here: So, I will walk through how I adjusted my existing Faulds to allow for them to be worn higher with no straps visible. I will also attempt to be as thorough as possible. Here is how my Faulds sit currently for my Grunt. Full Straps present and visible with slugs and ammo pouch. I first need to remove the Slugs and Ammo Pouch: My Slugs were attached with a screw and washer, so that removal was easy: The ammo pouch was riveted to the Faulds, so it needed to be removed by snipping the rivet. I then replaced the rivet in the pouch by inserting a printed form and drilling a pilot hole. then replacing the rivet with a screw and washer. This will allow them to be attached and removed freely in the future based on desired load-out. This did leave some ugly spots after removal that I will address later: Next, I need to raise the Faulds. I plan to do this with additional snaps to hold them higher, but not require me to cut or modify the Faulds themselves. Again, to allow for different load-out options. First I marked with tape how low I could go with fasteners and still not have them visible when wearing the Faulds low (E.g. - when trooping as a Grunt) and have them remain hidden by the belt: Then, after temporarily clipping the Faulds where I want them to be, I tested the placement by adding the belt to make sure it was where I wanted it, then marked and made holes for the snaps through my corset: After making the appropriately placed holes, I added snaps to both the Faulds and Corset to allow for snapping higher in place. This will allow the Faulds to slide under the abdomen/corset and fastening from behind (I added some additional reenforced tape to hopefully prevent the Plastezote from ripping): With it fastened in place, we have a small gap between the base of my abdomen tabs and the top of the Faulds. Then, placing the soft-belt and backplate/hard-belt back, it sits just where I want it... No pesky visible straps! A little Montana Gold - Sahara Beige touch up on those unsightly spots left after slugs and ammo-pouch removal as well as those new snaps and reenforced tape, and it looks just right: Next up, I will tackle the Chest and Bells... see you soon! -MikeRadness

That is without a doubt the coolest patch I have seen. Totally Awesome!

Armour : Montana Gold , Sahara Beige. Right Bicep Red : Halfords Toyota Red 3E5, Blue : is layered , base of Halfords , Ford Nordic Blue, with an over spray of Halfords , Matt Black and then a subtle overspray of Dirty Down Grey. Yellow : Tamiya Flat yellow XF-3 , Humbrol yellow #69 White, : Flat white , Matt white Black :Matt Black Glyn Dillon confirmed that the actual material armour was a dark brown almost black colour. This would explain some of the different shades against the Matt black. This is not a requirement but is acceptable for a base coat of Dark Brown, however bare in mind there are so many different shades of dark brown, because of this I have done some paint tests and I have found the RAL number 8022 black brown , to be a very close match and gives that different shade.