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@Hask @Ruthar are our PT armorers and they can help guide you through the build process. @MrPoopie, besides being a PT himself, designed 3D files for it and is our 3D printer expert. He also did his own jacket, since the original source for it dried up. Feel free to post up any questions you have about the costume here.

I’ve been reading along in the shadows for abit now, and seeing how helpful everyone is here towards each other was part of the reason I decided to actually go ahead with making the costume Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been following the 501st since I was a kid, and I’ve finally resolved to try and do a 501st approved costume of my favorite modern Star Wars trooper. I’ll be getting a 3D printer within the month, but I’m still a bit overwhelmed by the entire process if I’m abit honest. Going to try and post the process over the next year or so here so I can track my own progress and help others avoid the mistakes that I’m sure I’m going to make.

Ok, took me a while but I wanted to share some first pictures of my new Scout Helmet by iron Motion in germany. He offers three different options on his website: 1) Kit 2) Pre-assembled kit 3) Finished kit I chose the pre-assembled version because of too many projects you know... 😉 It only needs some finishing touch like minor trimming, final sanding, assembling, installing all parts of the helmet and painting. When I'm finished I'll make some new pictures with a tape measure and side by side comparison with my SC bucket.

Was able to use your recommendation for the sandpaper around pen trick (not sure why I didn’t think of that), and it worked out really nice and was able to get them more symmetrical for both side. Tip of the cap to you Chopper! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GLOVES: Wampa Wear is the obvious go-to, but I was intrigued by Endor Finders trying to more closely mimic the Esprit gloves what with the included zippers. Ordering was very easy but I did notice that a few sizes were out of stock, I'm not sure how often these are getting produced. I was between a size Small and Medium according to the size chart; I endored ended up getting a size Small and they fit pretty well (even a little on large side). Shipping was very quick and the gloves appear to be very well made. So far, I would recommend these if you don't mind the increased price and a little extra work to remove the zippers. More pockets!!! So about that zipper... To remove the zipper, I used the same method Aradun recommended in his thread here: This was a great resource and I probably wouldn't have gotten these gloves if it weren't for this topic. I considered cutting the zipper like some other posters, but ultimately went with the flathead + knife approach. Personally, I prefer the look with the nylon zipper attachment intact and way it affects the form of the gloves, but I may cut them out later if they are a problem for approval or durability (I would like to go for Lancer status eventually). I'll probably cut the zipper pulls on the wrist at some point as well. All in all, very happy with these gloves. At some point, I may look into modifying a pair of Esprits since they don't seem too uncommon on Ebay. Apologies if that's a photo overload!

Indeed we are. Post up your photos when ready and we will be here to assist.

The parts bin is filling up. Unfortunately I have a two week hiatus for a business trip out to Seattle, so not printing for two weeks. When I get back I need to try printing TPU parts. Hopefully my jacket will be here when I return and I'll have my soft goods all together. Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

Thank you! Also, just dropping these in since I'll probably need these pics for approval anyways:

Hello! Was away on vacation and traveling for work, so I've been a bit slower over the last month. But I come to you with a big update! I'm done with the backpack box! Check out the progression below. I'm really happy with how it turned out. I ended up using the NTX3D boxes, to make sure all the details were in there. And, I used updated Sean Fields files on the housing, to capture the circular greeblie on the top. Will still need to do some scratching and black washing, but after that I need to do the modification to the sides so that it ends up flush with the chest piece.

Model looks okay. If the maker is printing in PLA only, then there's the risk of brittleness and warping in high temperatures. Would be curious if there's any reinforcement like a dowel or something in the barrel.

Good news all around (except for the shins, 3D printers can be fun like that). Yes, the forearms are each 2 large pieces. The left forearm also has 2 small oval parts that attach to the top detail section (see the CRL for positioning).

Update: Jacket is apparently complete. They sent me a shipping label. We'll see if it shows up and how good it looks. In the mean time, I've started printing @MrPoopie 's files. The shin failed a couple of times, so I switched to the arms. LOL. I do have a question about the forearms. The files are two pieces, but I need to glue those together, correct? First couple of coats of of filler primer on arms, biceps, and hand plates. Toe cover are on their 3rd coat of semi-gloss white. Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

Your second image looks good. In the first image the top end should be rounded a bit more. For both, take a bit of 400 grit sandpaper and wrap it around a pen tube and run it around the edges to smooth it out.

I was able to remove the square stitching, and hand stitch the remainder of the top. I also used the hairdryer recommendation and I’m shocked at how well it worked out. Thoughts on the repair job? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I dislike the “hard hat” insert from RS prop masters for the helmet. Any padding suggestions? Anyone willing to share a few photos of the inside of their bucket?

I've used both of these styles in different helmets: https://www.amazon.com/Aoutacc-Universal-Airsoft-Replacement-Accessories/dp/B07PGF4CTH/ref=dp_prsubs_d_sccl_1/144-1238176-3458826?pd_rd_w=PS5H0&content-id=amzn1.sym.efe5d038-dc89-42e0-b82c-81ca9bb5c760&pf_rd_p=efe5d038-dc89-42e0-b82c-81ca9bb5c760&pf_rd_r=3GRSFS4DDVY7G3EGHMT5&pd_rd_wg=Rlb1t&pd_rd_r=763a4310-e4fb-4bc4-802e-09640706bcee&pd_rd_i=B07PGF4CTH&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y5JZFGB?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_10&th=1

Hi, welcome back to the world of the legion. Re: photos, we don't have infinite storage space on the site, so you'll need to use external photo hosting. See this thread for more info: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/

Sorry fell asleep right after work. https://drive.google.com/file/d/10SmbGObcgXyR9jmPRNlxV14Mwj7HAKhu/view?usp=sharing

Greetings everyone, Like most build threads, this is one a long time coming; I think I've been lurking and researching this costume on and off for 10+ years (at least since the bikerscout.net days) and I'm finally in a place to get started. Now that pieces are ordered and the first piece has arrived (gloves), I thought I'd start documenting; here's the full vendor list: Helmet: RS Prop Masters Armor: RS Prop Masters Soft Parts: KriptonTop Balaclava: NB Tactical Boots: Crowprops Gloves: Endor Finders EC-17: RS Prop Masters (considering keeping this on display and printing, molding, and casting one for use) I'd like to build a DLT-19x to go with it eventually. I've seen some recommendations for surfinbird132's model, but unfortunately it seems they've taken it down from thingaverse/cults3d in the last month or two - does anyone have recommendations for an alternative?

Agreed! It constantly gave me headaches. Here is my setup. I used to have a pad on the top, but it lifted the helmet up too high

You can tape a piece of paper inside the face plate, then trace the lens hole in pencil. Once it's flat, trace a second line that's 10mm wider. That'll give you a tracing pattern if you're cutting the lens shape out of a welding shield, or something similar. You can further trim the shape from there, as needed.

Because of our forum limitations, we can't host every user's photos onsite. We need to save what space we have for archival images, such as the Scoutopedia! But there are ways to add images to your posts. If the image is on the internet somewhere (found in a Google search or hosted on Imgur, Google Drive, etc) the way that seems to work the most is to right-click on your image, select "Copy Image Address" and then paste that link into your forum post. Within a matter of seconds, the link should change to your image. If you don't see "Copy Image Address", you may need to try opening the image in its own tab first (this is usually a choice in the right-click menu). Sometimes just clicking on the photo will enlarge it and you can "Copy Image Address" then. If your images are on your PC's hard drive or on your phone, they need to be put on the internet first -- usually on a photo hosting site like Photobucket, Imgur, Flickr, Google Drive, or Dropbox. Just keep in mind, they need to be on a public drive or you may need to create a share link first (like with Google Drive) Many of those sites have ways that you can "hotlink" your images for forum posts, but try the above method first. How to Embed a Google Photo Into a Forum Post: 1. Go to your Google Photos and use the share button on the photo you want to embed. 2. Select Create Link and copy the link it creates. 3. Go to https://www.labnol.org/embed/google/photos/ 4. Paste the link and click Generate Embed Code and it will provide an embeddable link. 5. Copy the Direct Image Link and paste that link in your post. How to Embed a Dropbox Photo into a Forum Post: 1. Upload the photo to a dropbox folder (I just drag them into the Dropbox folder of my computer's file manager). Make it easy on yourself and don't put any spaces in the file's name. Spaces in a link have to be represented by "%20", so it's best to avoid them. 2. Once it's uploaded to Dropbox, right click the file and select "Copy Dropbox Link" 3. On the forum, start a new post. Enter whatever text you want to put in before the photo is to appear. From here, you have two ways to go.... 4. You can click the button in the Lower Right that says "Other Media" and then choose "Insert Image from URL" 5. Paste in your Dropbox link AND CHANGE THE "www" to "dl". 6. Click "Insert into Post". Do this for as many images as you have. OR 4. If you feel comfortable editing in HTML, click on the upper left button that says "Source". The contents will change to HTML. 5. Paste in your link. It will appear something like this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ui19u5g3nurir9/3.5.22.jpg?dl=0 6. Edit the link to read as follows (using the above as an example): <img src="https://dl.dropbox.com/s/3ui19u5g3nurir9/3.5.22.jpg?dl=0"> NOTE: Do not forget to change the "www" to "dl" 7. Click "Submit Topic" and enjoy your pic! Here's the one I used as an example:

I'd love to share my experience with these two often talked about offerings of ready-made biker boots, how they compare to each other, and ultimately how they align with the current CRL. I apologize if this comparison has already been made in the past and if it is the case, I hope this can add to the dataset. Preface I am not endorsed or affiliated by any company or anyone that would give bias to one over the other. This is a personal writeup to share with the greater community and hopefully give additional insight. These boots are not cheap and if it helps you decide on one over the other (or none at all): mission accomplished! I am comparing my set of Imperial Boots (IB) Biker Boots w/ their new 'accurate soles' from late 2020. It's possible they have updated their design since. My CROWPROPS (CP) Biker Boots were from late 2021. It's also possible they have updated their design since. Because my CP set is custom made from home it will ultimately be more accurate (more on that later). I used the excellent Boot tutorial by @cheesewhoopyas my starting point. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/ Lastly, I will be aligning with the current Scout Trooper CRL (2022 year). IB Boots https://www.imperialboots.com/product/bikerscout-boot/ I first started with a pair of IB Boots in late 2020. Coincidentally, this was when IB released their new 'screen-accurate' soles and I was lucky enough to be one of the first customers to get my hands on it. The quality is superb with excellent materials used. And it's made well! At $270 USD, this is the more expensive offering of the two. After about a year getting my costume in order, it was determined that the IB boots won't pass Basic approval based on a few things. First, there is a horizontal stitch on the back near the heal that needed concealment: an easy fix. Second, the color of the sole is precariously dark (note: I did pass Basic without any modifications, though I have a feeling it probably won't pass now). And third, the dog bone on the top isn't shaped correctly. After carefully attempting to cut and reshape the dog bone, I successfully passed Basic. After dog bone modifications However, I wasn't satisfied with my work and to go further for Lancer requires a rethink. CP Boots Long: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-shadow-scout-boots-accurate-soles Short: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-base-boots-accurate-soles Which lead me to CROWPROPS, which has an interesting set of offerings: they give you the choice of either a completed, ready-made boot, or a short version where they essentially sell you a short white boot and leave the rest up to you to finish (adding the vinyl covering etc). Both versions include their 'screen-accurate' soles. The ready-made version is $200 USD and the short version is $100 USD , both significantly cheaper than IB. I decided to go with the short version, not because it was half the price, but I found their ready-made version looked a little frumpy. And at least from photos, it looked aesthetically worse than my IB boots that I already had. The quality is equally superb to that of the IB offering though. And if that wasn't enough, it is softer and more comfortable! Though we shall see how durable these will be in the coming years. So a few months of on and off being a junior cobbler and using the CRL religiously, I'm proud to say I produced a boot that I think is more accurate than what I started out with with the IB Boots! Detailed Analysis As mentioned earlier, because I custom wrapped the CP boots using the latest CRL, it is no contest that my finished CP boot is more accurate than the IB pair. In addition, the following photos show the post dog bone adjustments to my IB boots, which isn't the most pretty to say the least. I'd say the following comparison is to compare how the soles of the boots compare with the CRL as well as the areas where the IB boot needs improvement to align with the CRL. Boot Soles Strictly in shape and design, they both look quite similar and closely aligned with the CRL. Interestingly, the narrowest part of the IB sole is 2.5" wide whereas the CP sole is 3.0" I did not find the fit any different between the two however. I can only conclude that it is probably only an external design choice without really altering the interior space. The CRL does not specify this highly specific measurement so no worries about it! Another interesting detail that the CRL photo illustrates are these tiny stitch-like detailing along the perimeter of the sole. IB does not represent these at all, whereas CP does! IB left. CP right. The color is where the IB boots fall short. I think they are too dark and brown. Looking at reference photos and it's clear, they should be tan. CP's sole color is much more aligned with the CRL. Another weird thing about the IB sole is how the front dramatically ramps up like a banana. CP has more of a conservative ramp, which to my eye aligns better with the CRL. Toe Strip Moving up from the sole, we arrive at the toe strip. Please not this is a Lancer requirement only! The CRL states "The toe strip is approximately 1/2 inch in height." Unfortunately, the IB Boots uses 1" strips. Dog Bone Next is the dog bone. This is the area that I had issues with getting Basic approval and ultimately pushed me to redo my boots completely. For the IB boots, the shaping was more like a sanitary towel vs a dog bone. Even though the CRL doesn't specify the spacing of the stitching detail, IB's stitching is spaced out to 1/16" which to me is too close compared to the reference photos. I opted for a 1/4" spacing which I believe aligns better. To illustrate this point, I approximately distilled the two shapes to it's fundamentals. Rear There are a couple items to address in the back. First, the IB boots have a horizontal stitch near the heal that needs to be concealed. Some white paint, or if you go for a dirty look, just some grime can work. The next item I think is either for Lancer approval only, or just good to have: IB boots come with a vertical vinyl trim piece along the spine of the boot for decorative/finishing purposes. I actually quite like it as it gives it a sharp, finished look. Unfortunately I think the proper method is to not have this extra vinyl piece and only have stitching detail along the spine. Top IB boots also have stitching along the top edge of the boot, at about 1/16" away from the edge. No specifics in the CRL but the reference photos indicates this stitching is a bit further away from the edge, 1/8" perhaps? That concludes the analysis. I hope it is useful in some way! If there are anything I missed, or is incorrect please let me know! -------------------------- The next few things are added tips, tricks, and additions that I found useful while working on my boots. Some are already well known but it's nice to reinforce! * @Chopper's great idea of sewing an elastic band inside the boot behind where the holster is located. The elastic wraps around your calf so the boots don't droop while you troop! * Doubling up the vinyl material (or another sturdy material) for the tube portion of the boot. This also helps prevent droopage. * Adding loops at the top opening of the spine. It doesn't use a lot more vinyl and gives you a nice, finished look. * Adding pull straps to the tongue of the boot to help ingress. The pull strap can easily live within the boot velcro to the inner wall when stowed.

It might be fun to paint one of these black and covertly carry it next time we have a "Blast-a-Trooper" event, so when they start shooting, I can shoot back.