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Just started building my SC kit


AdamS

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Well, this is the second armor I've ever worked with (First being an FX TK.) and I'm somewhat nervous, but mostly about things like adjusting fits with a heatgun or trimming too much off- But anyhow, I'll post pictures and ask for tips as I go and much more whenever my helmet arrives.

 

Can't wait to wear it!

 

http://i.imgur.com/GAtPF.jpg

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Working on getting some pictures of my prototype cummerbund, pouches and now due to the new CRL, the vest as well. Making them at home in order to save money, heheh...

 

Armor is going good but I don't have access to a dremel yet for some adjustments so it's just sanding for now.

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Here's a couple pictures of the progress so far. The soft parts are all homemade and I'm waiting on getting the right tools for the armor work.

 

Tomorrow or the next day I should have the Tank attached to the back and the belt made. I'll post images as I make the belt because I'll need opinions on how high the boxes should be etc.

 

Give me tips but.. Be gentle.

 

http://i.imgur.com/WIUHt.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/4mjJy.jpg

 

-Also the vest and the suede patches/flap are going to be sewn on tomorrow.

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So, time for my first real question. What's a good way to mold the forearm pieces to the size of my arms? I either have really small forearms or SC forearm pieces are really big. I've got a heat gun and I can see something like a vice would be great in this situation to hold the form.

 

For reference shots of the suede, Juan, I used the thread here http://forum.bikersc...?showtopic=8744 (though the butt flap is simply a square) and for the thigh patches I used pictures like this:

http://www.madphisto...t/softparts.gif

https://www.keepio.c...rge/SW10008.JPG

http://i283.photobuc...ut/DSC_0089.jpg

 

As for HOW to sew it, it might be trouble for someone like me who has an older sewing machine. The jumpsuit and the suede might not fit in there, but it can always be hand-sewn if needed. This is why sewing on the boots terrifies me and I'm not looking forward to it.

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You shouldn't need to trim that much off of SC armour. Yes, it is a bit big (one of the bigger sets), but you should find that it's flexible enough to suit you when it's worn. So I would think that you won't need to mould the forearms. Just use the elastic to pull it into shape.

 

Drop boxes should sit about 2-3 inches below the belt line.

 

Crotch patch.... yes, it's a bit of a dog to do with an older machine. I had the same issue.

In the end I just unpicked the outer leg seam, and opened it up flat. Sewed it all up, then re-sewn the seam. This also allowed me to take out the suit bagginess at the same time. So in essence, it wasn't as harsh as it first sounds.

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If you say so, Chef. I'll try out the forearms without any heating for a while- the elastic may be enough after all. Thanks for the drop box info. That strikes me as really high, but I aim to follow advice here. We'll see how it looks.

 

The suede patches I think I'll end up sewing on top one way or another. The suit I have feels like it's the perfect amount of baggyness for me, (That suit was a real score.) but that's a good idea regardless.

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Yeah, I see what you mean. Righto! It will be 2-3 inches then.

 

On an unrelated note, is there any way to make it so the forum logs me in automatically?.. Every time I come here I have to re-log by means of this annoying flash system. Could it be signing me out because I use a Hotmail address? I remember reading something about the servers rejecting them.

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Hey Adam, To heat form TB parts I rolled up some towels and pot holders really tight

to the size and shape I wanted (slightly smaller than I want the plastic to finish out)

and masking tape the roll to hold its shape. Then I tape armor down to the roll nice and

tight and just slightly more bent than I want it to finish. I heat plastic slow and gentle and

when its at the point of being slightly flexible I stick it out the window into the

cold Canadian winter -40 deg LOL to shock the plastic into keeping its shape. Repeat as

neccessary. This is way slower than just putting the heat to a part and bending it while

wearing cotton gloves or what not, but you're pretty much garunteed not to ruin any

armor unless you're really careless with the heat. Sorry this is so wordy but I hope it

helps. What part of the Canada are you from brother?

Mike

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You shouldn't need to trim that much off of SC armour. Yes, it is a bit big (one of the bigger sets), but you should find that it's flexible enough to suit you when it's worn. So I would think that you won't need to mould the forearms. Just use the elastic to pull it into shape.

 

Good stuff - all this heat gun stuff. Never tried any of it before so I am learning.

 

Adam - similar to what Chef mentioned, when I had the SC set years ago, the forearm and biceps pieces would bend/flex (slightly) around my arms once connected with the elastic.

Also, since I had them connected with the elastic at all times, over time, the ABS would take the smaller shape.

 

NOTE: I did not permanently affix the elastic strape on the armor - I used white duct tape to hold the straps on the inside of the armor through their appropriate slits so that I could adjust at times if need be.

 

FYI if you do not want to mess with the heat gun option.

 

\m/

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Yeah, the heat gun I have is freaking me out anyways. I had to electric-tape it up just to feel safe using it. Progress for today postponed until later, but it looks like the pouches may be done today.

 

Mike- I'm in beautiful British Columbia, my friend! and I know what you mean about those temperatures. It's been acceptable around here, but I took a trip to Edmonton recently and had another taste of those -35ish colds.

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So, I began trimming the Tank/Hump a bit the other day and had to stop myself because I realized I'm terrified of mucking it up, so here are some images of the hump on the backplate. How much do you think I should trim- if at all- and where? If I can rivet it like this, I'll be plenty happy..

 

http://imgur.com/a/fsyYa#0

 

As I recall, they did have a fairly visible gap in the movies.

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There was a thread recently (i think) addressing tank gap- with some screen shot ref pics.

There are some good MoM ref shots on the stidiocreations website too. If I find anything

super usefull Ill send on. BC- Nice. Ive only hiked into BC so Ive only seen the backcountry

promised myself Id return. I actually looked at flights to Vancouvers 1st Fanexpo this year

but doubt Ill be able to squeeze it in money wise. You should be ready to rock the scout there

though!

Mike

[edit]

Da da da da da daaaaaaaaaaaa- (there are many more illustrations of this) hope this helps

the tank confidence! according to this shot- you could have more gap near the bottom of the

tank i think,.

med_gallery_1_3_259886.jpg

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Oh wow, they really had wonky tanks. I should be fine in that case. Just needs the slightest bit more trimming to make me satisfied, heh.

 

It's too bad you can't seem to make it to Vancouver. I'm really looking forward to the fanexpo and the more scouts we have there, the better. :/

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Good to see you found it Terry! Armor is moving along smoothly. If the helmet were to arrive faster I might even make it to that mysterious event on the 25th, But I doubt that will happen.

 

Now, an issue I'm having is that I don't want to order a TD greeblie, and since I'm not going to be shooting for lancer right off the bat, what can I do to make one? The boundaries are two small pieces, one rectangular and the other circular, right?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

WELL, I fell off the radar for a bit there. Must have gone too deep into the woods :V I've made a bit of progress on my suit and I'd like some approval/critiquing.

 

http://imgur.com/a/axujA#0 The helmet is still in need of padding, it sits really low and painfully on my head at the moment, (And of course it's missing it's snout and hinge-caps) the boots are just about done, and the tank topper still needs to be attached.

 

I'm nearing completion!

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