MrPoopie Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Below is a review of the current Galactic Armory ROTJ Scout 3D model files. Please review this before beginning your GA build as there are many items that do not currently meet the CRL. These can be adjusted and fixed to meet the CRL with some work by any of you willing to build this kit. With all this being said we are working closely with GA and they have agreed to update the files to more closely meet the current ROTJ Scout CRL. The timeframe is still TBD but most likely it will be soon. If you are unsure about something on this list please just ask and we will do our best to help make sense of it. Galactic Armory ROTJ Scout Trooper CRL Adjustments (01-11-24) Helmet • Edges around visor are a bit sharp and should be softened. • When visor is viewed in profile there is a slight wavy curve, this should be straight. • Bolts should have a softer edge to the concave center. (Figure H-01 & H-02) • Snout Greeble is not accurate. (Figure H-03) • Helmet bolts could be separated for use of other style bolts. • Front edge of dome just barely meets up with the visor and could be a bit longer. • Snout area could be made flat to allow for other snout greebles to be used. Shoulder Armor • Top middle of shoulder comes to a bit of a point and should be more rounded. Chest Armor • Grey box area should have smoother edges to give a softer appearance. • Chest and back shoulder bridges are “keyed”. This is not unacceptable, just odd. Back Armor • Tank is a bit too shallow, should protrude more in the back. (Figure B-01, B-02 & B-03) • Smooth the curve on the area between the shoulder bridges and the sides. (Figure H-04) Belt & Hip Box • Cutouts at rear for straps should not exist. Only a single rivet hole should be present. (Figure BL-01 & BL-02) • The edges of boxes could smooth out a bit more to give a softer appearance. • Rectangles between boxes are not necessary, it’s just an artifact of pulling ABS kits. (Figure BL-03 & BL-04) • Strap slot opening on hip boxes is a bit large. It should a be a slight indentation with a slot in the middle. (Figure HB-01, HB-02, HB-03 & HB-04) Thermal Detonator • Greebles should be separate pieces. • Remove “Zip Tie” section in the middle and replace with 2 holes on top and bottom of where “Zip Tie” was. (Figure TD-02) • Area above larger greeble should not indent upwards on upper lip. (Figure TD-01) • Tube should have a slight curve. (Figure TD-04 & TD-05) • Endcaps should be flat with a concave surface. No indentation. • Rectangle Greeble is not accurate. (Figure TD-02 & TD-03) Knee Armor • Needs holes for rivets. (Figure K-01) Holster • Should appear to be 2 separate parts, the main body and the straps that go around the blaster. • The strap thickness is also really thick. Not sure what's needed for structural integrity but the actual holster strap was only the thickness of an abs sheet. • Strap should not protrude below the bottom line where it fits into the main body. (Figure BH-01) • Oval embossed area on the front of strap should be slightly wider. (Figure BH-02 & BH-03) • 5 Vents on strap should be cut through. (Figure BH-02 & BH-03) • The rear side of the holster is very angular and boxy, whereas the screen holster is more graduated. • There should be rivet holes in each corner of the holster body. Link to Figure Images 7 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookBehindYou Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Is any of this a deal breaker for level 1? I’ve been working on the armor and helmet, all from GA. Here is what I’ve kept/done… helmet, rounded outside upper edges of visor. Added piece to dome to meet visor better. Replacing snout with one from @MrPoopie. Using rear vent stickers from @Plugger. Rest of stickers from trooper bay. chest, left as is. back, printed mandalorian instead of ROTJ, so had to raise back edge above tank. tank, left as is other than drilling hole in bottom for elastic strap that goes around back and gets riveted to top shoulder bells, @MrPoopie biceps, used tbits from @MrPoopie, slightly scaled down to fit GA armor forearms, @MrPoopie Belt and TD, @MrPoopie hip boxes, left as is knees, drilled rivet holes, rest as is holster, drilled rivet holes, rest as is I know a lot comes down to fit. But I’ve invested a TON of time into finishing this stuff and don’t want to have to redo anything that I “think” is done at the end. I’d rather get it over with now… Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPoopie Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 The things that stand out to me are below. Chest & Back: Are the side strap sections indented near the slots? This is not directly in the CRL but the look of the original is still part of the CRL. Holster: Shape is not right missing slots cut out (Lvl 2). This is not mandatory but if you ever decide to go for Lvl 2, replacing the holster can be a pain since you'll need t o drill out the rivets. The rest currently seems like it will pass Lvl 1. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookBehindYou Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 So first part. There is no indentation, it was “covered” up. See photos below. After looking at more photos, should I do the opposite and remove the part that covered the indent and sand down outward more to make it even so the strap essentially lays in the indent even with the back piece? Second part, easy fix. I actually already printed your holster print, just need to paint. The galactic armory ec17 surprisingly fits it nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMike Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 Hi! I have a few questions: 1. I can't notice the slight wavy curve mentioned for the helmet and was wondering if there is a visualization to compare and see where that sneaky curve is 2. I think you forgot to include the H-04 figure/picture, it seems to be missing from the link you sent 3. The GA tank seems to even/align itself with the top of the back armor, is that OK for approval? 4. The back armor also comes with holes so the tank can fit itself in. Should that be kept or is it best to go with the back-straps instead? Thanks for this assessment!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 8 hours ago, LookBehindYou said: So first part. There is no indentation, it was “covered” up. See photos below. After looking at more photos, should I do the opposite and remove the part that covered the indent and sand down outward more to make it even so the strap essentially lays in the indent even with the back piece? Second part, easy fix. I actually already printed your holster print, just need to paint. The galactic armory ec17 surprisingly fits it nicely. If it's covered up and not visible then it should not be an issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookBehindYou Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 5 hours ago, MrMike said: Hi! I have a few questions: 1. I can't notice the slight wavy curve mentioned for the helmet and was wondering if there is a visualization to compare and see where that sneaky curve is 2. I think you forgot to include the H-04 figure/picture, it seems to be missing from the link you sent 3. The GA tank seems to even/align itself with the top of the back armor, is that OK for approval? 4. The back armor also comes with holes so the tank can fit itself in. Should that be kept or is it best to go with the back-straps instead? Thanks for this assessment!! You may want to wait for more reputable info but my understanding is the there has to be some area between top of tank and top of back. I added some plastic to the top of my back to address. As far as the pins/holes I think that’s up to you whether you use them or not. But either way the rivets (both top with visible washer and bottom) and elastic straps have to be seen whether actually functional or not. heres some pics of my back and tank. Haven’t added the rivets any strap yet… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GruJohnny Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 First time builder here. Quick question, I bought the GA files without any intent of getting approval. However, I figured if I’m going this far I might as well go for it. My question is what parts are (with proper sizing) currently meet the CRL? Might as well get what I can done before the updates. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottTubbs Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 My question about your comprehensive review of GA files is are you implying they dont match up to the original movie accurate armor they made long ago? If one is going for just level one non movie screen accurate but crl approveable that are these files still wrong? I trying to understand what all you pointed out with the GA files. I did purchase these file awhile ago with the intent to get approved, that said I dont care if its level one or two... just another approved costume I can troop in. Im going the way of all satin black shadow scout style and I know there is a difference in the look of the all white vs all black. I have already had these files printed and painted everything to what I am lead to belive they are in compliance to shadow scout the crl. I did notice some of the greeblies were not accurate and remodeled them myself to look like what others look like, but I've noticed those same greeblies ( forearm, grill) are different among some of the different vac form venders out there. So who's right and who's not? You cant tell me from one vac form vendor to another that every piece thats made is 100% the exact same? Even other 3d modelers its impossible for all of them to be 100% exact. Some items could look wrong by how one percieves them or how a photo was taken. I didnt see any mentions in the crl stating that the back tank for example has to be a exact width or depth? Same with how GA chest and back meet at the top of the shoulder, that spot where they meet is covered anyway by fabic and you will never know if they key together or are two blunt ends. Dont take these questions the wrong way, Im not trying to attack you Im just trying to understand what all you pointed out in your review if GA's files does it make these files not approval in any crl biker or shadow scout level one? I do apprceiate the long and extencive work you put into reviewing GA's files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 2 hours ago, ScottTubbs said: My question about your comprehensive review of GA files is are you implying they dont match up to the original movie accurate armor they made long ago? If one is going for just level one non movie screen accurate but crl approveable that are these files still wrong? I trying to understand what all you pointed out with the GA files. I did purchase these file awhile ago with the intent to get approved, that said I dont care if its level one or two... just another approved costume I can troop in. Im going the way of all satin black shadow scout style and I know there is a difference in the look of the all white vs all black. I have already had these files printed and painted everything to what I am lead to belive they are in compliance to shadow scout the crl. I did notice some of the greeblies were not accurate and remodeled them myself to look like what others look like, but I've noticed those same greeblies ( forearm, grill) are different among some of the different vac form venders out there. So who's right and who's not? You cant tell me from one vac form vendor to another that every piece thats made is 100% the exact same? Even other 3d modelers its impossible for all of them to be 100% exact. Some items could look wrong by how one percieves them or how a photo was taken. I didnt see any mentions in the crl stating that the back tank for example has to be a exact width or depth? Same with how GA chest and back meet at the top of the shoulder, that spot where they meet is covered anyway by fabic and you will never know if they key together or are two blunt ends. Dont take these questions the wrong way, Im not trying to attack you Im just trying to understand what all you pointed out in your review if GA's files does it make these files not approval in any crl biker or shadow scout level one? I do apprceiate the long and extencive work you put into reviewing GA's files. Hey Scott First off, I've upgraded you to 501st Legion access, welcome! Second - some slight variances in armor from various kit designers is one thing, but several of these 3D file makers add details that aren't in the original kit, or forget to include them, like the way GA's first draft left the rectangle indent off the chest armor. Or the way several 3D helmet designers try to put real vents into the helmets or don't separate the tank from the back armor. So while the overall shape may be right, they fall down on the details, some of which are needed for Level 1. As we are fond of saying around here: propmakers don't decide our standards, we do. And our standards are dictated by the film sources, not by mistakes 3D modelers make. GA tends to rip his files from the Battlefront games, and those games take a lot of shortcuts and liberties with the source material. Sure they might look fine on your TV, but not so accurate in real life. What Justin did with his review is to give GA pointers toward making his armor as accurate as possible. There's nothing at all wrong with that and if we can get a source of 3D files out there can be used for Level 1 and Level 2, I don't see the harm. Especially if GA is more than happy to make the changes, as he has been thus far. But here's the thing -- you're making a Shadow Scout. This Detachment has no authority on that CRL, that's the purview of Spec Ops. Spec Ops may be totally fine with the original GA files as-is (though I find it hard to believe they'd be okay with a chest piece that was missing the rectangular indent). So you really need to check with them, as well as your local GML, to see if there are any changes you need to make. I hope that answers some of your questions. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottTubbs Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Yes it does and I do agree with you and again I wasn't meaning any harm or disrespect. The files I have from GA must be his most recent updates. The chest piece does have the rectangle indent. The back tank when placed on the back armor does appear to be raised up a bit do it looks separated. I guess reading his finding I knew I wasn't in the spec ops forum but figured it's the same armor just painted black. I tongue like the other above and filled in the lines and markings on the back tank and will use gloss black vinyl. I knew GA tends to used images from Battle front. I agree most the files I've used of GA tend to need modifications to make them right. Thanks for the upgrade. I'm new to this group and like most groups everybody does things a little different. Again my apologies if I came off crossed. I'm just trying to be clear on things and not waste a ton of time building to be told it's wrong. My first approved costume took nearly 9 months to get approved, but being I was the CRL for it I can understand trying to get the details right the first time for everybody can take some time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookBehindYou Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 Just got an email from GA yesterday, hes updated the files to hopefully be closer to approval. I haven’t had a chance to look at them yet as I’m way past printing and hopefully made enough changes and swapped pieces for approval on my own kit, but just wanted to give a heads up. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottTubbs Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 I too received the updated files. Simple I had to reprint the tank on the back and its greeble. Reprinted the shoulder armor too since the new ones are not as pointy. Filled the indention on the ends of the belt easy fix so now no slot is present, and a single rivet will be only seen to hold the strap. Though they fixed where the front and back armor meet at the shoulder (keyway thing) didn't see no need to change the armor since its covered up anyway. Now it's time to add all the straps to the pieces. Yes, I'm doing a shadow scout but basically its all the same but all black. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kami-son009 Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Does anybody have any advice in attaching flip up visor with the galactic armory bolts? I do not know how to get them to stay in place and function! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 @Chopper @MrPoopie Do you have any advice for this trooper? Thank you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPoopie Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 Sorry, I don't have an experience with the helmet other than working with the 3D files themselves. I've never seen it printed in person. I also don't have the final files just the working files when we were evaluating so some parts such as the bolts were not separate pieces yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookBehindYou Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 On 6/11/2024 at 1:19 AM, Kami-son009 said: Does anybody have any advice in attaching flip up visor with the galactic armory bolts? I do not know how to get them to stay in place and function! Thanks! Is it not just three pieces anymore? The back, top and visor/front? That’s how it was for mine when I did it earlier this year and the visor with the bolt pieces just squeezed onto the helmet where the holes were. It kept in place on its own for the most part unless I lean face down quick it’ll start to open which I’m figuring out a way to keep it in place. But other than that it didn’t seem much of an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kami-son009 Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 2 hours ago, LookBehindYou said: Is it not just three pieces anymore? The back, top and visor/front? That’s how it was for mine when I did it earlier this year and the visor with the bolt pieces just squeezed onto the helmet where the holes were. It kept in place on its own for the most part unless I lean face down quick it’ll start to open which I’m figuring out a way to keep it in place. But other than that it didn’t seem much of an issue. It still is three pieces, the bolts that I printed for it don’t hold it in place though. Here is a picture of it where it’s supposed to go but it doesn’t hold put Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookBehindYou Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 35 minutes ago, Kami-son009 said: It still is three pieces, the bolts that I printed for it don’t hold it in place though. Here is a picture of it where it’s supposed to go but it doesn’t hold put oh wow, that seems like a different design. I’ll have to download the new files to look. Here is how it originally was. You’ll have to zoom in but you can see on the left of the picture the hole, and on the right the post (bolt) that goes in it. You essentially have to spread it to light it up, then release the sides to so the posts (bolts) sit in the holes. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookBehindYou Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 If those bolts aren’t actually part of the print in that it’s a hole on the helmet originally (I know the bolt on the visor is separate), I would think you’d use only one on the visor that goes through it and into the hole on the helmet. Maybe gluing to the visor and held into the helmet hole with resistance like the original version. Or not use the printed ones at all and use the original 3m version (not sure if that’s right but you can find on these forums). Edit. The more I keep looking the more I get why he separated the bolts. Easier to paint, then put in the visor holes and glue. Then just attach through the hole on the helmet held by resistance. At least that’s what I’m thinking was the intent. But again, at that point, not knowing if it’d work, but I’d look at using the original type of bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMike Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 16 minutes ago, Kami-son009 said: It still is three pieces, the bolts that I printed for it don’t hold it in place though. Here is a picture of it where it’s supposed to go but it doesn’t hold put This design seems new. Before, the bolt used to be attached to the visor part and there was a hole on the back part where your current bolt is (Image 1 for reference). What I did to make mines functional was drill a hole and put in a screw with a washer to keep it tightened so the visor doesn't keep falling down and did the same for the other side (image 2). Since I drilled through the visor, I made a fake circular cover for it (image 3). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 Have you reached out to the vendor for more information? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kami-son009 Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 1 hour ago, Chopper said: Have you reached out to the vendor for more information? Yea, I sent an email today! Thanks for the help everyone, after seeing y’all’s I think it’s starting to make more sense. I think I am supposed to glue the rotating bolt to the visor while it’s in the back part and then glue the cap covering it. I might try and reprint the bolts so the inserts fit more securely. I could have messed with the scaling of it when I sized it to match the helmet, if I remember correctly I kept the depth (y if it’s standing on its side?)of it at 100% but I will reprint at 101 and see if that helps! again thanks for everything! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_wook Posted October 25 Share Posted October 25 On 1/31/2024 at 12:02 AM, MrPoopie said: Below is a review of the current Galactic Armory ROTJ Scout 3D model files. Please review this before beginning your GA build as there are many items that do not currently meet the CRL. These can be adjusted and fixed to meet the CRL with some work by any of you willing to build this kit. With all this being said we are working closely with GA and they have agreed to update the files to more closely meet the current ROTJ Scout CRL. The timeframe is still TBD but most likely it will be soon. If you are unsure about something on this list please just ask and we will do our best to help make sense of it. Galactic Armory ROTJ Scout Trooper CRL Adjustments (01-11-24) Helmet • Edges around visor are a bit sharp and should be softened. • When visor is viewed in profile there is a slight wavy curve, this should be straight. • Bolts should have a softer edge to the concave center. (Figure H-01 & H-02) • Snout Greeble is not accurate. (Figure H-03) • Helmet bolts could be separated for use of other style bolts. • Front edge of dome just barely meets up with the visor and could be a bit longer. • Snout area could be made flat to allow for other snout greebles to be used. Shoulder Armor • Top middle of shoulder comes to a bit of a point and should be more rounded. Chest Armor • Grey box area should have smoother edges to give a softer appearance. • Chest and back shoulder bridges are “keyed”. This is not unacceptable, just odd. Back Armor • Tank is a bit too shallow, should protrude more in the back. (Figure B-01, B-02 & B-03) • Smooth the curve on the area between the shoulder bridges and the sides. (Figure H-04) Belt & Hip Box • Cutouts at rear for straps should not exist. Only a single rivet hole should be present. (Figure BL-01 & BL-02) • The edges of boxes could smooth out a bit more to give a softer appearance. • Rectangles between boxes are not necessary, it’s just an artifact of pulling ABS kits. (Figure BL-03 & BL-04) • Strap slot opening on hip boxes is a bit large. It should a be a slight indentation with a slot in the middle. (Figure HB-01, HB-02, HB-03 & HB-04) Thermal Detonator • Greebles should be separate pieces. • Remove “Zip Tie” section in the middle and replace with 2 holes on top and bottom of where “Zip Tie” was. (Figure TD-02) • Area above larger greeble should not indent upwards on upper lip. (Figure TD-01) • Tube should have a slight curve. (Figure TD-04 & TD-05) • Endcaps should be flat with a concave surface. No indentation. • Rectangle Greeble is not accurate. (Figure TD-02 & TD-03) Knee Armor • Needs holes for rivets. (Figure K-01) Holster • Should appear to be 2 separate parts, the main body and the straps that go around the blaster. • The strap thickness is also really thick. Not sure what's needed for structural integrity but the actual holster strap was only the thickness of an abs sheet. • Strap should not protrude below the bottom line where it fits into the main body. (Figure BH-01) • Oval embossed area on the front of strap should be slightly wider. (Figure BH-02 & BH-03) • 5 Vents on strap should be cut through. (Figure BH-02 & BH-03) • The rear side of the holster is very angular and boxy, whereas the screen holster is more graduated. • There should be rivet holes in each corner of the holster body. Link to Figure Images Are these requirements still prevailing with the updated files? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted October 25 Share Posted October 25 The vendor has updated their files to fix the issues we raised. It's not the best model, but it should meet basic clearance requirements. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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