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Plasma (Larry) Patrol Trooper WIP


Plasma

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I thought it was time I created a WIP and started asking stupid questions.

Re: the Thermal Detonator. I am trying to work out from photos, the CRL and even the Hot Toys figure, how the right hand cap is painted. I have painted the black ring. Is it now just a matter of painting the knurled edge black or should the black extend either side of the knurled edge onto the flat surfaces a little?

 

 

 

IMG_4843.jpeg

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Thanks. Sadly, that has confused me more. The video shows a different design for the part in question and has the black painted on the returns. That I get. But mine (MrPoopie may chip in here) is different. What should I do? 

I also note that the inner ring on that part is white and not black as I thought it was and have painted it. No biggie, I can repaint it but which is right?

Spray cans at the ready.......

 

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9 hours ago, Plasma said:

I thought it was time I created a WIP and started asking stupid questions.

Re: the Thermal Detonator. I am trying to work out from photos, the CRL and even the Hot Toys figure, how the right hand cap is painted. I have painted the black ring. Is it now just a matter of painting the knurled edge black or should the black extend either side of the knurled edge onto the flat surfaces a little?

 

 

 

IMG_4843.jpeg

Hot toys:

598px-Patrol_Trooper3.jpg

CRL:

Patrol_Trooper_TD.png

Hope that helps!

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If you purchased files from me there is a newer version of the endcap that should make it easier to paint as it has an indent on the end. Just go re-download the newer file. If not, it should look like the image below. The black area underneath the "cap" section that you're seeing on the Hot Toys model is just weathering in the cracks which makes it seem darker.

 

50373669877_8f4a122e06_b.jpg

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10 hours ago, MrPoopie said:

If you purchased files from me there is a newer version of the endcap that should make it easier to paint as it has an indent on the end. Just go re-download the newer file. If not, it should look like the image below. The black area underneath the "cap" section that you're seeing on the Hot Toys model is just weathering in the cracks which makes it seem darker.

 

50373669877_8f4a122e06_b.jpg

PM sent.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So far. Helmet complete (I hope) This is not the MrPoopie one, but I may print his after completing all the other armour. The 3D printer is working overtime and the back/front chest armour is assembeled. I am now printing the ab parts, then on to the legs.


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Help!

I have printed the shins for one leg and immediately see a problem. Even without boots (not yet purchased), I cannot fit my 11.5 (USA) shoe size foot into the shin without first rotating it 180 degrees, then back when on. Of course I cannot do this with the shin attached to the boot. Am I missing something? Will I have to print an elongated rear lower shin part to accommodate my feet?

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My shins are attached to my boots and I can get them on just fine. the loop on that shin looks the wrong shape. can you post a better photo of it?

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They look the right shape there. It may be a case of the loop is not big enough. It should not be tight.

4618ff1f8e6d7acff1fd70253438ada6.jpg

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Thanks. I think I will have to wait until I have the boots to resolve it. I need a good couple of cm for my foot to pass thru. The fit of the shin, its length and the rear calf all seem to work and look right. I may also end up reprinting the foot parts if the boots are big.

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My shin attaches to my boots with snaps at the top. It allows me to slip my foot through ( at a weird angle) then I turn the shin in place and snap it to the boot and then zip up. I also have a modified version of the shin file which had a slightly larger loop which was actually modified for someone else. It might help you if you still have trouble after getting your boots.

Check out the section with the boots on the Patrol Trooper CRL video that was posted recently. It should help make more sense of what I'm describing. 

 

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7 hours ago, MrPoopie said:

My shin attaches to my boots with snaps at the top. It allows me to slip my foot through ( at a weird angle) then I turn the shin in place and snap it to the boot and then zip up. I also have a modified version of the shin file which had a slightly larger loop which was actually modified for someone else. It might help you if you still have trouble after getting your boots.

Check out the section with the boots on the Patrol Trooper CRL video that was posted recently. It should help make more sense of what I'm describing. 

Thanks Justin, 

I think I may need an elongated lower loop but of course, I need to have the boots to make sure it all fits. So, boots!

 

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On another matter:

I came across this photo on the Armoryshop. Although perhaps a little excessive, I like the rust effect. My question is, given that light weathering is allowed for the Patrol Trooper, would this effect, used moderately, be acceptable as weathering (which is what rust is of course), or would it be considered damage?

image.png.3c816942664d51e26df9820a9b4644aa.pngcb362cdc9eca531af39aee473b56177b.jpg

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That would be excessive damage. Tou can use a bit of brown with your weathering in the creases as a rust effect so long as it doesn't go overboard. Overall it's still minimal weathering. The boots can have more since they're further down. 

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1 hour ago, MrPoopie said:

That would be excessive damage. Tou can use a bit of brown with your weathering in the creases as a rust effect so long as it doesn't go overboard. Overall it's still minimal weathering. The boots can have more since they're further down. 

I agree. Less is more. I guess I prefer the messy look over the shiny one. I will experiment judiciously.

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Don't get me wrong it looks cool and goes along with corrosive idea of Corellia's shipyards but alas it's not seen that way in the film or on the toys. It makes a great show piece. 

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This amount of weathering is within bounds. Looks good. 

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4 hours ago, MrPoopie said:

This amount of weathering is within bounds. Looks good. 

Phew! Thanks. I think I am inclined to use much less on the rest of the armour. Maybe a little so that the helmet doesnt look odd in that respect but certainly less. Maybe a little on the chest, back and shins. I used a four colour process to paint the rust with acrylics, channeling the artist within me.

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When you weather it think of what parts would get dirty the most.

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12 minutes ago, Hask said:

When you weather it think if what parts would get dirty the most.

Indeed. I’m mindful of it pooling and rusting in crevices while running and staining in places. Of course, using the bike would mean more weathering to the front as opposed to the rear. I am not looking to be known as “Old Rusty”….. :)

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On 2/17/2024 at 10:45 AM, Plasma said:

Help!

I have printed the shins for one leg and immediately see a problem. Even without boots (not yet purchased), I cannot fit my 11.5 (USA) shoe size foot into the shin without first rotating it 180 degrees, then back when on. Of course I cannot do this with the shin attached to the boot. Am I missing something? Will I have to print an elongated rear lower shin part to accommodate my feet?

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I couldn't help but laugh when I saw these pictures,I have the exact same problem!🤣

Edited by Mandrake
Mistake
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What I have to do is bend my foot into a angle to be able to get my foot to slide down through the boot and armour 'hoop' and then flatten my foot into the sole of the boots... hopefully that makes sense,at least you know you aren't the only one with the problem ;) excellent job on the weathering of the helmet by the way,it looks natural and like it's meant to be there!

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