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Posted

Hey all! Working on my ROTJ Scout Trooper using a Studio Creations pre-cut kit, but full-disclosure: I have so much anxiety about assembly since this was a costly purchase for me and I have limited experience with the tools. Will need a lot of hand holding and I appreciate all the help I can get. 

I've watched build videos for RS Prop masters and other styles, but I haven't come across any specific to the SC armor set. We'll see how it goes. 

Today I am working on Chest and back armor, specifically measuring out and cutting slots for the 1.5" elastic in the indentation on the sides of the armor. I've attached a picture to illustrate my questions.

 

From what I have read it sounds like the slot should be cut as close to the small end (Side B I call it), but that end is shorter than 1.5", measuring at 1.25". If I cut there I'll also be cutting into the curvature of the indentation. To avoid cutting into the rounded sides of the indentation, I'd need to cut closer to the center (the red line on the left). Is this acceptable or does the cut NEED to be right up to the smaller end (side B). 

Last, should my cut be angled to be perpendicular to the indentation or more straight?

Thanks in advance!

Scout Strap Cut.jpg

Posted

Ideally you would want to get the cut closest to the indent, which you have marked on line B.

Note the strapping from the screen used armor below.

MOTM_7825.jpg

MOTM_10999.jpg

You can cut into the indent a bit, in order to fit the strap. Alternatively, you can also switch to 1.5 inch white elastic material, which is allowed by the CRL, provided the color matches the other strapping. The elastic may fit better into the smaller cut. The photos below are from a Mando Scout Lancer application that had a similar issue.

6bcd8b9ea367d470d0f3a6e8e1b248a8.jpg
806576e614e36aca8aa9e97d5e559940.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Any tips on getting the tank to lay flush with the backpiece? Should I fill in any gaps with bondo or continue making very small cuts/shaving away areas that are keeping the tank from lining up. 

IMG_5257.jpg

IMG_5256.jpg

IMG_5255.jpg

IMG_5257.jpg

Posted

Bondo or seam filling is not needed. You can continue making micro adjustments, but it doesn't need to fit perfectly flush -- they didn't in the film either. 

Belt%20rivet.jpg

ROTJ%20pouches%20tank.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

To add to what @Chopper said -- it's not just that the tanks were not flush.  They were made to be detachable.   The tanks were held to the back armor with a 1/2 inch elastic strap.  Which is why you see them sliding all over the place in the film.  If you want Level 2, you need to maintain this look.

If you want to see how I attached my tank, check out this link:

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I realize this thread should probably belong in the WIP section which I found after starting it. D'oh!

Anyway, Worked on my helmet yesterday with 1fern0 and we made some decent progress. I'm planning to paint the inner part of the snout black, but having trouble finding the guides I have previously seen that touch on proper way to lay tape, and what type of paint to use. I'm going to keep hunting, but if anyone has a quick link handy for snout painting, please let me know!

Posted

Moved to the WIP subforum.

To paint the black snout area, you want to use flat black spray paint. You'll need to mask the area before painting. I like using the Scotch blue sharp lines brand and the 3M 1/8" artists curve tape for the top arched section. The black portion typically extends slightly over the indent edge for the snout greeblie. These photos from the Scoutopedia may help:

Blu%20Ray%20Helmet.jpg

SWH%20Biker%2013.jpg

SWH%20Biker%2008.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I made a template for my SC bucket if you wanted to use that. I really wanted a nice curved line on mine and didn't trust myself to do it by hand.

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22421-KOtrooper's-Biker-Scout-build#entry209174


Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Chopper! I'll need to pick up some of that 3M tape to work that curve. And KOtrooper your thread is exactly the one I was looking for earlier! Will post results when its painted

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