nateopotato Posted May 27, 2022 Share Posted May 27, 2022 And so it begins, this long journey of my first build and it's going to be a ROTJ Biker Scout Trooper. My first part arrived. It's the helmet bolts. These are the Fibre-Metal by Honeywell FM4001 Quick-Lok Helmet Adapter Kit that I purchased from Amazon. I have two questions; 1) Do I need to sand/file down the mold seams that are through the center of the grey parts? 2) Is the dip/divot/dimple in the center of the grey parts deep enough (they just seem shallow, but it's there) for potential future Lancer approval? Thank you for any feedback, Nate 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted May 27, 2022 Share Posted May 27, 2022 Nate, they're good as is. No modifications are needed. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 GLOVES I just received my Wampa Wear, XL Biker Scout gloves. I trimmed off the loops that held the clips. They fit well with no flare. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted June 14, 2022 Share Posted June 14, 2022 Just make sure they still fit well over the undersuit! I have made that mistake before… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted August 25, 2022 Author Share Posted August 25, 2022 WIP update: Does it matter what type/shade of black and gray paint is used for the greeblies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 For the black, I would use either primer black or flat black. For the grey, you want to try and find a shade that just about matches the helmet decals. Depending on the brands available near you, you want a medium or neutral gray color. Again, you also want a flat or matte finish. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted October 7, 2022 Author Share Posted October 7, 2022 Was working on the thermal detonator last night. I can't find in the CRL or in the forums what the depth/height (not the diameter or circumference) should be, or if it matters as long as both caps are the same. Pics in the forums seem to be at various depths/heights. Mine are concaved and are about 1 inch high overall (it feels like that's too tall, should be more like 1/2 inch high?). My question about the end caps, what is the approved depth/height of the end caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted October 7, 2022 Share Posted October 7, 2022 We don't require a level of measurement specificity, so long as it's close to the photos in the CRL. 1" height seems high for an end cap, but if you go ahead and put one on the tubing and give us a photo, then we can take a look. What kit did you purchase? Studio Creations? Those greebs you posted earlier look like they're from Mon Cal/Far Away Creations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted October 7, 2022 Author Share Posted October 7, 2022 @Chopper Thank you for the feedback, I can post a picture tonight of one on the tubing. I feel like it needed to be trimmed down more, but wanted to check before removing more material. My kit is from WTF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted October 7, 2022 Share Posted October 7, 2022 Ahhh okay. Yes, in that case the caps will very likely need to be trimmed. Go ahead and post a photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted October 8, 2022 Author Share Posted October 8, 2022 Here are a couple of pics with the TD end caps on and off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 Thanks for the images. Yes, that edge looks too long. If you look at the images in the Scoutopedia you'll see a good comparison of about where it should be trimmed: I would trim yours to about here: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted October 8, 2022 Author Share Posted October 8, 2022 Thank you @Chopper I appreciate the help/feedback. I'll tweak it accordingly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted November 16, 2022 Author Share Posted November 16, 2022 I believe my Thermal Detonator is complete. I found a neat way to connect the end caps to the tubing. I utilized a 1-1/2 inch plastic sink tailpiece that you can get at your hardware/big box store. I bought a double-ended tailpiece version since I needed two flanged ends, this way I only had to buy one part instead of two. I cut the ends off the tailpiece (leaving about 1 inch), then E6000 glued the flange side to the end cap (didn't take a pic of this, but can if anyone is curious). The tailpiece has a good snug friction fit into the tubing, I didn't need to glue it. And here's the final Thermal Detonator. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 Brilliant adaptation Nate! Well done! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeOfNachos Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 Those things work awesome... those cut sink sleeves aren't going anywhere once you manhandle them in the tube 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted November 17, 2022 Author Share Posted November 17, 2022 More WIP updates: I have the biceps, Forearms, Belt, Drop Boxes and Knees trimmed out and strapped; but only 95% done because I'm still waiting for some soft goods to arrive before I finalize the anchoring/fitting of the straps. I don't want to finish the straps now without having a soft goods fitting and risk the straps being too tight or loose (I did finish the Knees top strap though as that's all the 1/2 inch material I had left). BICEPS FOREARMS KNEES BELT DROP BOXES Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeOfNachos Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 Looking great there! I’ve yet to do the top strap on my knees, it’s a bear to figure straping especially the elastic when it stretches, I wish there was a hard and fast formula for figuring them out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 3 minutes ago, DukeOfNachos said: Looking great there! I’ve yet to do the top strap on my knees, it’s a bear to figure straping especially the elastic when it stretches, I wish there was a hard and fast formula for figuring them out. Secure one side of it, leave the other loose, pull the elastic over until it feels right, then mark where it should be with chalk, or tape. Also, the top elastic on the knee armor is optional. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 Was working on the Tank last night, no clear trim lines on the mold, so I've been attempting to eye ball it. I know what it's supposed to look like, but having a mind block trying to translate it to the Tank. I'm concerned that I'm going to trim too much or make it wonky. I want to avoid starting over. Any ideas/insight/feedback on the trimming is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 Hm, I hate to say it, but you may have trimmed too much off the bottom of the tank. That lip on the bottom is meant to fit against the bottom edge of the back armor. See ref photo below. You might be able to angle it a bit, as I've marked in the photo. Go slow and take off a little at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 Thanks @Chopper, I appreciate it. I'll continue as suggested. Fingers crossed I can make it work. Also the tricky bit is that the bottom part of the lip (red line) is where the mold stopped (before it flattened out to scraps), so not much lip was available below the red line to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 Ah okay. Yeah, the WTF pulls can be a bit hard to tell where to trim. I'd take a pencil and work on getting the bottom lip to match the bottom of the back armor, then transition to the sides. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateopotato Posted December 16, 2022 Author Share Posted December 16, 2022 Ok, I think I've sorted out the tank now (still need to sand it, glue topper, rivets, elastic strap and do decals). Let me know if I've missed something. Before I glue the tank topper on and do the rivets, based on what I can see from the CRL, Scoutopedia and pics from other posts; I'm wondering about the placement of the rivet on the tank lip, I think my green circle is a good spot. I believe I need to trim the back plate some more, so the tank lip meets the back plate bottom, my red lines are where I think I need to trim. Any feedback/insight is appreciated please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 Great job trimming the tank. Looks great. Green circle looks fine for the bottom rivet. Yes, you can trim along the the red line at the bottom if you'd like. The red cut line looks fine, but you might want to draw it in pencil first to double check. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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