Shoretrooper 3D build

[damojamo1979]

I have a 3D printer and i'm interested in making a Shoretrooper costume. 

Any help or advice would be welcome.

TIA

[Minimo]

Hiya and welcome! Certainly a doable tasks.
Two main files out there.

“MR Paul Shoretrooper build” for which there is a fee and are arguably the most accurate. You can also get free files from “Sean Fields”

For the bucket “Nico Henderson” has a good one for a fee. “Sean Fields” also has a free bucket file.


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[KOtrooper]

I'd recommend PLA+ or PETG. On high stress parts of the armor, you might want to try putting some fiberglass on the backside.

Don't worry about printing in high detail for larger parts. Doing a .3 vs. .2 layer height will be faster and look just the same.

[damojamo1979]

I've bought a load of Black PLA+ so i'm ready to start printing. Any recommendations on which bits to prints first etc?

[Minimo]

I've bought a load of Black PLA+ so i'm ready to start printing. Any recommendations on which bits to prints first etc?

Go for the bucket!!!


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[Kilika]

Good morning,

I would agree with Minimo and go with the bucket first. I am currently working on a Sean Field's set and the "moral boost" from seeing the bucket come together helps a lot. I see my WIP bucket every time I go into my building area which helps as a visual reminder of the "end state" as I am slowly piecing together the other parts of the armor.

I wish you the best with the build. 

Cheers

Chris

[damojamo1979]

Awesome, thanks guys. 

Also, can someone give me a link on how to actually build. 

TIA

[Kilika]

TIA,

If you downloaded your files from https://shoretrooper.co.uk/ there should actually be instructions in the Version 2 Helmet folder you can open as is. They show step by step how to assemble the bucket which was super helpful.

As for the rest of the armor I would look at the completed STL file of the piece and figure out how each subfile would fit into the "puzzle".  

Cheers

Chris

[damojamo1979]

On 8/22/2021 at 10:31 PM, KOtrooper said:

I'd recommend PLA+ or PETG. On high stress parts of the armor, you might want to try putting some fiberglass on the backside.

Don't worry about printing in high detail for larger parts. Doing a .3 vs. .2 layer height will be faster and look just the same.

Would you count the helmet amongst the 'larger parts'? 

I'm just about ready to start printing the Nico helmet. 

nervous!!!

[KOtrooper]

Would you count the helmet amongst the 'larger parts'? 
I'm just about ready to start printing the Nico helmet. 
nervous!!!

Yeah, I'd print it at .3. For the greeblies, I'd print as detailed as you can.

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[damojamo1979]

13 minutes ago, KOtrooper said:

Yeah, I'd print it at .3. For the greeblies, I'd print as detailed as you can.

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Awesome, thank you very much. As you can tell i'm fairly new to this 3D printing! haha

[KOtrooper]

Awesome, thank you very much. As you can tell i'm fairly new to this 3D printing! haha

It's so fun. You'll have mistakes but that's all part of the process of learning.

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[damojamo1979]

Progress being made on my helmet

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[Minimo]

Awesome!


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[damojamo1979]

Another thing I need to ask....

Before I start 3D printing my armour, I was wondering what experiences people have had trooping in printed armour?
I've heard and read conflicting things.
Some say PLA is not good for trooping in whilst others have had no problems.

I'd like to get some feedback before I start printing it.

TIA

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[KOtrooper]

PLA has a lower melt point than PETG or ABS so just don't leave it in your car on a hot day.

I'd reinforce any stress points with fiberglass or glue nylon webbing inside the armor.

Personally, I like working with PETG now over PLA. The PVC glue I use bonds really nice and the entire thing sands well.

My E22 is PLA and I cracked it once. Very easy to fix and hide the break.

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[Aradun]

As KOTrooper said, you don’t want to leave PLA unattended in a hot car or store your armor in a garage or area that can get hot, as it could cause your armor to warp. PLA is pretty easy to work with. I like it a lot, but I too recently started printing with PETG when I wasn’t paying attention and accidentally purchased a spool from Amazon thinking it was PLA. I gotta say, I like it. I’m still trying to get things dialed in with Cura to minimize the stringing, but it feels much more durable and because it needs to print at a much higher temperature it has a higher heat threshold and will be less likely to warp in excessive heat.

I also find PETG easier to sand and finish than PLA.

[damojamo1979]

PLA has a lower melt point than PETG or ABS so just don't leave it in your car on a hot day.

I'd reinforce any stress points with fiberglass or glue nylon webbing inside the armor.

Personally, I like working with PETG now over PLA. The PVC glue I use bonds really nice and the entire thing sands well.

My E22 is PLA and I cracked it once. Very easy to fix and hide the break.

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What do you use the PVC glue for?

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[damojamo1979]

My helmet is finished now, so I'm gonna start printing Paul's files in PETG.
Where should I start first? The smaller bits that don't need splitting?

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[KOtrooper]

What do you use the PVC glue for?

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I used the PVC glue to bond the petg pieces together.

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[damojamo1979]

What infill / wall thickness do you recommend printing at? 

 

[BikerScout007]

3 hours ago, damojamo1979 said:

What infill / wall thickness do you recommend printing at? 

 

You can't go wrong with the Cura defaults of 4 walls at 20% infill.  But I personally don't think you need that much and it can make the parts a little heavy.  2 walls at 10% works well for most parts and allows them to flex a bit (though not as much as pulled ABS).  You may want to do 4 walls/20% infill for heavy stress parts though.  

[damojamo1979]

On 2/1/2022 at 8:00 PM, BikerScout007 said:

You can't go wrong with the Cura defaults of 4 walls at 20% infill.  But I personally don't think you need that much and it can make the parts a little heavy.  2 walls at 10% works well for most parts and allows them to flex a bit (though not as much as pulled ABS).  You may want to do 4 walls/20% infill for heavy stress parts though.  

By heavy stress parts you mean abs, chest etc?

[BikerScout007]

6 minutes ago, damojamo1979 said:

By heavy stress parts you mean abs, chest etc?

No the chest isn't really a stress part.  It's not on a joint or somewhere that's going to be under much pressure.  The collar piece I'd print thicker, because that does bridge two parts.  The greaves might be an area of concern.  Fortunately the Shoretrooper is a hard-soft blend, so a lot of the places where you bend aren't armored.  

The Handplates I'd print at 4 walls -- your hands bump into all kinds of stuff.  Any greebs you print -- make thicker.  They tend to brush up against things and get knocked around.  

@MrPoopie might have some further input

[MrPoopie]

9 minutes ago, BikerScout007 said:

No the chest isn't really a stress part.  It's not on a joint or somewhere that's going to be under much pressure.  The collar piece I'd print thicker, because that does bridge two parts.  The greaves might be an area of concern.  Fortunately the Shoretrooper is a hard-soft blend, so a lot of the places where you bend aren't armored.  

The Handplates I'd print at 4 walls -- your hands bump into all kinds of stuff.  Any greebs you print -- make thicker.  They tend to brush up against things and get knocked around.  

@MrPoopie might have some further input

I agree. Collar should be thicker. Basically the smaller parts should have thicker walls are a little more infill so the details print properly. Knees, hand plates, buckles, more walls and infill. You be surprised how much the weight adds up with more infill and walls and more parts. 8-10% infill for non-stress parts with 2-3 walls with an 0.4 nozzle. If you print with a larger 0.8 nozzle these settings will change (you'll also have more finishing work to do). Cura makes this all very easy.