WIP wannabe Lancer by OnkelPaschulke

[Chopper]

10 minutes ago, OnkelPaschulke said:

Ok, quickly put on the lower parts to show the Cod piece. It needs to be redone aswell as the bound because the sewing is not as good as I want it to be. The problem is that you can draw lines on the fabric but because of the batting the lines seem to be not straight anymore after sewing. Any ideas how to solve this problem?! With the bound it's the problem that the distance of the ribs is not equal and at the cod the curved detail is misaligned. But what do you guys say about the size of the cod? I put some thin foam in the lower part to prevent it from cameltoeing... It worked pretty well. If the size is good as it is I can do them again.

If you're re-doing your cod anyhow, then I believe what you have right now is too narrow. Compare the photo below to your current cod. The edges should be approximately around where your pouches are mounted and the curve is a lot more shallow until it gets closer to the bottom.

 

9 minutes ago, OnkelPaschulke said:

I'll get the jumpsuit to the tailor again to tighten the legs more and I want him to add the thigh patches. Looking at the CRL the upper part should go just a little bit above the curved detail and for the lower part aprox. to the middle of the knee armor, right?

The position of the thigh patches in the CRL isn't an absolute, but yes, what you have proposed will work just fine.

[OnkelPaschulke]

Got the point. Read somewhere that the width of the cod should be somewhere between the center of the belt and the boxes left and right. But yes, I'll redo it a little bit wider

[Chopper]

You might want to try mocking up a cod with heavyweight paper, or cardboard, just to work out the proportions. It takes a lot less work to cut a new piece of cardboard, than it does to sew a new cod.

[Aradun]

You might want to try mocking up a cod with heavyweight paper, or cardboard, just to work out the proportions. It takes a lot less work to cut a new piece of cardboard, than it does to sew a new cod.

That’s what I did. I used a paper template attached it to the bund and then dialed it in with feedback from the armorers. Saves a ton of time and material.

[OnkelPaschulke]

It definately safes time but in the other hand I got some more practise with the sewingmachine… so why not give it a shot?!


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[OnkelPaschulke]

Just a short question regarding the attachement of the shoulder armor. I printed these cable tie buckles and glued velcro underneath. First impression… at least under the shoulder bridge it doesn’t work. Do you guys glue it down or do you use velcro?






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[Chopper]

Arne, one note, since you're working on a Level 2 build -- are those shoulder bridge covers between between .5 inch and 1 inch wide? Hard to tell with the close up.

I've seen some people glue the zip tie mount. Velcro tends to pop off if your arm pulls the bell too hard, but individual mileage may vary.

For my shoulder bell attachments, I skipped the mount and cut a very small hole using an exacto knife on the bottom of my bridge cover and then looped the zip tie through that.

Additionally, you can reference the post from April 22, 2017 in Strider's Lancer build thread, where he talks about his method for mounting the bell attachments.

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/

[sconlon68]

Here's what I did. Hopefully this will help.

I used a strip of scrap ABS with velcro, hook on one side and loop on the other.

I put velcro under the shoulder section of the chest and back armor and used the strip to join the two pieces

I sewed a cabletie onto the elastic loop that covers the armor join at the shoulder.

I use a piece of velcro to keep the elastic loop in place.

I used the cabletie anchor with velcro, inside the shoulder (cut the corners to fit the compound curve better) and then used just the cabletie lock end to hold the shoulder on.

Note: I used 1.5" elastic for the loop, so not level 2, but it's modular so I can swap in lvl 2 loops later.

 

[Chopper]

^^^ That is not exactly the same, but pretty close to what I did.

[sconlon68]

I think I used your design and modded it a slight bit.

 

[BikerScout007]

Also -- don't make loops.  Just cut a strip of fabric and glue it over the join.  It will fit flush against the armor and you'll have plastic underneath to attach the ziptie anchor.  

 

[OnkelPaschulke]

1 hour ago, Chopper said:

Arne, one note, since you're working on a Level 2 build -- are those shoulder bridge covers between between .5 inch and 1 inch wide? Hard to tell with the close up.

I've seen some people glue the zip tie mount. Velcro tends to pop off if your arm pulls the bell too hard, but individual mileage may vary.

For my shoulder bell attachments, I skipped the mount and cut a very small hole using an exacto knife on the bottom of my bridge cover and then looped the zip tie through that.

Additionally, you can reference the post from April 22, 2017 in Strider's Lancer build thread, where he talks about his method for mounting the bell attachments.

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/

It's a little bit wider. But as I need the basic approval first, I'm ok with the cover because it's an easy fix for Lancer. Ok as a result there are different ways and as long it's not visible it's ok! 😁 Maybe I'm trying to glue the anchor on piece of ABS and add some velcro on both sides and bend the ABS to get it into shape under the bridge. If there's more area for the velcro to stick on it should work much better because these small surfaces of the anchor aren't able to stick well to bridge. Understandable?! 😜 I'll do a little test fit on the weekend because I worked on the bound, cod and pouches and I think they should be finde for basic approval (hopefully...)

[OnkelPaschulke]

Well, I did as planned. Cutted some parts of scrap ABS and heated it a little bit to bend it to the shape of the shoulder bridge. Not really round but it worked. After that I glued down the zip tie anchor with e6000 and put velcro on both sides of the ABS part. After the glue dried I put zip tie trough the anchor under the bridge and stuck on another anchor facing toward the shoulder armor. To keep it in place it added another zip tie and cut both to length. I gave it a lot of spare length to adjust it later on. I guess I'll add another anchor at the top of the velcro part in the shoulder to keep it more snough. I'll put in on later this day and take some pictures.

[Chopper]

Nice work Arne. Looks good.

[OnkelPaschulke]

Did another quick test fitting without looking at alligment too much and now with the pictures I see some "problems". I don't have a vest yet. I definately need velcro for the upper and under arm armor, they keep slipping around terribly. The jumpsuit needs to be tailored (and the last logos need to be removed), lower the belt a little bit and maybe raise to pouches a bit. Hard to tell because of the quickness of the fitting. The cod is not sitting good, but especially because of the jumpsuit. Loosen the strapping at the knee armor. Giving more tention on the strapping of the chest armor. But I guess for proportional reasons it's ok. 

[Aradun]

Arne, you look good for just throwing everything on for some test fit photos.

I use hook and loop to lock everything in place so I don’t have any issues during a troop. I pretty much followed Chopper’s guide.

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/

I use h&l for my bicep and forearm armor and it locks it in place nicely. I also use h&l to secure my cod to my flak jacket and that locks it in place too. The strap for the cod connects to the back of the flak jacket. That way the cod is actually keeping the flak jacket from riding up, especially if I’m lifting my arms to wave, etc., and the flak jacket is keeping the cod from shifting and sagging.

I also have a little tab on the back of my bund that has hook and loop on either side. That gets sandwiched between the hook and loop on my belt and keeps the back of the belt from sagging under the weight of the TD.

The only thing I’d do differently is use less hook and loop on the knees. It initially ran the length of the knee from top to bottom and made for a secure fit, but trying to get the knees adjusted when I knelt was a pain! Trust me, you’ll be asked to kneel a lot for large group photos because there’s not many costumes that have that kind of flexibility. Now I just have a 1.5 inch piece at the top and bottom of the knee and it makes adjustments a little quicker and easier.

The belt should rest just below your naval. I have two triangular pieces of loop on the inside of the belt which gets secured to two pieces of hook on my cod.

You’ll probably think of a dozen other adjustments to make as you troop and get used to the fit, feel, and capabilities of the costume.

I love your attention to detail. Keep up the great work.

[Chopper]

2 hours ago, OnkelPaschulke said:

Did another quick test fitting without looking at alligment too much and now with the pictures I see some "problems". I don't have a vest yet. I definately need velcro for the upper and under arm armor, they keep slipping around terribly. The jumpsuit needs to be tailored (and the last logos need to be removed), lower the belt a little bit and maybe raise to pouches a bit. Hard to tell because of the quickness of the fitting. The cod is not sitting good, but especially because of the jumpsuit. Loosen the strapping at the knee armor. Giving more tention on the strapping of the chest armor. But I guess for proportional reasons it's ok.

Arne, I actually think that your belt is about in the right position. The top edge of the belt should sit approximately just under your belly button. Where is it now?

Can you bring your chest and back armor up a bit further? You can test the fit by overlapping the shoulder bridges.

Look at how close the top of the chest armor is to the neck in the photos below. I think addressing that will help bring the pouches up.

 

[OnkelPaschulke]

Thanks @AradunFF and @Chopper for the feedback! It's not only building a costum it's learning some english phrases as well... Naval & Belly Button... 😁 Well, than I guess it is sitting just right. I'm trying to start with the jumpsuit this weekend but I get my third vaccination on friday and I might be destroyed on saturday... we'll see...

I think if the suit sits well it'll influence the whole look. So this is something I want to adress now and after that the vest. Bringing the chest armor up a little bit is no problem. I was unsure what is acceptable so I left the edges of the front and the back matching up almost without any gap but overlapping is no problem at all. Thanks again for all the tips and there will be more in the next few days!

[OnkelPaschulke]

Besides - there is a new janitor on the deathstar. Hopefully joining the ranks of the Rapid Reaction Cleanup Crew https://instagram.com/rapidreactioncleanupcrew?utm_medium=copy_link




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[Aradun]

7 hours ago, OnkelPaschulke said:

It's not only building a costum it's learning some english phrases as well... Naval & Belly Button... 😁

Ahh, der bauchnabel 😉

[OnkelPaschulke]

3. Buckets on - Part 1

First of all a happy new year by a hopefully soon-to-be Pathfinder! The last weeks I couldn't really work on the scout because I got my booster vaccination into an infection and I was locked in bad for a whole week, a to do in the office, you all know the game... 😁 But I decided to start with the helmet because it will take some time to get it finished and it's the part I'm most affraid of... 😛

I got myself a RS helmet during their last special sale wave. They are roughly trimmed so the first step was to trim the two halves to fit together. I wish I had a belt sander because this would have made it much easier. First of all what do you guys say. Do I have to trimm this edge a little bit more?

I cut ABS parts and glued the big part into the top of the dome and two small strips down the lines to glue the parts together. I haven't glued the halves together yet because I'll sand the one half a little bit more. I kept the cutted RS ABS parts to make some sludge. I never made sludge. Basically you put ABS into acetone, right? I guess there are no exacat measurements for the acetone. How should the consistency of the sludge be? And how should it be sanded down?

[Chopper]

That edge looks fine. You might want to sand it a bit more with a nail file or a piece of 400 or 600 grit sandpaper.

As for the ABS paste, have I already linked this post from whitearmor? That should give you an idea of the proportions/consistency. It's not an exact science.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

I apply the sludge with a tongue depressor, or popsicle stick, then I let it cure for about a day. Once its fully cured, you can sand it down as if it were regular plastic. Start with lower grit sandpaper, and work it to 400 or 600 grit to smooth it out.

Try applying it on a small area first, so you can get the hang of it.

[OnkelPaschulke]

Thanks@Chopper this fisd post is gold!


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[OnkelPaschulke]

Just a short update from the jumpsuit. The tailor did the suede riding patches. Next thing is to tighten the legs a little more, get rid of the small bag on the right side of the leg, drill out the buttons and get the hight for the thigh straps.

I'll do a little dress up after tightening the legs to get the hight for the straps.

[Retrofire]

This is coming along great Arne! On the straps you’re going to want those snug against your thigh. Not too tight or too loose.