WIP wannabe Lancer by OnkelPaschulke

[Chopper]

Rivet marking on the bottom looks about right. Tank topper position looks good too.

 

[OnkelPaschulke]

Thanks@chopper btw. is there really a need for adding additional strapping inside the tank or are two rivets enough to keep it fixed? The tank is riveted to the back. I just saw it in your thread with the how to keep the stuff in place.


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[Chopper]

Well, SC has that "shelf" on the back armor for you to rivet the tank topper/tank though. That alone, plus the 0.5 inch elastic strap should be enough to keep it fixed in place.

Most armor makers and the earlier SC kits didn't have that shelf, which is why I went with the additional internal strapping. I think you'll probably be ok with just the rivet.

 

[OnkelPaschulke]

Alright, I'll just try the rivets first and than we'll see. Finished the knee and shoulder armor as well. Nevermind the horrible sewing for the shoudler strapping. I'll redo it next weekend. Went out of black yarn and the white one was horrible... The strapping for the knee will be shortened so the white won't be visible. Finished the belt aswell but lightning is not so good so I'll take some more during the next days.

 

Shoulder Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. (check - not weatherd) Black elastic secures the armor around upper arm. (check) These pieces are free of any adornment. (check)

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around bicep with a 1/2 inch (12mm) black elastic strap. (check) Bottom corners are rounded. (check) Height of shoulder bell approximates screen used sources. (suit up) Shoulder bells have appearance of being affixed to shoulder joins using black zip ties. (need to attached) Knee Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. (check - not weatherd) Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. (check) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has two elastic straps: The upper strap is 12mm (1/2 inch) wide and is riveted to the top sides of the knee armor with two (2) 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets. (check) The lower strap may be 12mm (1/2 inch) or 20mm (3/4 inch) wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor. (check) That's it for today. Good night, good fight! 🤘

[OnkelPaschulke]

Just a quick shot of the attached tank and the shoulder stripes. Unfortunately a little bit of e6000 was squeezed from under the top greeblie. Need to clean ist up. I riveted the tank on the top from the bottom and attached the .5 strapping aswell.







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[Retrofire]

That's looking really good Arne! You can probably use an exacto chisel blade and gently clean up that excess E6000. Really clean build so far!

I'd like to also mention how clean and organized your workbench is! I'm a firm believer in mise en place when it comes to my work area too👍

[Chopper]

You can also try some 90% iso alcohol on the excess E6000. Sometimes iso alcohol plus a q-tip will get it off too.

[OnkelPaschulke]

Thanks [mention=78900]Retrofire[/mention] and [mention=83045]Chopper[/mention]
There is definately a learning curve to the whole project. But the workbench does not always look that clean and it's still far from beeing organized (at least for my liking)
Well, got some Iso alcohol here. I'll try the alcohol variant first before scraping with an exacto.

[OnkelPaschulke]

Can I get some opinions on the dog bone?




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[Chopper]

I think it looks great. No issues as far as I can tell.

[OnkelPaschulke]

I was so excited by all those pictures of you trying out the armor that I decided to first try to put on the "finished" parts... 😁 And oh boy... that felt awesome!!! Don't mind if some armor parts keep slipping arround it was just a quick try out. No strapping and attaching with velcro etc. Man I can't wait to finish this build! 😂

[Chopper]

Nice Arne. You're almost there.

[Aradun]

Dude! Awesome! You’re nearing the finish line. Keep it up Arne!

[M.J]

OMG Arne love the look on your face...

You're doing a great job.

[OnkelPaschulke]

2. These Boots are made for walking - Part 3

Alright at least I'm trying to stick to my plan of documentating the steps for each parts. As I said some weeks ago our sewing machine got one with the force and I had to buy a new one. Got a new one and first try "sewing" some of the strapping and the results were.... yeah, ok... the lower thread always looked f***d up... well after some research I got to the point that sewing elastics needs some special settings and needles to look good. But because the seams are not visible Iand they keep the parts together I was fine with it. But I learned my lesson and before going over to the boots I got myself some info on how to sew vinyl. One important info was that the top side with the decor tends to stick to the sewing foot and there are special sewing foots for leather and vinyl. If you don't have one you can use baking paper instead to suport the sliding of the material.

After meassuring the calves I cut out a corresponding part out of the vinyl. First I turned over the top and sew it with the baking paper and after that the 1/2 inch velcro with the left/right and right/left closure for the back of the boots. In the inside of the right boot I attached and additional velcro loop to keep the boot up while wearing the blaster. I'm trying to already install as much tweaks from @Chopper tipps on how to keep the stuff together.

The first test fitting looked pretty good so I decided to go on. Didn't took any fotos of the glueing process but in general I used some e6000 to glue the calves to the boots. And after some drying they sticked pretty good to the boots. I wouldn't put one the boots by pulling on the calves but I guess they arn't intended for doing so. For the dog bone I used a template and cut out the dog bone and did some tests with right positioning of the dog bone. Just adding the two stitching lines on the bones and they were finished. I glued them down with some super glue.

Almost on the finish line now I've got two questions according the holster. The masking tape is almost 1/2 inch should I cut the top of the holster to make it shorter? And what about the position? Is it ok this way?

Another question I have is regarding the bootleg. Do you guys put some additional material inside to keep it from crumbeling? During my first dress up they seem to crumble because of the jumpsuit. But the legs of the jumpsuit still needs to be adjusted and maybe this will help.

[Aradun]

Hey Arne, great job on those boots. Fantastic in fact. Love the tip on the baking paper too. Never heard of that one. As for crumpling of the boots, many will sew an elastic strap to the inside of the boot with the holster which wraps around the calf and it keeps it from sagging under the weight.

I also have an elastic strap on my undersuit that is sewn in so that it fits under the arch of my foot. That keeps the pant leg from bunching up in the boot by keeping everything taunt.

[Chopper]

6 hours ago, OnkelPaschulke said:

Almost on the finish line now I've got two questions according the holster. The masking tape is almost 1/2 inch should I cut the top of the holster to make it shorter? And what about the position? Is it ok this way?

 Another question I have is regarding the bootleg. Do you guys put some additional material inside to keep it from crumbeling? During my first dress up they seem to crumble because of the jumpsuit. But the legs of the jumpsuit still needs to be adjusted and maybe this will help.

1) Based on the photos we have of the screen scouts, the bottom of the holster was cut shorter than the top. See below. I think the top of your holster is fine. No need to cut it further.

2) The only time I've ever seen additional support material added to a boot is with Gio's Crowprops boots -- and that's b/c he uses real leather.

In your mock up shot from a few years ago, I'm not seeing a lot of boot crumpling? As mentioned, the most common solution to keeping the boots up is to add an elastic strap on the inside, which goes around your leg. You can conceal the stitch marks behind the holster, so try to get it rigged before you rivet it onto the boot.

[OnkelPaschulke]

2. These Boots are made for walking - Part 4

Cut down the bottom of the holster about an inch and attached it to the vinyl. All in all kind of happy with result. I had to spray one part of the holster with white spray paint because I messed up the slots at the front... 😄 There is a light difference between the colors but the weathering will hide it later on. Hope the result is at least working for basic approval. As I'm not 100% happy I might redo them later on. Who knows... The weathering will come later but for know this part is finished. Satisfying! And I just saw that there is a little bit of baking papier left in the stitching on the top... 😄

Boots White and may be lightly weathered. Check - weathering will follow The soles of the boot are tan. Check A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. Check Dog bones have double stitching along the rounded edges as seen in the film. Check The boots are secured up the back using 25mm (1 inch) white hook and loop fastener. Check The calf of the boot rises to just slightly underneath the bottom of the knee armor. Check Left boot closure is left-over-right. Check Right boot closure is right-over-left. Check

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen in the film. Check The boot sole is a single color with no visible stitching. Check Boot stitching is white. Check Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Check - at least I hope so 😂 Dogbone ends above the toe strip on both sides. Check The toe strip is approximately 1/2 inch in height. Check Dogbone shape conforms to the original screen used boot; there is a concave curve along the bottom edge. Check

[OnkelPaschulke]

3. We all have to tighten our belts...

In a good mood today and finished some minor things on the belt and this thing is finished, too. The whole assambling was pretty straight forward because the SC parts came pre-trimmed and only some minor parts had to be taken care of. I attached the dropboxes with velcro to the strips to be able to adjust the hight and position later on. While trying to burn down a small piece of thread in the back of the belt almost so whole part was set on fire (as you might see... 😄) In the back of the belt I put two magnets to keep the TD in place. Don't know if I really need them but Panda did it in his build and his builds are always awesome. So nothing wrong about it... 😉 

For the endcaps of the TD I printed a ring to fit inside the tubeing to give it a little more surface to stick to the glue and for counterpart of the magnets I made a little mess in the back. But no one will see it... 😛

Tomorrow I will get the jumpsuit to the tailor to tighten the legs a little more. The short dressup showed me that adjusting the highst of the crotch might not be necessary but we'll see when the cod is finished. Maybe I'll do it first before going to the tailor.

Belt Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. (Check) - weathering will follow The front and four "boxes" of the belt are made of plastic. (Check) The remainder of the belt that fastens at the back of the waist is made from webbing material. (Check) There are only two (2) visible 1/8th (3mm) rivets on the belt: one on each side toward the back to connect the webbing closure material to the plastic belt(Check) Hanging from the sides of the belt are two plastic hip boxes ("drop boxes"). (Check) 4 black parachute buckles attach to the drop box straps, one on either side of the drop box. (Check) Drop boxes connect to the belt via white textile straps. (Check) If using off-white cummerbund pouches and side straps, the drop box straps are also off-white.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is worn on the waist and not on the hips. (suit up) Belt has the appearance of being a one-piece construction. Any joins or seams are filled. (Check) 2 inch (50mm) nylon or polypropylene webbing is attached to the belt in the back with one (1) 1/8th (3mm)silver rivet on each side. (Check) Drop boxes hang approximately 1 inch from the belt. (suit up) Dropbox straps are 1.5 inches (38mm) wide and made of white cotton webbing. (Check) If pouches are off-white, dropbox straps must be dyed to match. Parachute buckles are not functional. In the film, the straps looped behind them. (Check) Thermal Detonator Thermal detonator box with a short gray hose that protrudes evenly from both ends. (Check) Hose is either corrugated (Check) or wire-wrapped. Hose is painted medium to light gray. (Check) Hose is capped off on both sides with two white, circular caps. (Check) On either end of hose is a black drill-style belt clip used to attach detonator to main belt. (Check) The face of the thermal detonator has a short side and a long side: (Check) On the long side is a black rectangular thermal detonator greeblie, either prongs up or prongs down; (Check) On the short side is a round black greeblie; (Check) If thermal detonator face is symmetrical (sides are even), greeblies may go on either side. Detonator box is gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. (Check) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thermal Detonator end caps are concave and not flat. (Check) Thermal Detonator face must have a short side and a long side; symmetrical TDs are not permitted. (Check)

[OnkelPaschulke]

Just a short update. I attached the Pin stripes to the tank. They came with the armor and I some pictures where they might be a little bit thicker. I Finished Cod piece on sunday and I‘ll do a little half way dress up tomorrow especially to show it to you because the Cod seems to be one of those many soft parts which need to look accurate otherwise they ruin the whole setup.

Cheers




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[Chopper]

If you're going for the 4 stripe version with the trapezoid on the tank, then the 4 stripes should be double thick. For the 1 or 6 stripe version, they're only single thickness.

[OnkelPaschulke]

Alright, I need some bigger stripes than.

[OnkelPaschulke]

Exchanged the stripes with new ones. I think now it’s looking pretty good! Had a hard day at work and changing the stripes was the only thing I managed to do today.




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[Chopper]

Looks great!

[OnkelPaschulke]

Ok, quickly put on the lower parts to show the Cod piece. It needs to be redone aswell as the bound because the sewing is not as good as I want it to be. The problem is that you can draw lines on the fabric but because of the batting the lines seem to be not straight anymore after sewing. Any ideas how to solve this problem?! With the bound it's the problem that the distance of the ribs is not equal and at the cod the curved detail is misaligned. But what do you guys say about the size of the cod? I put some thin foam in the lower part to prevent it from cameltoeing... It worked pretty well. If the size is good as it is I can do them again.

I'll get the jumpsuit to the tailor again to tighten the legs more and I want him to add the thigh patches. Looking at the CRL the upper part should go just a little bit above the curved detail and for the lower part aprox. to the middle of the knee armor, right?