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KOtrooper's Biker Scout build


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3 minutes ago, KOtrooper said:

My dad gave me a rivet gun and some rivets. He said they're 1/8 inch but wanted to double check before I went to town. Are these ok to use?d3b23c293492ef291c4a46a19dead28e.jpg

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They look correct. 

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Yeah as long as they're small flange 1/8" diameter, then they should be good.

0eGU5qU.jpg

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Thanks! I think I'm going to get some with a smaller length. They seem too long.

If I understand the process right, I will also need to add washers in the back.

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Yeah, get the washers -- especially if you're riveting plastic. When you crunch down the rivet gun it deforms the shaft. If you're working with plastic, that'll add stress and lead to breakage down the line.

One other thing -- make sure you get aluminum rivets/washers. You really don't want to have to deal with drilling out steel rivets if you need to replace anything.

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16 minutes ago, Chopper said:

One other thing -- make sure you get aluminum rivets/washers. You really don't want to have to deal with drilling out steel rivets if you need to replace anything.

This.

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After a few misfires, the bund is done. Currently on the hunt for the proper rivets. The big box stores are not friendly to Biker Scouts.dcaee4866ac9e604398360e339ebc4d6.jpg

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If you have an Ace Hardware, I've found that they usually carry a better selection of rivets than Lowes or Home Depot.

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Just got back from Ace hardware. Got the last few packs!

How are the trim lines looking on the face of my helmet?a48bc1fd66960bb62f68e3272c5e6d85.jpg

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Overall it looks good to me. Nice work on the snout paint as well.

 

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2 hours ago, Chopper said:

Overall it looks good to me. Nice work on the snout paint as well.

 

Thanks Corey! I couldn't find my thin masking tape for curves so I made a masking template and cut it out on my Cricut. Here's a SVG file to use. Note that I made it for my Studio Creation's helmet. I don't know how well it'll work on other snouts.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tkxadc0vdvwc7st/bikerScout_snout_SC.svg?dl=0

You'll want to use Oracle 631 (which is a low-tack/temporary use). Do not use Oracle 651 (it is permanent). Hobby Lobby's line of vinyl is similar to 631. You could also print this on card stock and trace it on a bunch of blue painter's tape.

In the photo, the vinyl template is black. I then used blue painters tape to cover the rest of the bucket to protect it from overspray.

PXL_20210612_172925038.jpg

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Bucket is assembled! I'm going to draw up and make my own decals to color match the gray I used so that's a later step. But it's assembled!!

One side doesn't want to stay closed. The flashing from the back is pushing on the face of the mask. Should I trim it or use a heat gun to bend it in a bit?6c20030131b94b2ec8a8f10cb2092d95.jpga45a94233650cc150f5f5c3d4095d61e.jpg

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You can try shaping it with the heat gun, maybe to get it to close a little better. Just keep in mind that the actual helmets used in ROTJ didn't close perfectly/seamlessly either. A little bit of a gap on the sides is a-ok!

Side%20Shot.jpg

ROTJ%20pouches%20tank.jpg

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Thanks, that makes me feel better. I'll drink around with it later with fresh eyes. Maybe play with a Velcro solution or something. I really don't want to mess with a heat gun on the bucket at this late in the process.

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Yeah, no worries. And just for your own knowledge base, a lot of folks used to see this photo and think: "I need to make the visor seam perfectly flush!" Thing is, that's the stunt helmet. The stunt helmet was a single piece and didn't have an opening faceplate.

The more you know, right?

Arm%20armor%202.jpg

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Hi Melody! That rivet looks a little large to me and I think it needs to be smaller @Chopper can weigh in here as well as he’s got a great eye. Check out this thread on the rivets that @BikerScout007 did on them.

 

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9 hours ago, Retrofire said:

Hi Melody! That rivet looks a little large to me and I think it needs to be smaller @Chopper can weigh in here as well as he’s got a great eye. Check out this thread on the rivets that @BikerScout007 did on them.

 

Thanks. I ended up just using the rivets I bought at Ace Hardware.

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Finished cutting the boots and none of my skin was cut in the process. Had a few close calls though. Ended up using a box cutter and changing out the blades halfway through each shoe.

Did slight touch ups with a rotary tool. 5aa2c10b90d201dee70cb836cadc969d.jpg

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Back armor is done. The bottom rivet doesn't go through both pieces as the plastic isn't close enough. The top rivet does go through both... And of course I attached that one first. b51e3525092ac91972e37abb690ee4f6.jpg8874ed23373946e5994820e7f98ed14e.jpg

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The bottom rivet isn't supposed to go through both pieces.  It's there to hold the elastic in place.  So you are fine :)

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One of the few downsides of the SC armor is that the blaster housing on the holster is a big large. I believe it was originally designed for the Hyperfirm blaster, which was oversized as well.

Also, I can't tell if it's the reflection or the angle of the photo, but is the holster mounted askew a bit? It looks canted upwards, which might also be causing the blaster to sit funny?

Here's a photo of one of the originals:

oKr3ot0.jpg

You can add a bit of foam padding inside the front edge of the holster housing to help it sit better. It should be ok, as long as it isn't noticeable.

 

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I can confirm @Chopper with regard to the SC holster. The hyper firm I originally had fit perfectly but my replacement DVH blaster was loose and rattles around so I had to add magnets and some Velcro.

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7 hours ago, Chopper said:

Also, I can't tell if it's the reflection or the angle of the photo, but is the holster mounted askew a bit? It looks canted upwards, which might also be causing the blaster to sit funny?

 

 

It did get crooked. I loosened up the e6000 (easy to do in the heatwave we're having) and am regluing it with different clamps. 

I think I'll print a second one a bit bigger and see if that looks like a better fit.

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Boots progress. Took some trial and error to get the wrinkles out of the vinyl but a bit more heat and stretching worked well. The contact cement helped the rest of the wrinkles disappear.

The contact cement didn't form a really tight bond after an hour (I could still pull the fabric away). Not sure if it's the heat or older cement. I put some e6000 at the ends of the fabric to help the bond. We will see if that worked tomorrow.de7ff713e175394e1e762e724e3b0970.jpg

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