[woobiee] 1st and New build! (Lancer probably)

[Chopper]

Here's what I mean --

This is one of the screen used helmet chin cups, but not the one that RS bought:

This is the RS one, and is the type of cup that comes with their builds:

[woobiee]

Oh that is interesting indeed!

This is how it sits on me at the moment in profile:

The inner hard hat is set to it's lowest point to get my noggin as in and seated as possible. Actually, I can set it so my head goes even further in the bucket, but the brim of the hard hat starts to cover my eyes.

If the chin cup is still too visible here, I will eventually have to reinstall the hard hat innards so it is further in the bucket. But of course, after I get Basic approval first.

[Chopper]

Is the "lip" part of the cup on the very end/front of your chin?

Also, rather than uninstalling and redrilling, can you try opening the top retainer part of the hard hat liner so it's beyond all the stops and just sits loose? That might drop the helmet down a little bit.

[woobiee]

Yep the front lip is at the very edge of my chin.

Opening up the top retainer will certainly lower the bucket some more and will solve the chin cup issue, but unfortunately, the brim of the hard hat liner (the part that is supposed to be around my forehead), lowers so much that it digs into my eyes. Actually that brim is currently around my eyebrows and it's already a little uncomfortable.

I think I just have an unusually long face...

[Chopper]

Hm, yeah not a ton of other alternatives in that case.

I think you're pretty much limited to the following options:

• Remove the hard hat liner entirely and try tactical padding instead
• Remove the chin cup, which is optional, and just use the black elastic strap
• Try repositioning and re-installing the hard hat liner

[woobiee]

I'm leaning towards option 3 when the time comes.

I did some digging and noticed that the RS folks in their RS buckets have the hard hat brim mostly hidden below the bucket portion of the helmet vs my copy that has the brim showing a good amount. Or....they didn't even have the hard hat innards here. Anyway, it's clear their buckets are sitting a good 1/2" or more below where mine is currently.

[sconlon68]

Not a fan of the hard hat liner. I have one in my tk and it just never feels right. I put tactical pads in my tb and added light eva to space everything out.

[woobiee]

Happy belated Halloween!

OK! Excited to say this will hopefully be my last post before getting Basic approval! The costume is ready for Basic and the only factor now is finding free time to do some proper photos -- hopefully sometime this week!

Photo on Halloween!

But between now and getting Basic, I will be doing some minor adjustments after learning a few things during my first 'unofficial' troop during Halloween. These adjustments will not delay getting Basic, it is more for me to troop more comfortably and/or for Lancer status.

First: the hard hat liner wasn't agreeing with me so I mounted it about 1/2" higher and further back. The bucket is now sitting 1/4" - 1/2" lower, allowing the chin cup to be more canceled. I tried negating the hard hat altogether and only used pads but the bucket felt less secured on my head.  

Second: my chin cup kept popping off my chin. After looking at images of the movie prop that Chopper provided, I determined that my chin cup was just a touch too deep for my chin since it was digging into my neck. As a result, I removed about 1/4" from the back. It is fitting much better!

Third: during my 'unofficial' troop, often time when I looked down to greet children, my face mask would flop about. I went ahead and did what others have done and mounted rare earth magnets to secure the face mask into place with E6000.

Fourth: I've decided to trim another 1/4" off of the shoulder bells. I think it is better proportioned to my body.

Finally, my Crowprops boots came in (along with some vinyl and elastic laces) and I'm ready to make these boots to replace my IB boots. The Crowprops boots are much softer and I believe will be much more comfortable to be in vs the IB ones.


And for you curious ones out there, IB left vs. Crowprops right. I can't comment on which is more accurate to the real ones, but IB is narrower than Crowprops. IB also has 'sharper' features. Color difference is significant!

[Chopper]

Looks great Andy. From what I can see, you shouldn't have any issue with basic clearance. Good luck!

[woobiee]

Found some time tonight to do my Basic approval photos and will be sending out my application this weekend!

Standard poses and some fun ones!

[Chopper]

Looks great! Good luck!

[OnkelPaschulke]

Wow, the picture with helmet on the stool looks like it‘s a part of an art exhibition… you could print it and put it inside a frame!


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[Aradun]

Good luck Andy! Looking forward to hearing some good news and you joining the ranks!

[woobiee]

Took them a bit to review but Lvl 1 complete!

It was a nice break from costuming while I waited but gonna start back on and finishing up Lvl 2 -- almost done!

[Chopper]

Congrats Andy and welcome aboard.

Don't forget to request 501st Pathfinder access here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/162-access-requests/

[Aradun]

Awesome Andy! Congrats brother! Well done!

[Retrofire]

Well done Pathfinder! Welcome to the 501st!

[woobiee]

Thanks everyone and thank you all for your guidance! 

[woobiee]

I have returned!

Starting to get the boots in order. I have a question:

Before I get too far ahead, is it acceptable to have a vertical trim/strip on the spine of the boot?

The CRL does not specify if it's allowed/not allowed for level2, though from all the images it looks like there is no trim detail, just some bare stitching. If it's personal preference, I tend to like it as it gives it a more 'finished' look.

[Chopper]

For Level 2, no. The rear closure should look like this:

[woobiee]

Hello friends!

I'm finally getting somewhere with these boots. It took some time understanding how to work with the vinyl and finding results I was satisfied with. I probably made 2-3 sets of tubes to get the right shaping.  

I used the outstanding Boot tutorial posted by @cheesewhoopy as the starting point and made a few modifications of my own.

1/2" toe strip


Going outside of the tutorial, I made some finger loops from scrap vinyl for added accuracy.

For those who use CrowProps boots, there is a slight rake to the sole where the rear half elevates upward. Another thing going outside of the tutorial is adjusting the lower edge of the pattern to match the rake.

In the end it was about a 1/2" adjustment.

With some scrap vinyl, I made pull tabs for the tongue of the boot. In conjunction with a shoehorn, it helps with ingress. It is neatly velcro'd to the inner wall of the tube for stowing.

I've also added a second layer of vinyl for a sturdier construction. Hoping to prevent some droop even though I'll still use@Chopper's elastic method for the right boot.

Lastly, the whole reason why a second pair of boots was made: the dog bone. For my boots, I had to cut down an inch overall

So before I go in, does the dog bone look right in size and position? (The stitching detail will come soon enough!)

[Chopper]

BOOM! Right on Andy! That's some fine work!

[Aradun]

Man you killed it! They are sharp looking and the Crowprops soles are amazing. Great work. Good tips for those who use the Crowprops boots as a base too.

[woobiee]

Used Chopper's calf strap method

And all done!

On to the TD endcaps!

[Chopper]

Those boots look great dude. Pro quality.