jcalus Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 Hello all, I've been wanting to build a shoretroper since I first saw a promo pick of the helmet. Just so cool !! Started with the boots. Happy with how they are looking so far, and feel. When the ammo pouch came I cleaned it up with warm water, like all the other old pouches I've worked with. And while wet I reshaped it a bit bcz it was pretty smooshed.. lol Pants and shirt are from IB, and gloves from endor finders. A buddy with a 3d printer , printed me out an oiler ( still working on it ) Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 My big brown box showed up from 850 a couple of weeks ago and I’ve been pretty busy with all the work.. Bcz it’s back formed the edges are not super sharp, but I wanted to see how well I could sharpen up those edges without having to do as much work as spudley7... I’m a bit lazy... lolStarted with the shins And I’m really happy with the results.The knee plates both needed some extra work. Specially the left.. the pull was quite bad with the studs almost completely bridged.. probably bcz the spacing was too close. So I removed them and replaced with some homemade ones out of walnut. That way the base colours match. the top edge was pretty wonky, so it needed work too.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 Hand plates turned out nicely.Sanded off the top rails of the forearms and replaced with 1/16 ABS, then with abs paste, smoothed/rounded out the sides. There are curves through out the armor and since it would be sooo much work to change that.. so I’m not going to.. lolBut, I kinda dig the curvy flow of it and really like the way the forearms looksSent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 The chest and back will need the most reworking and it’s coming along slowly but surely..Top circle and top/side groove. The pull on the lower half circle was wonky.. Side vents were ok.. but I wanted a little more definition.Added bottom ledge Sharpened the rear strap covers.. but still thinking of replacing them.. Shoulder bells where a bit thin so I gave them a bath in hot water and then into old to hold the new shape. Much happier with them now. Had to do the same thin to my TD.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 Into cold water.. LolSent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 Dude you’re killing it! Great and creative solutions to some of the deficiencies and flaws in the vac formed armor. The whole walnut studs for the knee plate and how you didn’t just glue them on but made pegs to insert them through the knee plate...ingenious! I’m eating this stuff up. Keep it coming! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 Dude you’re killing it! Great and creative solutions to some of the deficiencies and flaws in the vac formed armor. The whole walnut studs for the knee plate and how you didn’t just glue them on but made pegs to insert them through the knee plate...ingenious! I’m eating this stuff up. Keep it coming! Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThanks! I didnt get a pic, but the back of those pegs got covered with bumber filler as well.Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaryGuy Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 Great work so far! Still a shame they still can’t deliver sharper pulls. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Finished up the biceps to prime. Sanded down the edges to sharpen up, and based on a photo from the celebration pics, primed the right bicep with white.Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaryGuy Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 6 hours ago, jcalus said: Finished up the biceps to prime. Sanded down the edges to sharpen up, and based on a photo from the celebration pics, primed the right bicep with white. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk It may look white due to the lighting, but there’s a sahara beige undercoat there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KOtrooper Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Yeah, for the entire build you want to use brown as the basecoat and then beige. Any colored sections then go on top of those two colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Sounds good. Thanks for the help Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 In the late summer I stared my e11b using all my spare parts I had kicking around. It’s a bit of a Frankenstein... lol I did need to pick up a couple of parts though. So I ordered the aluminum barrel and steel n brass scope ( which is awesome! ) from war machine. And m300a mini scout light Parts I had..War machine- aluminum folding stock Doppydoos- resin rear cap, rear lock, front sight, front tip, charging handle, grip, and switch3D print- counter, t-tracks, extended mag and assembly Homemade- rear sight, scope rail, d ring, and trigger guard. Still need the power cylinders. Any thoughts where I can get those?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 The front screw on the scope rail has a drywall screw, for now.. lol planning on changing that. But I did leave the trigger out on purpose. My Bapty doesn’t have one and I’ve grown used to it.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 I forgot to mention. There is a wooden dowel throughout the body. It backed all the vent holes and ejection port, plus gave solid backing for anything being attached/screwed.Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaryGuy Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 Blaster looks great! If you are aiming for level 2 then the grip would have to be the same as the S&T airsoft version, which has more square edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 That scope is sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 Blaster looks great! If you are aiming for level 2 then the grip would have to be the same as the S&T airsoft version, which has more square edges.For sure. That's the nice thing about a wood core. I can un screw it and add a different grip.Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 That scope is sweet! Thanks. ! Couldn't be happier. Ordering another one for the bapty. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted February 5, 2021 Author Share Posted February 5, 2021 Got some work done on the rear canisters. 850 gives a vacformed ribbed sheet to be rolled, 4 end caps, and a 2 piece cylinder. The ribbed sheet is designed to go into the caps, but on screen the ribs butt into the end, and they are a bit too big.. So cut some 1/16, rolled, banded, gave a hot water bath, and they kept their shape. The end caps where cut using a blade resting a board to keep a nice straight line while twisting the caps. Then used the 2 half cylinders as the ribs. They where already curved so that was super handy. There was a gap between the cylinder and cap so it was filled with ABS paste along with the indentation that is supposed to be the joint line near the end. Added the line back after sanding/squaring using a similar technique as cap cutting.. but with a saw. They are both 2 7/8” wide, vertical can 5 1/2”, ribbed 7 1/2” long Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted February 5, 2021 Author Share Posted February 5, 2021 I've been working on the chest and back assembly for the past little while. The front had 2 collars that had to go.The back has a high ridge line to mount the included vac collar to, but it spread it out too much. So.. I had to take it off and remount to the inside. Shouldn't have been in such a hurry... lolAlso cut the rear shoulder back a little. The collar was still a bit wide at the ends so I filled them 1/4 way with Oatey bonding puddy and put them in line with the chest cut outs to harden. Worked really well.Cut out the inside neck plate and replaced to give a more accurate look. I'm glad I was able to get the ends bend back. I'll smooth out with ABS paste.. there's a more than a few spots tat need it.. lol Shoulders have 1 1/2" black elastic that are fixed to the back and snap to front. Then added a bridge from the back to attach the shoulder bell snap. My sandy is like this, and it works well for me. The vac formed back bottom detail was a bit small and round so a new one was made from 1/8. Left out the backing until beige painting is done.Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted February 5, 2021 Author Share Posted February 5, 2021 The 2 large greeblies 850 sent were great for a costume, but we're 501st, so needed to be better. So I have a set on order from Mr Paul and will build from them when they get here. The openings have been dbl layered. Strength and to give a bit more depth. Leaving all the protruding greeblies off till the end. Also have my hip armor coming from Paul , and belt from Imperial issue. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KOtrooper Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 Looks like you have black plastic between the shoulder straps under the nylon webbing. If that's the case, you can trim that off. There should be a gap between the chest and back piece on the shoulder. The only connector is the black webbing.Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcalus Posted February 6, 2021 Author Share Posted February 6, 2021 Looks like you have black plastic between the shoulder straps under the nylon webbing. If that's the case, you can trim that off. There should be a gap between the chest and back piece on the shoulder. The only connector is the black webbing.Sent from my Pixel 3a using TapatalkOh that piece. It's not a full bridge from the back to front. It will lay under the shoulder strap and is there to give a ridged point to connect the shoulder bell. I've seen pics of something similar on the film used costumes, but coming from the front.Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KOtrooper Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 Oh that piece. It's not a full bridge from the back to front. It will lay under the shoulder strap and is there to give a ridged point to connect the shoulder bell. I've seen pics of something similar on the film used costumes, but coming from the front.Sent from my SM-A505W using TapatalkYour shoulder bell should be attached to the nylon webbing. That should be the only element that spans between the chest and back piece.Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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