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Lucasfan7 Scout build take 2


Lucasfan7

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The screen used costumes had an L-shaped bracket behind the side of the holster, near where the cuts are, to help affix it to the boot plate.

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11 minutes ago, Lucasfan7 said:


Yeah this one has a slot for the rear area, but the front is free hanging. Rivets would be a no no though correct?


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It depends.  Now that I remember the SC had screws holding the front part down -- but they were not visible from the outside.  As long as they can't be seen from the outside you can attach it anyway you like.  

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The screen used costumes had an L-shaped bracket behind the side of the holster, near where the cuts are, to help affix it to the boot plate.
yAYYqlWh.png

That sounds pretty interesting, I have no idea what that is unless it’s an L-bracket like they used on cabinets, but it definitely sounds like they were thinking outside the box with that one. Any chance you have a picture of an example of the Type of L bracket used


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It depends.  Now that I remember the SC had screws holding the front part down -- but they were not visible from the outside.  As long as they can't be seen from the outside you can attach it anyway you like.  

Yeah I’m thinking e-6000 should be good in that case. I’m not sure I want rivets showing on the inside if they didn’t have them in the movie. Especially since my blaster will be in my hand the majority of the time for photos, so that inside holster area will almost act as the outside since you can see directly into it.


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39 minutes ago, Lucasfan7 said:


That sounds pretty interesting, I have no idea what that is unless it’s an L-bracket like they used on cabinets, but it definitely sounds like they were thinking outside the box with that one. Any chance you have a picture of an example of the Type of L bracket used


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I don't have any better photos, just the glimpse you see on screen. I imagine they just heat bent a piece of styrene into an L-shape.

As Mickey said, as long as you can't see it from the outside, you can attach the holster however you'd like. 

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I don't have any better photos, just the glimpse you see on screen. I imagine they just heat bent a piece of styrene into an L-shape.
As Mickey said, as long as you can't see it from the outside, you can attach the holster however you'd like. 

Cool, thanks a million for all the help. I know I have a bunch or random questions. I’m just trying to take it slow and think of everything I can.


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Cool, thanks a million for all the help. I know I have a bunch or random questions. I’m just trying to take it slow and think of everything I can.


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Dude, all your questions are helping others, including me, learn more about the intricacies of the Scout costume. Keep ‘em coming. It also gives the armorers and DL a chance to truly showcase the depth of their knowledge, which often leaves me standing in awe. I love it!


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Dude, all your questions are helping others, including me, learn more about the intricacies of the Scout costume. Keep ‘em coming. It also gives the armorers and DL a chance to truly showcase the depth of their knowledge, which often leaves me standing in awe. I love it!


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Yeah it’s really impressive, I definitely appreciate their knowledge and help.


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Hey Manoah..!  I also have SC armor and came across the same issue...  I ended up riveting that little extra flange to the holster plate (not to the boot, just the plastic) because the E-6000, while very good, concerned me with how well it would hold up over time both carrying the blaster in it, or taking the blaster in and out,  especially because the other end was simply slid into the back portion...  

this is a pic of what it looked like before filing the rivets down on the inside of the holster, then I simply applied a small strip of white duct tape over top to conceal them, added some slight weathering...  can’t see it from the outside and you can barely tell they’re there unless you’re specifically looking for it 👍🏼

50811141886_829e6f3d78_b.jpg

 

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E6000 is a decent flexible bond, but it's a contact cement -- not permanent. If you want to chemically bond the plastic together, then you can use some Devcon Plastic Weld. Glued properly, that flange will never come off again.

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Hey Manoah..!  I also have SC armor and came across the same issue...  I ended up riveting that little extra flange to the holster plate (not to the boot, just the plastic) because the E-6000, while very good, concerned me with how well it would hold up over time both carrying the blaster in it, or taking the blaster in and out,  especially because the other end was simply slid into the back portion...  
this is a pic of what it looked like before filing the rivets down on the inside of the holster, then I simply applied a small strip of white duct tape over top to conceal them, added some slight weathering...  can’t see it from the outside and you can barely tell they’re there unless you’re specifically looking for it 
50811141886_829e6f3d78_b.jpg  

Thanks for that tip Joe, I actually read your build in it’s entirety because we both had SC so thanks for that, and what you just mentioned actually gives me a lot to think about because when I started this build I told myself that I was going to do everything I could to make it physically look like the on screen costumes, but at the same time I want it to be super durable for trooping and I think this might be one of those parts where as long as the outside is accurate than the I side should matter too much.


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E6000 is a decent flexible bond, but it's a contact cement -- not permanent. If you want to chemically bond the plastic together, then you can use some Devcon Plastic Weld. Glued properly, that flange will never come off again.

That might not be a bad idea, I have about 7 tubes of that stuff left over from my clone build as well so maybe I will do a little practice run with some spare ABS.


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that was an E-6000 spot for mine...  easy to take off in case I ever need to replace them, the tube, or if one or both of the rivets on the belt clips that hold the detonator ever pulled through I could at least salvage the caps

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18 minutes ago, Omaha Joe said:

that was an E-6000 spot for mine...  easy to take off in case I ever need to replace them, the tube, or if one or both of the rivets on the belt clips that hold the detonator ever pulled through I could at least salvage the caps

Thanks a million, I greatly appreciate it. Did you just pour it in thick and let it self level? 

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c88bee821a97ba3e6c2e6ed41553b659.jpg2a348dc6d578a6ce5a84a27c4f0bc22f.jpg1334ee2aeeac265dd7962baed5f7543b.jpgd2e76fc9ceb578ad3aef1f1ebff912bb.jpg
I did a little work tonight, updated the red line on the top of the tank so that it extends on the sides of the knobs. I also got the line decal and trapezoid decal in place. The rank bar decals that came with the SC kit are a little skinny for the hero costume so my wife said she will attempt to make me some thicker ones tomorrow on her vinyl machine. It’s one of those cricket things so hopefully it will works.


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51b82cf6be41cc6a92b17625aabd8edc.jpg73d4680d65321f13a36ae521480d9801.jpge5f9f82851222b9a6127a4fdc19c5f6e.jpg
I also got my clips Installed on my therm det, I found these clips a bit cheaper on Amazon, they have the correct shape but I still have to paint them black.


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6166e9b7dd2f1c9ab92f69c4a74e1327.png
I think tomorrow I’m going to come up with some plan to get this stitch line into the strap, it almost looks like the strap is folded back on itself. Anyone have an idea on this? I know it’s not a requirement, but I want to add as much details as I can.


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28 minutes ago, Lucasfan7 said:Did you just pour it in thick and let it self level? 

I put a bead around the inside of the mouth of the tube, then turned it over into the end cap and let gravity do its work so it would be glued from the inside, but then I went back and dropped maybe three small spots between the outside of the tube and the inside of the end cap...  just make sure to check on it from time to time as it cures; parts have a tendency to slide around as the E-6000 dries, you’ll want the tube as centered as you can get it inside the end cap 👍🏼

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...and yeah if you’re going for the “Leia Accosting” Hero with the trapezoid detail, the SC rank bars are a little thin, but I’ve seen people cut their own 4 thicker bars from a sheet of black vinyl sticker material and they look just fine

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I put a bead around the inside of the mouth of the tube, then turned it over into the end cap and let gravity do its work so it would be glued from the inside, but then I went back and dropped maybe three small spots between the outside of the tube and the inside of the end cap...  just make sure to check on it from time to time as it cures; parts have a tendency to slide around as the E-6000 dries, you’ll want the tube as centered as you can get it inside the end cap

Great advice, I remember the caps on my last build were a pain in the butt and there was some glue showing which always bothered me but I covered it with weathering, which I don’t want to do this time.


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...and yeah if you’re going for the “Leia Accosting” Hero with the trapezoid detail, the SC rank bars are a little thin, but I’ve seen people cut their own 4 thicker bars from a sheet of black vinyl sticker material and they look just fine

That’s pretty cool, I figured that if we can get the size down perfect then we can save the file and print them out to fellow scouts in the future to save them money. It would cost us next to nothing to print.


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6 hours ago, Lucasfan7 said:

6166e9b7dd2f1c9ab92f69c4a74e1327.png
I think tomorrow I’m going to come up with some plan to get this stitch line into the strap, it almost looks like the strap is folded back on itself. Anyone have an idea on this? I know it’s not a requirement, but I want to add as much details as I can.


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Ooh!  Ohh!  I have an idea!

Fold the strap back, and sew it down ;)

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4 minutes ago, Lucasfan7 said:


But how?emoji23.pnglol.
I guess some things are as simple as the look.


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Yeah I wouldn't over think this one!   Or any of it, really.  They filmmakers didn't -- and it shows :D

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