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3D Printed Helmet


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Has anyone looked at doing a 3D Printed Helmet.  I found what looks like a very impressive template, but before I pull the trigger and  have a friend start printing, I'd like a bit of feedback.

Here's a link to the template:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416367

Any comments/criticisms are welcome.

Greg

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It's a good design and should be approvable with proper finish work. I've heard of others using the models but haven't seen any finished products up for approval yet. Go for it, someone has to be the first. 

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I didn't see any glaring issues with it, but both my friend who is running it and I wanted to double check before firing up the printer!  I will post pics as I get them.

Greg

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I'm not a 3D print expert, but just in terms of helmet design the items that stand out to me are the indents on the right rear, as well as on the faceplate.

Also, it looks like the traps on the upper rear of the helmet have vents cut into them. Both the traps and the vents on the faceplate were decals on the original helmet.

The indents on the right rear were more like bumps on the original helmet, rather than stepped intents.

The front visor looks awfully squared and the return edge on the very top looks very narrow.

I don't think that there will be an issue clearing this helmet for basic, but it would need some modifications to pass for level 2 (Lancer).

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The Jesus Salmeron helmet is also another good design, although it needs the ear holes cut out. 

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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi all - 

Brand new to this group and currently working on my first build, which includes this particular helmet, via the Ender 3 printer.  My ultimate goal is to complete and submit for approval into the Imperial Sands Garrison, so I will happily play as your "guinea pig" for 501st adequacy!

At this point in the assembly (just added primer and paint, waiting to sand before sealing), everything looks amazing, aside from the more realistic and practical (yet "not-screen-accurate") vents.

The only other thing I would say about it is that it can be a tight fit to get into it, if you have a larger head like mine, but is not too bad while wearing a balaclava. 

Also, when you close the mask, the base doesn't 100% match up with the "inner-jaw", to click closed - However, that can be adjusted with some sanding... As with everything, i'm learning.  :)

Hoping to be a "bad guy doing good", soon.

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3 hours ago, TylerJohnsonSD said:

Hi all - 

Brand new to this group and currently working on my first build, which includes this particular helmet, via the Ender 3 printer.  My ultimate goal is to complete and submit for approval into the Imperial Sands Garrison, so I will happily play as your "guinea pig" for 501st adequacy!

At this point in the assembly (just added primer and paint, waiting to sand before sealing), everything looks amazing, aside from the more realistic and practical (yet "not-screen-accurate") vents.

The only other thing I would say about it is that it can be a tight fit to get into it, if you have a larger head like mine, but is not too bad while wearing a balaclava. 

Also, when you close the mask, the base doesn't 100% match up with the "inner-jaw", to click closed - However, that can be adjusted with some sanding... As with everything, i'm learning.  :)

Hoping to be a "bad guy doing good", soon.

If possible post some pics when you get a chance. 

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Still working on some sanding, but here's the construction, plus greeblies

(The nozzle on the snout is the "completed" version, which is 1-piece and doesn't include a true screen - That will be changed eventually...)

3.JPG.82a4b7da3658ae620e03dccaeeb94a66.JPG1.JPG.340098c4830bd943d61ae6d4377f3706.JPG2.JPG.d4b5f102121c4c4cf32e04e7a3b69491.JPG4.JPG.378d13343752eca0c8b70385c1141e42.JPG5.JPG.6f02f3fbed1a37c63b12f41d73fe78ca.JPG

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Nice work it looks good. If you're going for approval and not just display you'll need to a few adjustments. The forehead ovals will need to be filled in and decals/stickers used in place. Same thing goes for the nostril vents. The trapezoids on the back of the head will also need to have the detail parts removed and stickers used instead. I like the extra detail parts  that make it looks more realistic and in line with what a functioning helmet would be like but since the original helmets were petty lo-tech certain details need to remain the same. Let us know if you have questions about which parts need to be adjusted  and we can get you on your way. 

Overall very good work.

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Dang! :) And here I thought I was pretty close to sealing it up, hahaha.   Thank you for your honest assessment!

Curious... Is that for ALL levels of approval, or just for "Lancer" status?

Followup question... Is there a place that you would recommend to get the proper decals?  Hopefully ones that include the stripes on the helmet/backpack and visor-logo?

Thanks for the help!

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24 minutes ago, TylerJohnsonSD said:

Dang! :) And here I thought I was pretty close to sealing it up, hahaha.   Thank you for your honest assessment!

Curious... Is that for ALL levels of approval, or just for "Lancer" status?

Followup question... Is there a place that you would recommend to get the proper decals?  Hopefully ones that include the stripes on the helmet/backpack and visor-logo?

Thanks for the help!

This is direct from the CRL:

Helmet
  • Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered.
  • Lens is black in color and obscures wearer's eyes
  • Decals are screen accurate
  • Snout greeblie is medium gray and the aerator portion is painted black
  • Inner edge of snout recess is black
  • Bolts are either flat or have concave centers
  • Helmet is true to the shape of original screen accurate helmet.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Chin cup is optional.
  • No mesh material mounted in the ears.
  • Area behind ears inside the helmet is blacked out, either with paint or gaffer tape
  • Snout greeblie is screen-accurate: it is an elongated plate with a rounded top, with a detail modeled after a Yamaha XS1100LG model motorcycle engine and sink aerator affixed to the bottom half. “Sticker” snouts are not acceptable.
  • Snout recess on helmet is painted black. Stickers are not acceptable.
  • Helmet bolts are Gray 3M bolts or other replicas with concave centers. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm).
  • Optional: No visible seams on the dome.
    • For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, the join around the top of the dome is as flush as possible. Fill this seam so it is not visible. The screen used helmets did not have a join in this area due to a different construction method

 

I can't endorse any particular vendor but Trooperbay is quick and easy.

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