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Ruthar's Patrol Trooper Build


Ruthar

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Great thinking, Jeff! Better to be safe than sorry, no doubt.

1 hour ago, wingnut65 said:

Can't wait to see your submission pix!

No more waiting necessary! :)

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Submission Photos

Having finished the weathering, there isn't any reason to delay suiting up for some approval shots. It's pretty similar to the earlier shots, but here's what it looks like with the weathering all wrapped up.

Front:

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Back:

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Left:

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Right:

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Details:

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Poses:

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Individual Components:

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It looks amazing! Congrats on getting them in!

 

I forgot to mention how I loved the idea of the aluminum box to form the pouches. I might copy that idea.

 

Also, from my TK trooping experiences, I've changed many snaps to industrial strength Velcro. Basically, a snap has two options - Yes and No. Either it is snapped, or it's not. I'd recommend changing your shoulder bell snap to Velcro to give more flexibility in movement without the fear of popping it. Or, add another strap with velcro. 

 

Have fun trooping!

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Thanks, Jeff! :)

As of a little while ago, the PT is approved! Our GML did up this fun little edit to celebrate. Time to start handing out some tickets!

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More to do still with the helmet interior, fit, and some other remaining level 2 things that are still being discussed. It never ends, but that’s the fun part! :)

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Congratualations! I've been following along your massive, awesome, detailed posts in  the hope of starting a PT build myself. Very well done Sir.

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Well done!  

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Thanks, everyone! :)

I had the chance to do the first troop in the costume. It's definitely not the easiest wear out there, but everything held together at least. :P More modifications to come soon!

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On 7/19/2019 at 3:34 AM, Harkas said:

Congrats mate and thank you for your fantastic build information. I will use it for my assembly. :)

Thank you! :) I'm glad you find it helpful. If you've got any specific questions when you get under way, don't hesitate to reach out!

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Details

Helmet Teeth

One of the things that I overlooked was the teeth on the helmet. The helmet came pretty finished up, so I assumed that I didn't really need to do much to it. However, in studying some images, I did notice the mesh behind the teeth in the shots below.

I zoomed in on this image to find a hint of the mesh:

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The Anovos bucket has the mesh, too, and they claim to have access to direct sources.

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I finally decided to take the plunge and get this detail added. I started by drilling a hole in between each tooth to start the process.

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Next, I used a small sanding bit on my Dremel to open up the holes a little more.

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Then I finished up the square openings with some small metal files.

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Here's what they look like all opened up, but the paint is a bit rough now.

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I used a bit of grey and black acrylic paint to clean up the rough edges to make them look fresh.

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For the mesh backing, I cut out two 1" x 4" strips of plastic screen mesh material that I've used for a bunch of other TK helmets.

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At the top of the strip where they meet, I cut an angle so they meet but don't overlap beneath the center "tooth."

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To keep the mesh in place, I just used a couple thin strip of black gaffer's tape.

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Here's a shot of the new, more accurate frown. It still needs to be re-weathered, but I want these coats of paint to fully dry first.

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Helmet Height Adjustment

I've trooped in the costume three times now. The biggest problem each time has been visibility - I've adjusted the padding each time to get something more usable, but the problem has persisted. The collar of the armour is just slightly too tall for my short neck to permit the helmet to sit at an appropriate enough height for me. However! While I was cutting out the teeth, I had a sort of "aha" moment - I could use the teeth to see out of instead of the lenses. It's not ideal, but it would at least give me a more comfortable trooping experience.

I experimented with a bunch of different padding setups, but here is the one that seems like it will work the best. Looking from the front, there is definitely more room for moving the head up, down, and around.

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I definitely like the side profile a lot better - it looks like the helmet is in a more appropriate place than how it was previously touching the collar.

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This is all the foam I used to fill the empty top of the helmet. I'll clean this up and get it properly installed when I finish the helmet interior later on, but this just gives a general idea.

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On the plus side, you won't ever see my eyes behind the lenses - just my forehead and my sweating brow. :P

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I did a short video demonstrating the newly improved helmet motion. Definitely so so much better than how it was!

Next up is really wrapping up the helmet interior as well as a few other quality of life improvements I'd like to do with a few troops now under the belt as true tests. :)

 

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Details

Sleeve Length

One thing that's been bothering me is that the sleeves get tugged down by the weight of the forearm pieces so that they then hit my handplates. To fight this, I had the sleeves taken up by removing a few ribs at the elbow. The result is nice - the sleeves now terminate just before the wrist but are pulled down into place once the forearm armour is attached. You can see the new sleeve on the left and the original length on the right.

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Holster Size

One thing that I knew I needed to fix/adjust was fitting my blaster into the holster. The holster that came with my kit is just too narrow to receive the two blasters that I already have for my Biker Scout. Instead of destroying the blaster by forcing it in or completely reshaping the holster with heat and causing it to look strange, I decided to rebuild the holster from scratch.

I traced the original holster onto some paper by tracing each edge and turning it along while moving the pencil. This gave me a 2D rendering of the material required.

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I then cut it out and attached the rear edge to recreate the piece.

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After the paper model of the piece was created, I expanded the width by creating a second paper version with increased dimensions. Eventually, it was big enough to receive the blaster.

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Once the size was discovered, I flattened the paper version and traced the pattern onto some white ABS.

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I cut out the shape and cleaned it up with a dremel and some sandpaper. Then, I used a heat gun to form the holster around the blaster itself for a snug fit.

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I used zap-a-gap to close the holster in the rear to create the closed holster. I used some acetone on a rag to remove the black sharpie lines before taking the final pics.

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Here are some shots comparing the new holster to the smaller original one.

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And some shots of the new fit. Here's the holster with my Hyperfirm EC-17 that I use for most events as I'm not afraid of it being bumped around.

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And with my resin "dress-up" blaster that I used for my Lancer application that I use for more formal events.

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