TK-24576 who also wants to be TB

[Chopper]

Hi Sven! Overall, I think you look good and you shouldn't have any issues with basic clearance.

Some small refinements you might want to consider --

Your chest armor looks good, but the back armor is drooping very low. This is also pulling your shoulder bells back when viewed from the side. You might want to consider trimming the shoulder bridges slightly for a better fit.

I would actually bring your belt down a bit, maybe an inch? It seems high.

Dropboxes are a bit high, should be about an inch from the bottom belt edge.

Also, check where your cod strap connects in the back, in the photos it's slanted to your right side.

But yeah, as I said, nothing huge, and certainly nothing that should hold you back from basic clearance.

Let us know if you need anything else! Good work and good luck Sven!

 

[HSM76]

Thanks for the feedback Corey. 

The belt is sitting on the waist, if I lower it, it will be more on the hips.

The dropboxes seem to have slipped up, it should be an inch. But I will check that.

The cod strap was something I noticed too. It has a loop and I think I did not center it right while kitting up. 

I had the fear that the back is to low. I will shorten the shoulder bridges a bit. Will be interesting to see how RS has attached everything there. What do you think how much should I pull it up?

Would this be the height:

[Chopper]

Hi Sven, no problem at all. I still think your belt is a bit high, but we can table that for the moment.

I think it may be more illustrative from the side. See the attached photo -- I've marked approximately how the armor should ideally sit. You may need to trim a bit off of both front and back shoulder bridges to bring it into that position.

Obviously before you cut anything, please make sure everything fits properly. Measure twice, cut one, etc...

Feel free to give us a look before you trim, if you like. We're always here and happy to help.

Corey

 

[HSM76]

19 hours ago, Chopper said:

Hi Sven, no problem at all. I still think your belt is a bit high, but we can table that for the moment.
I think it may be more illustrative from the side. See the attached photo -- I've marked approximately how the armor should ideally sit. You may need to trim a bit off of both front and back shoulder bridges to bring it into that position.
Obviously before you cut anything, please make sure everything fits properly. Measure twice, cut one, etc...
Feel free to give us a look before you trim, if you like. We're always here and happy to help.
Corey
 

I will see about the belt lowering is no problem at all 🙂

Thank you for your help.

After, removing the shoulder bridges, I will do some mock ups with tape first before cutting anything. It is not the first time working on an ABS armour. My TK is Centurion level, so yes measuring, sticking with blue tape, measuring, sticking..... And at some distant point after that, cutting 🙂
 

[HSM76]

Darn it.... The shoulder bridges seem to be superglued together. Does anyone have an idea how to get this to separate without cutting it out? I am a bit reluctant to just cut it of , it is about one cm of overlap. 

[Chopper]

So they didn't just glue the elastic covering over the two shoulder bridge ends, they overlapped and glued the plastic parts as well?

[HSM76]

16 minutes ago, Chopper said:

So they didn't just glue the elastic covering over the two shoulder bridge ends, they overlapped and glued the plastic parts as well?

Indeed they did, here you see:

[Chopper]

Urgh. Yeah, that's gonna be tricky.

Just eyeballing it from your side photo, I believe you might need to trim more than just that small overlap, so you could consider cutting the 1cm overlap part.

Obviously, with a gorgeous set of armor like that, there's a bit of a leap of faith there. Caution is advised.

I would absolutely not try any solvents or anything like that -- anything that will dissolve superglue, will also attack the ABS.

 

[HSM76]

Okay. Thanks for the solvent reminder, I had that in mind, but it is something that can't be said enough. Liquids that dissolve the bonds of Cyanoacrylate dissolve ABS too.

That's what I thought and feared, that I have to cut. But from the photo I would say that I have more than 1cm too. So I will go for it when I have time to work on it. That will be in about 1,5 weeks earliest 😖

[HSM76]

Long time no update...

Had no time to get on with the build, and it is still a bit before I can get at it again.

I cut out the glued part, but that's it.

After a long time I got a response regarding basic  from the garrison.

The two things that were noticed are that the shoulder bells should be brought in, which will happen with the updated shoulder bridges. But the added concern that the flack vest sleeves might be to long in that case. 

Here I noticed that the basic "The sleeves end just below the bottom edge of the shoulder armor." can be interpreted more strictly than the level two "not more than 1,5 inches"

The other thing is that the cumberbund "extends over the belt, and should be brought up." which is not the case. It extends to the front. I have a rather slim waist compared to my chest. Right now the hook velcro (inner) on the cumberbund is at a steep angel to bring the bund in at the waist. It is a problem to get it lay flat so there is no protruding to the front. 

How have you guys solved this?

 

[Chopper]

Hey Sven, did you end up submitting with the photos you posted earlier?

I can see what your GML is saying -- it would certainly help if you brought your shoulders in a bit and yes that would make the bottoms of the flak vest sleeves longer.

The intent of the more nebulous wording for the flak vest sleeves is to allow for more variation on the length for basic. It should definitely not be interpreted as being more strict than level 2. I see where you're coming from though and, at the Detachment level, we can look at refining the language a bit more next time we're doing CRL edits and updates.

Now, I still think your belt is too high and if you take it down a bit, where it fits a bit wider over your hip bones, then I wonder if that may solve some of the issues with the bund draping over your belt? If you want to give that a try, we're happy to take a look.

[greenyone]

I'm on the smaller side too but not as slim as you...I was having the same issue with the bund.  (Chest wider than waist)  I sewed in some wedge shaped 'tucks' behind where the pouches hang to take up that extra material around the waist. 

 

 

[HSM76]

Took a while longer than I thought...
But I got back on working on the Scout.@Chopper: Yes I used the pics above for the submission.
I will do that, take the shoulders in when I make the new connection of the shoulder bridges.
Dropping the belt will not help with the bund unfortunately, as the waist and midriff are about the same circumference.
@greenyone : thank you. I don't know why I did not come to this solution, it is so obvious!

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[HSM76]

After a lot of rework (and no interim updates, I know I am terrible in that regard)

I reworked the shoulder bridges to a flexible velcro connection. I added a lot of velcro to the softgoods:

- for the forearms and biceps

- for the cumberbund to the flak west

- for the cod piece to the suit

- for the cod piece to the cumberbund

(And I might add some more velcro...

I shortened the sleeves of the flak west and shortened the zip ties on the shoulders.

Made the Vs under the pouches in the cumberbund.

The best part:

I got my basic approval yesterday!

Now off to Lancer.

Do you guys have anything that would be necessary to do for the lancer submission?

One question I have is the boots, I updated the slots to be a bit more accurate. But do I need to add cuts in the toe?

The pattern in the original serrias is a bit hard to replicate.

[Chopper]

Your boot cuts look good, dude. You should be all set there. 

[HSM76]

Your boot cuts look good, dude. You should be all set there. 

Any more tips for lancer? Am I missing something?

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[Chopper]

On 12/18/2019 at 5:42 AM, HSM76 said:

Any more tips for lancer? Am I missing something?

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From the images you posted, I don't see anything that particularly stands out. Nice job dude.

[HSM76]

Great, thanks for the heads up.

Than I will get to make the roughly 1000 pictures for Lancer in the next days and get the request up.

[HSM76]

Here a link to the thread about my DLT19(X):

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21065-another-dlt19x-dlt19/

[HSM76]

And the quest goes on.

Two projects right now, I'd like to make another pair of boots with leather covering.

But right now I started on another smaller thing:

The RS thermal detonator is nice but I'd like it a bit more screen accurate. For cable I bought white speaker cable:

For the clips 0,5 mm steel. I made templates and started cutting with the Dremel and handling the corners:

 

[CatfoodRob]

The cable you are wrapping yourvtube in is the wrong profile . The RS is a casting off a tube wrapped in the correct profile cable. Maybe just weathering orvrepainting the RS one will help ? Also the RS is light , a " real " tube wrapped with cable is heavy and might pull the belt down at the back . 

The belt clips RS use are the correct size ,and the correct spring steel ., I don't see your issue with them . ,

your boots look excelent ...how hard was it to cut the soles ? I've never tried with RS boots .  But I need to copy your method . 

[HSM76]

Hi Rob,

the RS - TD tube is a bit of a problem, as it is not flexible, during fitting and the first troop the clips were ripped out first right then left. One clip is gone.

Wrapped around the tube, the cable looks like the RS cast Tube.

The boots are not the Boots RS supplied with the kit, those are the Kingshow boots. So I can't say how the RS boot soles can be cut, sorry.

 

[BikerScout007]

The cable is fine for L2.  We don't require the TD be wire wrapped, much less the exact gauge of the wire being used.  We appreciate you even making the effort.  

As we get further away from 1983, it gets more difficult to do things exactly as they were done then and with the same materials.  You're doing a great job and I cannot wait to see your Lancer app.  

[CatfoodRob]

48 minutes ago, HSM76 said:

Hi Rob,

the RS - TD tube is a bit of a problem, as it is not flexible, during fitting and the first troop the clips were ripped out first right then left. One clip is gone.

Wrapped around the tube, the cable looks like the RS cast Tube.

The boots are not the Boots RS supplied with the kit, those are the Kingshow boots. So I can't say how the RS boot soles can be cut, sorry.

 

Ok, I understand . On my own RS tube, I hollowed out the inside and pushed a piece of harder plastic tubing inside it , then made sure the screws holding the belt clips went into the inner tubing ...it's really strong , and has lasted many outings . ( I also fixed black foam between the tubing and the end caps as seen on the originals ... no idea why it's there ! ) 

Did you cut open your overalls to sew on the suede ? Or just stitch it over ... I can't see how to get the sewing machine to stitch the suede on , without cutting the legs open on the outside seam . I certainly take my hat off to,you if you sewed by hand !! 

 

[HSM76]

@BikerScout007: Thanks Mickey for the kind words, bit this is an add-on to my lancer kit. The lancer App was posted in Dec. and I got Lancer rank on Jan 7th. 😄

@CatfoodRob: that would have been a good Idea, Rob. Black foam between endcap and tube? Do you have a picture of that, I never noticed.

How did you get the endcaps off the cast tube?

Concerning the flightsuit, I opened up the seams in the area and sewed it in with the sewing machine. The riding patch is a four part assembly, and sewn in I to the inseams of the legs. I was quite a fight with the sewing machine at some points.