FarEast ST19758 Vanguard Request (APPROVED)

[FarEast]

Armor: Sean Fields - Modified

Helmet: Sean Fields V2

Shirt: Sheev's Emporium

Breeches: Steven Walker

Boots: Orca Bay Brecon Havana

E-22: Sean Fields V2

Soft belt: Jim Tripon

Gloves: Endor Finders

 

TK8271 Rogue Trooper supplied me with test cards of Montana Gold Sahara Beige and Nordic blue - these were then copied exactly using spectrum and pigment analyses and used throughout the build Toyota red as per the CRL was used.

 

 

 

 

 

Helmet Details:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shirt and Neck Seal Bib:

 

 

 

 

 

Chest:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[FarEast]

Abdominal Armour:

 

 

 

 

 

Shoulder Bells/Biceps/Forearms:

 

 

 

 

Soft Belt & Hard Belt:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gloves:

 

 

Shoes:

 

 

[FarEast]

Hip Armour and Details:

 

 

 

 

 

Jodhpurs:

 

 

 

 

Greaves:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Action Shots:

 

 

 

 

 

 

E22 Blaster:

 

Work in progress

[ScaryGuy]

Thanks for your application James. Can you also post detail pictures of your E-22?

[FarEast]

Thanks for your application James. Can you also post detail pictures of your E-22?

 

Right now the E22 is being built - awaiting certain parts such as scope and flashlight, is the blaster actually required for Vanguard status? If so can it be stunt or will it need to be the hero version?

[ScaryGuy]

Right now the E22 is being built - awaiting certain parts such as scope and flashlight, is the blaster actually required for Vanguard status? If so can it be stunt or will it need to be the hero version?

 

I'll have to get back to you on that, but if so both stunt or hero would be fine.

[FarEast]

I'll have to get back to you on that, but if so both stunt or hero would be fine.

 

Awesome thank you - as mentioned its built with all the correct mounts and screws - its awaiting its gun metal finish and scope and flash light.

[ScaryGuy]

James, we looked into your application and we ask you to make the following changes:

 

 

As per basic approval requirement: "2 wedge shaped recesses on the outer edge of each mandible". Yours look straight/flat. Should be like this:

 

 

 

Your chin cup is the wrong type. Look for JSP AHV000-500-000. Should be like this, with 3 oblong cut out shapes all laying flat.

 

 

 

The black bands on your should bell are too thick, and the white band too high from the edge of the shoulder bell. Best way is to take measurements with imaging software from a reference picture and scale those measurements to the actual size of your shoulder bell.

 

Yours:

 

Should be:

 

 

 

Your foam is covering your shoulder bells (BTW did you use plastazote foam?)

 

Maybe you need too trim it, or it could be the way you have attached the foam to your armor. Normally the foam would curve inwards. This is how it curves on mine.

 

 

In the pictures your shins look lighter then your upper armor. Can we get a side by side picture of your shins next to an upper armor piece?

 

 

Also the top piece of the cover strip looks lighter then the rest of the shin.

 

 

 

The black paint inside the front greeblie should be sahara beige

 

 

Like this:

 

 

The sides and back of your boots should be darker and weathered like the front of the boot.

 

 

[ScaryGuy]

We discussed the blaster requirement. If you can’t have a blaster due to local law restrictions, or other reasons, we can make an exemption. But since you obviously have a blaster it should meet the level 2 requirements. So we will need pictures of your finished blaster for your approval.

[FarEast]

Awesome feed back and I really appreciate the fast response and also the excellent reference photos - I can address some of the things immediately.

 

2 wedge shaped recesses on the outer edge of each mandible:

 

 

Colour confrmation:

 

 

Cover strip colour variation:

 

Thank you for that! It was lighter as I hadn't actually weathered it after a hot fix to remove the detail of the cover strip.

 

 

 

 

Shoes:

 

 

 

Front Greeblie:

 

[FarEast]

Also in regards to the shoulder bell another build group has stated that these are the correct ratios, could you confirm this please as the bands seam to be a sticking point for many of us.

 

 

I took my measurements directly from the CRL by scaling the image to my shoulder bells.

 

 

More than happy to repaint - I just want to get it right first time and it seems there is no clear rule of thumb here and its by eye, and due to the curve of the shoulder bell it messes with the perception of band thickness.

 

More detailed imput would be really helpful to the entire community.

[ScaryGuy]

Here's a comparison between your should bell next to a reference picture:

 

 

Using absolute measurements from others only works if everybody is using the exact same armor. But since we have many different types of armor which vary in size and shape this doesn't always work right. The picture with the band measurements that is floating around gets you in the right ball park, which is fine for basic approval, but for level 2 we want to get the proportions right. It's not a one size fits all.

 

So you have to take your own measurements from a reference picture and scale that to your armor. Also be careful when using images from a CRL. These are meant to give an impression on how an (basic) approvable costume could look like, but not always match the requirements for higher levels. It's better to use reference pictures of an original costume.

Still your bottom black band looks thicker, and the white band smaller, then the one in the CRL you are referencing.

 

To get the dimensions for the black and white bands I used an imaging program (in this case Gimp). Using a measurement tool I determined the measurements of an original shoulder bell.

 

 

In the picture the height of the shoulder bell was 164 mm. The black and white bands in the picture are from top to bottom 11.6, 40.2 en 10.9 mm. My shoulder bell has an actual height of 205 mm. So I had to multiply every measurement by 205 / 164 to scale them to my shoulder bell. So the width of the bands for mine are 14.5, 50.2 and 13.6 mm. As you can see the top black band is approx. 1 mm thicker then the bottom one.

Again, this is an example on how it worked for me. You have to do the math for your own shoulder bell. Also check the distance from the bottom edge of the shoulder bell and compare it with screen references. You may have to tweak it a bit if the shape is a bit different from the screen used.

[FarEast]

That’s really helpful thank you!

 

I think I might have it!!

 

 

 

 

[ScaryGuy]

On 7/20/2018 at 2:40 PM, FarEast said:

That’s really helpful thank you!

I think I might have it!!

Those dimensions look good!

[FarEast]

6 hours ago, ScaryGuy said:

Those dimensions look good!

Thank you so much for the references they were a great help and the side by side comparison really showed exactly where the issues were - I appreciate you going out of your way to do that for me.

I have a ton of Plaztizote left over so I will probably remove it and remodel it so that it faces inwards like yours. Again many thanks for the guidance.

[FarEast]

New chin cup just arrived!

And installed!

sprayed it black which will probably flake off leaving a stained look.

 

[FarEast]

E22 Blaster Stunt

E22 Blaster: Sean Fields 3D files - modified

M38 Scope: Bulldog Prop

M300 Tactical Flash light: Airsoft Replica

*Due to Japanese Firearms and Sword laws it is illegal to import the S&T Sterling Airsoft replica - The legal limit on Airsoft replicas in Japan ( 0.98 Joule (325fps)  and as the S&T is rated at 350~380 FPS and would be detained at customs and either sent back to port of origin or destroyed.

[ScaryGuy]

51 minutes ago, FarEast said:

*Due to Japanese Firearms and Sword laws it is illegal to import the S&T Sterling Airsoft replica - The legal limit on Airsoft replicas in Japan ( 0.98 Joule (325fps)  and as the S&T is rated at 350~380 FPS and would be detained at customs and either sent back to port of origin or destroyed.

We don't expect people to buy the actual airsoft gun, the blaster design just has to be based on the airsoft version. E.g. it has to have the grip of the airsoft version instead of the more rounded grip of the original Sterling. Resin casts or 3D printed designs are just fine.

I had a quick glance over it, the bolts in the scope rail should not be sunken:

 

 

[FarEast]

Bolts replaced with correct version:

 

 

 

 

[ScaryGuy]

Getting there, foam seems to be the last remaining issue.

I'm also looking into the red strip on the sides of your blaster. The hero versions had the red strips with functioning leds, the stunt blasters didn't have a red strip.

[FarEast]

The foam is done - just plan on putting the armour back on and taking the shots for you again.

As for the red bar on the blaster - just let me know - two passes with the airbrush is all it takes to change it.

if you could let me know ASAP as I hope to pass soon as I’d love kento put the order in for the racing shirt with vanguard status  

so I really appreciate the effort you’re putting in to help me.

[ScaryGuy]

Allright James, we want to see the red strip only if you have the hero version of the blaster, including all the leds as specified in the optional requirments for the E-22. So if you are sticking with the stunt the red strip should be removed.

[FarEast]

50 minutes ago, ScaryGuy said:

Allright James, we want to see the red strip only if you have the hero version of the blaster, including all the leds as specified in the optional requirments for the E-22. So if you are sticking with the stunt the red strip should be removed.

Understood and will remove red strip

[FarEast]

Upper receiver window repainted to remove the red bar.

[FarEast]

Plastazote and Shoulder Bell correction:

I actually reprinted the Shoulder bells bigger after discussion with other Shoretroopers.I also angled the plastazote in wards as per your recommendation so it naturally goes under the bell.:

Photos courtesy of my Daughter.