blue72beetle Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 What's this magic chemical that bonds PETG? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 It’s called Methylene Dichloride and it melts the plastic and creates a chemical weld - you need to use it in a well ventilated area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 So the endless march continues - The last parts of the Chest plate finished while I was painting the helmet and I started to put the parts together. Now having looked at other build threads and the reference photos I can see where I'm going to need some re-sculpting and actual cutting and reshaping. Spiders! I after bonding one of the side strips that go on the bottom ends, I had to cut them off as from the photo references there is a considerable step between the two plates. Also the central line between the two rectangles on the central plate will need to increased to about 1cm and also the gap on the left and right sides of them - finally I'll also need to add a square in the central line. Not really a problem for any of those sections - although I think it would have been an easy fix in the 3D files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 So some parts finally came for the helmet and printer so I was able to get some work done on both. I started off with a motorcycle bubble lens but due tot he safety requirements trying to heat these to shape pretty much results in them melting. So after an unsuccessful attempt at getting it in to the helmet I went and picked up some Clear Smoke PVC. This can be heat to just 50c and bent into shape so a hairdrier with the air intake partially blocked will do the trick! After cutting to shape I then used Bluetac to hold it in place at either end of the eye slits and took the hairdrier to it - when pliable I then bent the tops over the brow and glued the bottom in with clear hot-glue. I also installed the chin strap with three holes - now this is nylon and the initial painting just flaked off - Sharpie for the WIN! The final task for the evening was to position the internal padding and check the fit to see if there was any areas on the inside that might require sanding back or smoothing, Just a simple case of masking tape folded in half to stick them in. Eyes obscured - Check! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 So with the bucket complete its time to work on the upper torso and back! The first task was to correct the minor details in the build to make it more screen accurate. First of the easy one - the armour needs to flick up a little higher at the ends. As well as making the lines to the front of the armour more straight rather than curved A bit of automotive filler and a bit of sanding and its all good! Next step was a little harder and that was to widen the slots on the front blast plates. Some serious cutting and dremel work needed! More sanding then followed by a heavy coat of black automotive primer. I let this cure for several days as I wanted it to be fully hardened ready for the base cot of Beige Brown. Again I let this cure before applying the Sahara Beige. After more waiting for curing and a little light sanding to remove drips and thickness differences it was to apply the Nordic blue markings. annnnnnnd more waiting! Very happy with the finish however this is way to clean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 So now it was time to move on to the arms, Shoulder bells, Biceps, forearms and hand guards. The forearms went together very nicely - left no post processing, right ready for paint. The fit was perfect on the right arm but due to my accident the left forearm was a very tight squeeze but with a bit of sanding on the inside all was good! The hand plates I increased the size by about 2% as I have large hands - again it worked out pretty good - just need the gloves! Both biceps received a base of Sahara Beige Then the right side got the Toyota red treatment The shoulder bells were a real PITA to print but I got there in the end! From here it was just a matter of painting, weathering and distressing. Also making sure everything fitted correctly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 So the last piece to bring the build log upto date was the backpack - Now first of all I want to say a BIG thank you to Paul Prentice and Stoo Collins whom really helped me out with a lot of the additional detailing and without them this part wouldn't be what it is - the upgrades are relatively easy to make with the right tools and materials so I'm hoping this helps others who are building Sean's incredible armour to tweak theirs - I'm potentially going for a Level II grade armour so hopefully these upgrades won't be in vain. The two backpack parts took an insane amount of time to print mainly due to all the support structure but I'm glad I took my time! Finished one! And on to the next! The parts beautifully mesh together. A few defects but those will be sorted out with automotive body filler. The edges seemed to finish within minutes compared to the backpack! More filling! But finally I had a complete backpack - I was a little confused where to go from here but it kind of started to make sense after looking at the cutting template and such. First things first were the small details on the backpack - holes, raised parts and indentations The should harness mounts have two indentations at the back on either side so I decided to remove the mounts and start again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 Stoo Collin's recommended that I add two more additional details to the build - the most significant being that the side stripe continues up and over the top of the backpack. So to do this I made a mask of the top of the backpack. I then transferred the tape to 0.3mm Tamya PlaCard and cut out so that I would be about 5mm short from the edge and the remainder was trimmed to fit so as to create the lip. All of it was bonded with superglue. The bottom of the backpack has a much larger plate that is clearly visible in many of the photos of the movie costumes. I went about this in the same manner Once the glue has cured it was given a light sanding and then primed ready for the base coat. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaryGuy Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Excellent work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 Last part to make were the backpack greeblies - again many thanks to Lance who pointed out that the boxes were actually angled. Also several of the parts required some attention to get the shape correct. Lot of little parts all available from Sean Field's files Chop - Chop! Primed and ready to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 All that's left is to paint it weather it and distress it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Sorry for going dark on this build - lots and lots have been happening on it and just didn't have enough time to update it! So the next step was to get the shoulders and strapping to movie accuracy! Que - Paul Prentice who offers the most accurate models on the market! So the first job of the day was to sand back the paint and build a ramp to launch the strapping so it leans over at an angle and also a new mount with raiser for the buckles. This was achieved by making a frame using off cuts of PETG plastic sheet and then filling it with automotive filler. Once cured it was sanded to shape, repainted and the strapping attached at the front with bond. As you can see the angle is perfect and swoops up and over the shoulders and tucks into the slots on the back plate The buckles and foam were then attached to the sides of the armour and weathered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Next up was the hard belt - The thermal detonator and pringle can were up scaled to 108% from Sean's original as they were too small in comparison to the movie props. Again I have to thank Paul Prentice who diligently researched this and with those finished assembly and modifications could begin. The hard belt needed to be shaped to meet the contours of the armour and it turned out that my recycling bins in the kitchen were a perfect match! The thermal detonator was modified using 0.2mm Tamiya PlaSheet and then CA glued into place. The same was done for the strap line on the Pringle can as it would sit too low on the hard belt if done the original way. Also additional detailing was added to the top of the can - apparently there are two types of detailing from reference photos and I opted for this one. Let the painting begin! Next on the list was attaching the ammo boxes from Paul Prentice to Rob Kittel's amazing belt and buckle system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 The hip armour was built using the templates provided by one of the awesome members seantrooper - many thanks for sharing this with the community! Because I was unable to get a long roll of plasizone I had to get creative and hide the breaks behind the armoured plates. 1mm Plaplate was added on areas that would take the snaps and also accessories as these would prevent damage to the plastizone if they got caught on anything or through general wear and tear. (I will be reprinting the cyclinders as it turns out the body is too long in comparison to the movie armour. Once everything had cured it was time to hit it with more Sahara Beige and then connect it all together! (Please note that the front of the hip armour has been deliberately left open - I'm reprinting the adbominal armour and can't cut and bond to size until I have a finished piece!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Also today I got two LBB (Little Brown Boxes) of softparts! The undershirt is made by Sheev's Emporium and regarded as the most accurate undershirt and neckseal currently available. The shoes are through Katherine Partis in the UK who supplied the originals to the set, so these are the real deal! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted July 7, 2018 Author Share Posted July 7, 2018 So on with the build, I decided the next step would be the greaves - I had to slightly increase the size of these due to having large calves from my days as a cyclist. Next I went to work on Paul Prentice's awesome buckles; cutting out the back and sanding them smooth. } Then I lopped through a section of his straps and bonded in to place. Also due to the support required I went back to using automotive filler rather than wood filler. My local hardware shop had a 30% sale on so not only did I pick up a new batch of Montana Gold Sahara Beige, but also a new paint gun and air compressor! Painting armour is now going to be so much easier! Also my Rebel Art Base shoretrooper trousers arrived - WOOT! Now time for distressing and then weathering! And so did I! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 So with a final big push I got the Shoretrooper armour finished and submitted for approval! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 Approved! ST 19758 Reporting for duty! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormyStormtrooper Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Congratulations! Wish I'd seen this thread sooner. You did a great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Great build i'm currently printing Seans back panel was the collar Sean's as it looks different to the one i've printed? Also where did you get the template from for the skirt? Cheers in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRoS Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 Hey James! Great thread and amazing build!! just wondering if you still have the pigment codes you used for the Sahara beige color, where I live Montana Gold doesn't ship either so I have to do exactly the same thing you didi in order to get the best matching color. I would greatly appreciate if you could help a brother out, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stumpfmeista Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 Hi, i also put the first steps on the path and my helmet is mostly done with printing. Can you remember, how much rolls of PETG you need to print the whole armour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 On 5/19/2019 at 9:45 AM, IRoS said: Hey James! Great thread and amazing build!! just wondering if you still have the pigment codes you used for the Sahara beige color, where I live Montana Gold doesn't ship either so I have to do exactly the same thing you didi in order to get the best matching color. I would greatly appreciate if you could help a brother out, thanks That's a good question - however see if you can find FLAME Orange or FLAME Blue paints - its the sister company of Montana paints and they have that paint colour range available As for the actual pigment codes I don't actually have them as they are stored on the computer at the company who mixed my paints. The actual pigment codes are available online. 19 hours ago, Stumpfmeista said: Hi, i also put the first steps on the path and my helmet is mostly done with printing. Can you remember, how much rolls of PETG you need to print the whole armour? Sadly I don't I messed up a lot and had to reprint many things like the abdominal armour, pringle cans and other stuff - Also if I was to do this again I would probably increase the wall thickness on many of the parts - especailly the helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 On 11/6/2018 at 3:18 AM, Richard said: Great build i'm currently printing Seans back panel was the collar Sean's as it looks different to the one i've printed? Also where did you get the template from for the skirt? Cheers in advance It' the V2 also I used automotive filler to do some work to look more accurate - if you have Joel's modified parts I think the corrections are in his files - be careful those collar parts are easy to break and I ended up using steel rods in my collar and carbon resin to reinforce and strengthen it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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