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Kashyyyk Scout... a newcomer for real


bib

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Ahhh yes the days of building armor when you look at the clock and then say "I'll just work on this piece a little then hit the hay" and then you look over and the sun's coming up.....It's looking great keep it up!

Thats why I like armor building.. you just immerse youself in it ;)!!! Thanks man still a long road up ahead!

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One step at a time brother. Go slow and be methodical. I know it's hard but you'll reap dividends from it when you get to the end.

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So actually...

 

What we are going to do today is that we decided to mod the hell outta the helmet...

We are trying to re create the original screen-accurate helmet the best we can from this amazing helmet and that means... TONS OF WORK

 

I must say I have zero experiences in modding armors and Im definitely a first timer to bondo... so bear wif me

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trimming off parts (not the whole eye)

 

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And now.. Smearing the bondo

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( Based on our observation, CGI Kashyyyk trooper has wider face and some details... Im trying my best to recreate em)

 

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and...

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and the original helmet

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I guess Ill get more layers of bondo until they are smooth... much more sanding to do..But thats all for now.. I got like 3 hrs before I go to work... Gah! Please let me know what you guys think!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

e6f43e4950fe83649e845d8bd464fb3a.jpgd0b9ad4117315e6d6c64b0ec6ee1f143.jpg

 

added some Ca glue in the mix to increase its strength...

 

Question!!! Should I apply more layers of bondo or shld I sand em smooth with 60 grits?? Feels a bit messed up :(

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Sand first. Then check it and add another layer of bondo, if necessary.

Sanding will show you any "bubbles" or pits. After that use "spot putty" for the small holes...if necessary.

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60G just to take the edges off, them 120G to start rounding down the shae, then 240G to start smoothing it then 500G for the final smoothing. Apply a basecoat of primer and check for the results, if it´s not perfect you can do another round with 500G or 1000G.

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60G just to take the edges off, them 120G to start rounding down the shae, then 240G to start smoothing it then 500G for the final smoothing. Apply a basecoat of primer and check for the results, if it´s not perfect you can do another round with 500G or 1000G.

 

Ahhhh... Maybe Im too focused on thr 60grits... great point! Will try later with 120grits and on and on..!! Thanks for the tip!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I´ve been there bud, it´s all about the patience. You'll get there!

 

I'm re-doing my legs at this time so I got a lot more of this in store too... ;)

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Its been quite a few busy days...

While I finally got time to have a break.. I moved on to a little trail on somethin else..

 

Primed one of the shoulder and Chrome Sprayed it... damn thats shiny!

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After that, I put on a coat of base colour...

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You know, that's not what I have in mind for mine at all.... but I REALLY like it. As far as actual practical camouflage and screen accuracy go, I think it nails it. Any chance of a detailed description of how you did it?

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You know, that's not what I have in mind for mine at all.... but I REALLY like it. As far as actual practical camouflage and screen accuracy go, I think it nails it. Any chance of a detailed description of how you did it?

 

Thank you!! :D Instead of smearing it with sponge, I hand painted the green and brown for the outlying shape first, then comes the sponge for the roughing up the edges. For the chrome, I used the hairspray technique.. just spray a coat of hairspray on the spot u want the chrome to show before spraying the khaki base colour, then use a brush with some water to stratch of the khaki and the chrome base will show! Some others I used sandpaper stratching... Enamel black stains.. etc. Still looking into more better ways of colouring!

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When you say handpainted, do you mean by brush or airbrush? Or from the can?

 

Simply using a paint brush, I thought about airbrush and I may consider using it next time. Handpainting can make desired camo patterns much easier... but more time consuming indeed

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