Shada's WIP build thread

[Shada]

I've taken my first steps into a larger world.

 

After several years of thinking about joining the 501st, several weeks of reading build threads, then introducing myself a couple of weeks ago, I've now made concrete progress in my purchasing and building.

 

I've ordered hard armour from SC, gloves from WW, and a helmet from Spike.

 

It's been fun reading UPS e-mail updates to see the armour and gloves gradually make their way from Colorado and Georgia to LA, then to NZ. The gloves arrived the other day (one size up fitted perfectly) and the armour turned up 9 days after I ordered, which was incredibly fast to travel to the other side of the world (and as a bonus didn't attract any attention from Customs). After reading some threads about trouble others have had with delays from their suppliers, I'm really happy I went with SC.

 

The helmet is due towards the end of April - there's something appropriate about an Aussie sending a helmet to a Kiwi around ANZAC Day.

 

While waiting for the overseas shipments, I've started on the soft parts. I purchased coveralls from an Army surplus shop and de-pocketed it and turned an epaulet into a mandarin collar, while also picking up a lightweight balaclava. I've found a pair of wheat-soled boots from K-Mart - the first and probably only occasion in my life where the sole colour was a determining factor in a footwear purchase. I also found a heavy cotton black t-shirt that I can modify and turn into a flack vest.

 

Over Easter, I plan to start figuring out the sizing of the armour (I don’t think a lot of significant trimming will be needed) and make a bunch of paper patterns using files sourced from BSN, so I can purchase material for the bund/cod, pouches and boots.

 

Now that I've started a build thread, I just need to figure out the best way to post pictures...

[Oblivian]

You cheeky devil

 

I got stung, and it was even during christmas

[Scavenger]

http://s5.photobucket.com/ - free account, provides right-click save imbedded photo links, easy to upload and share

[Retrofire]

Yay! Another kiwi build! Check out Oblivian's thread. Waiting is the worst part. I'm waiting for my bucket to come in and it feels like it's taking forever...

 

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[Shada]

Thanks Scavenger - I kept seeing references to Photobucket so I appreciate the link.

 

Some initial photos:

 

 

 

 

 

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[Oblivian]

Watch the guides vs the CRL... the use of elastic differs to the included instructions.

 

And someone will correct me, but not sure youll get away with the buttons/snaps showing on the overalls.

 

Hrm, mixed bag again. I didn't need to paint my tubing, was already grey. but that looks near white.

[Shada]

Thanks - I'm planning to annotate my instructions with Lancer specs and Panda's instructions before starting the build.

 

Tube is a light gray, not as white as the picture suggests but lighter than I've seen some - will need to compare with reference shots to be sure. I'll think about how to hide the top snap - it may look different with the mandarin collar closed properly.

 

 

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[Shada]

Questions - I said I'd ask a lot of questions, and lots of people encouraged me to, so here goes:

Fabric

• The CRL says "matt white, heavy weight cotton fabric". I was clearing through some excess material from our old curtains and discovered that on the other side of the printed face I've looked at for years is a smooth matt white colour. It looks good to me, and is definitely a heavy weight cotton, so is it suitable for my soft armour?
  

TD tube

• Oblivion noted that my TD tube appears near white, rather than gray. I've attached a photo of the tube and white end caps on a sheet of white paper - the tube is definitely a gray colour rather than pure white, but looks lighter than the screenshots of the TB on the speeder, although not far off the colour in the MotM exhibit. The lower tube is from an old vacuum cleaner that I found that is the same diameter but a darker gray (almost silver). Are either of these acceptable or do I need to paint?
  
• Also, the MotM and some screen caps show the TD lopsided - with more tubing visible to the left than the right - while intuitively it seems better to have it centred (and some pics seem to show this) - is there a standard about how much should protrude from each side?
  

Sizing - this picture shows my first test-sizing (rather than a bizarre attempt at a bright green camo pattern).

• There's about a 1" gap between the chest/back at the shoulders, while the underarm distances are around 5-6" - I can't see any specifications that say what the gaps should be, but this feels ok to me - is it acceptable?
  
• Shoulder/bicep/forearms - I know I need to round off the shoulder bell corners, but wonder if the other sizes/gaps are acceptable? Should I shorten the bells to make room to shift the other armour further up the arm?
  
• Bicep (not shown here) my SC armour comes with some U-clips to help secure the bicep greebly (fits in the gap between the square and rectangle, then goes through the holes to twist behind) - is this something a lot of people use, and/or would adding it clash with Lancer status?
  
• Cod - ignore the paper pattern for the cod here, I've already modified it to be shorter/narrower.
  
• Flight suit - I bought this from an Army Surplus store - it's definitely long enough but seems a bit too baggy - am I right in thinking I'll need to tighten it up?
  

 

 

 

Thanks for any suggestions you have.

[wookieevader]

I don't think anyone uses the wire for the biceps. Get a tube of E6000 and glue them on. Everything else looks ok to me.

[Retrofire]

Agree with wookievader drop the wire and go with adhesive on the t-bits. You can also add elastic to the bottom of your flight suit for your feet, like a stirrup, so it's nice and tight when you pull your boots on.

 

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[Shada]

Some Easter progress :-)

 

Over the weekend, I've made a cummerbund and cod out of the old curtain material, and made a start on my boots.

 

Bund - this came together reasonably well, once I figured out the sizing and where the various bits of velcro would go. My biggest realisation is that the combination of two layers of cotton and padding (on top of a flight suit and vest) means that this will be really hot to wear.

 

I took a leaf out of Panda's book and added some foam and a plastic insert (old ice cream container) into the cod to give it some shape. After following a few threads about one- vs - two-piece cods and bunds, I've left it as two pieces attached with velcro at the back, so I can adjust the height as needed.

 

Boots - this was the bit that filled me with trepidation when I first started looking into a TB build - the idea of stretching vinyl over boots in a hot car. It turned out to be easier than expected and I'm amazed how much stretch there was in it. The boots are drying now so I hope to put on the 3/4 strip and uppers/dogbone over this week.

 

[Shada]

Some Easter progress :-)

 

Over the weekend, I've made a cummerbund and cod out of the old curtain material, and made a start on my boots.

 

Bund - this came together reasonably well, once I figured out the sizing and where the various bits of velcro would go. My biggest realisation is that the combination of two layers of cotton and padding (on top of a flight suit and vest) means that this will be really hot to wear.

 

I took a leaf out of Panda's book and added some foam and a plastic insert (old ice cream container) into the cod to give it some shape. After following a few threads about one- vs - two-piece cods and bunds, I've left it as two pieces attached with velcro at the back, so I can adjust the height as needed.

 

Boots - this was the bit that filled me with trepidation when I first started looking into a TB build - the idea of stretching vinyl over boots in a hot car. It turned out to be easier than expected and I'm amazed how much stretch there was in it. The boots are drying now so I hope to put on the 3/4 strip and uppers/dogbone over this week.

 

[Oblivian]

And I'm being left behind again

 

Either I've lost weight (well go with that) or miscalculated somewhere. My bund now overlaps too much and wont close. So back to the drawing board. And still perplexed by drop box length until I've got the placement of everything else sorted to finally cut and make the belt webbing

 

I must have got the wrong vinyl from spotlight. Damned if I can get much stretch out of it to sit nicely

[Retrofire]

Brian,

I was looking at your pics above and wanted to ask if you were wearing your vest underneath your chest armour and shoulder bells? I couldn't tell from the picture. The reason I ask is that you might want to make sure that you're sizing your upper armour to include your vest or it might be a little tight.

[Shada]

Oblivion - I got my vinyl from Pete's Emporium (not sure if there's a Chch equivalent but it's like a combination of Warehouse, Spotlight and Mitre 10 but cheaper - $12 for 1m). Stretched well.

Retrofire - thanks for the tip. I haven't made my vest yet but will allow for it when sizing.

 

 

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[Chunk]

Are you done with the streching process on your boots? From the pics that will not work. They need to be heated & streched a minimum of 3x. You will know they are done because it will look like the boot is white & not covereved with vinyl. There should be NO sloppyness around the bottoms. If your pic is only after your 1st streching & you just didnt post updated & you have the smoothness. Ignore this 😉

[Shada]

Thanks Chunk - yes, that was my first stretch (in fact I think it was the initial pinning before putting in the car). All up I repinned about 5 times, really seeing the difference in the last few as it started looking like it was painted on. I'll post some more pictures tomorrow once I've trimmed off the excess.

 

 

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[Shada]

The finished, glued boots:

 

I see most people run the 1/2 inch strip around the toes and stop at the dog bone. I'm thinking of running it all the way around the boot, so that the base colour is covered if the back bits ride up a little (which seems to happen in the MotM photos) - it's the sort of thing that won't be seen generally, but eliminates a gap if needed - is this allowed?

 

 

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[Stroker]

To answer your above question the screen used boots didnt have the strip all the way around. If you get the vinly cut nice and even it'll set right on top of the sole at the back hiding the top of the sole. Also your good on the color of the sole it's one color and very close to the screen used boots sole color. Also those boots look sharp with the sole notched out like the screen used ones.

[Shada]

Thanks Stroker - I'll stick to having it stop at the dogbone

 

 

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[Shada]

More progress this weekend - I'm chipping away a little at a time but think I'm on the right track.

 

Added the toe trim to the boots - I was really pleased with how it curved nicely around the shape of the upper sole:

 

Followed Panda's approach and added snaps to the drop box webbing and inside belt, with a couple of fabric-covered ones to go on the rear of the belt:

 

Added some shims inside the knee for the rivets to attached to:

 

And actually built up the nerve to start cutting ABS by rounding the shoulder bell curves (using a Play-Doh tub to get the 1.75" diameter curve):

 

Finally, I've got a local design shop to 3D print a blaster, using the files in this link: http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=12130

 

 

I have to think about what I'll do about finishing and weathering the blaster, but it's nice to know I have something to put in my holster once the boot is finished! I'm also looking at various build threads about how to hold it in, as it does rattle around a lot - probably will go with a combination of padding and a magnet built into the trigger guard.

 

Plans for the rest of the week: work on the boot uppers (already cut, just need to confirm sizing and stitch velcro on), add greeblies to bicep armour and start cutting/sewing elastic and velcro for the arms and legs.

 

See you round the forest.

[Oblivian]

Dang. I envy those boots. I've still not touched mine since throwing the toys for Armageddon Just can't get the toe area to play nice Might have to bite bullet and get Kmart ones as well

 

So belt, unfinished. Not cut the webbing for drop boxes. Probably have to re-do my bund (too much overlap on velcro now!) and boots. And vest. Couple of reasonable troops I could target. But the failure to meet prior deadline has taken a toll.

[Retrofire]

Dang. I envy those boots. I've still not touched mine since throwing the toys for Armageddon Just can't get the toe area to play nice Might have to bite bullet and get Kmart ones as well

 

So belt, unfinished. Not cut the webbing for drop boxes. Probably have to re-do my bund (too much overlap on velcro now!) and boots. And vest. Couple of reasonable troops I could target. But the failure to meet prior deadline has taken a toll.

 

No worries Scout! We all take it a step at a time. Just focus on one thing for the moment and take it to completion and move on to the next one. Right now I'm focusing on my returns and the pile of sandpaper to go through to get it as smooth as you mention in your build thread. We're all behind you brother so be encouraged and know that we're here for you when you need.

[Shada]

Oblivion - I agree with Retrofire, just keep moving . I've been reading both of your threads (and others) for inspiration, and you're way ahead on the actual hard armour, so don't stop now.

 

I only cut the drop box webbing at this point because I liked Panda's approach of attaching it to velcro inside the box, rather than the SC default of having one strap going through both sides and then connecting to the belt - this meant sizing isn't an issue yet and it was an easy step to do without having to shape plastic!

 

Not sure about your boot dilemma - is it the boot shape itself or the stretchiness of the vinyl that's the problem? I just looked at your boot pictures on the O42 thread and it looks like you pinned it to the bottom of the sole, whereas I put pins in the side first, which gave me good traction for the stretching, and then pushed more into the top of the sole (the sticky-outy bit). The other tip i found somewhere and followed was to stuff the toes with newspaper, so that the boot had a firm surface for stretching over.

[Retrofire]

 

I only cut the drop box webbing at this point because I liked Panda's approach of attaching it to velcro inside the box, rather than the SC default of having one strap going through both sides and then connecting to the belt - this meant sizing isn't an issue yet and it was an easy step to do without having to shape plastic!

 

Yeah, I did the same. I sewed hook onto my drop box webbing and stuck the loop into the insides of the drop boxes just underneath the slots. It makes it easier to adjust the height of the boxes. I didn't like the look of just stringing the webbing through both sides like it mentions in the SC instructions. Doing it that way kept it from sitting cleanly against my leg. Great work! Keep it up!