greenyone

Nice! baby steps my friend. Just 1 component at a time and it will eventually come together. I'd strongly suggest learning to do some basic sewing though. Machines are relatively cheap..even cheaper in the used market. It doesn't take much practice to run one for basic stitches. The only thing I had difficulty with was the flak vest. IMO that particular garment is complicated (sleeves and such). Just about everything else was a strait stitch..very easy.

Still a lot of wood shaping to do, but here are the majority of the parts dry fit together.

For the inner barrel Happy Trooper uses tape wrapped around the wooden dowel to center it within the outer barrel. I went back to the CNC machine and cut some rings that will accomplish this without the use of tape. One on each end the barrel should get the job done. On final assembly I'll use more PVC cement to keep these in place.

Happytrooper includes a template for the pvc parts as well. Those come in handy. For the barrel you simply wrap the printed template around a 2 foot store bought piece of 1-1/4 diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe. This gives you not only a length cut guide, but also markers for the barrel holes. A drill press makes this a bit easier but a hand drill would get the job done too.

Something I did not show in earlier posts....but when I imported the .svg files in my cad/cam program I added some 1/4 inch locating holes in the wooden parts. As these are cut out then sandwiched together in layers, the holes with dowels inserted make lining things up a bit easier when gluing & clamping them together.

Mock-up with the barrel.

Fits nicely in the hand.

Happy Troopers tutorial calls for using some small metal brackets to attach the PVC parts to the wooden receiver. That involves drilling holes in the sides of the PVC couplers and tube to accept some screws, followed by using some putty to cover the screws once installed. I opted for a different approach which involves cutting some discs to fit and be bonded inside the pvc parts. No external screw holes to hide with putty this way.

I'm sure this one has been done before but I thought I'd add my take on it. This is obviously a budget build. I was able to source most of the materials at Lowes. The parts and tutorial are here: https://happytrooper.com/?p=5594 His tutorial really only requires a few hand tools, a jig-saw and a drill or Dremel and the ability to print out his supplied pdf templates. I'm fortunate enough to have access to a desktop CNC router, so my build differs from his a bit. First step was to download the templates. They are offered in .svg as well as .pdf. My first attempt at using his .svg files with my cad/cam program resulted in a receiver that was big enough to satisfy Hulk sized hands. I guess the scaling didn't translate well between whatever he used to create his files and the program I use. So just be wary of those .svg files if you go the same route as I did....they may need resized. I printed out the .pdf's in 'actual size' (which looked a bit more realistic than what I was seeing in the .svg's). That allowed me to take some measurements on the paper version to apply to the cad vectors.

Another alternative to epoxies is to make a 'slurry paste' from scrap ABS and Acetone. (scale modeler trick) Same concept though...when applied It creates a chemical weld unlike surface bonding glue or putty. Just put some acetone in a glass jar and start dropping in small scraps of white ABS. Close it up the jar and let it sit overnight or until the scraps dissolve. Add more scraps or acetone until it become the consistency you prefer to work with. That being said, why did you decide to fill that gap between the tank and back-plate? Seems unnecessary. My understanding is that the tank should actually appear to be floating/strapped to the back plate.

Assuming it was already painted, you'd need to know what brand and shade of paint was originally used to even have a chance at a decent match. This job may be better suited for an airbrush. That would allow you to play around with tinting/mixing and probably offer a better blending spray pattern than you could achieve with a rattle ran. Got any friends who do scale modeling? Those guys almost always have airbrush equipment.

It would be difficult to pattern this part. You really kinda gotta get your suit fitted up properly, put some armor parts in place (for reference) and sketch it out in chalk to make sure the patches will line up with your body shape.

I got by with a sub $100 Brother LX3817 refurb machine from Amazon.

Most rattle can paints perform just fine if you follow the suggested instructions on temperature, re-coat times and etc. You may want to consider testing some different brands and shades of white to find one that most closely mimics the shade of your armor. I used a Krylon gloss white over white primer on mine. It is ever so slightly more yellow than my SC armor. I'm probably the only one who would ever notice such a minor difference, but if you're the OCD type you may want to do some test spray outs and compare the different paints to your armor.

They are just 2 inch (50mm) black elastic straps. Should be available at any fabric store, ebay, amazon etc... example: https://www.amazon.com/lusata-2-inch-Elastic-Stretch-Elasticity/dp/B071D37ZDS/ref=sr_1_6?crid=39SG2LRZLI978&keywords=2+inch+black+elastic&qid=1573047253&sprefix=2+inch+black+el%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-6

Have you looked at Mickey's suit mod thread? It's a good place to start.

I'm on the smaller side too but not as slim as you...I was having the same issue with the bund. (Chest wider than waist) I sewed in some wedge shaped 'tucks' behind where the pouches hang to take up that extra material around the waist.

This is a resin bucket (not ABS)...but you get the idea.

Drill small holes around the perimeter, then snip between them to get the bulk of the material out of there....then carefully sand or file to shape the hole.

I have these on mine. I cut the upper ankle portion of the boot off, so the no-tie laces are only the bottom 4 lace holes. So now they fit more like a slip on shoe inside the faux scout boot upper. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186Z4YSE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dennis, I know some recommend the long version, but in my experience the regular was plenty big (actually too big in my case). Again, I'm only 5-9. I think coveralls in general are made with extra room in the crotch so that you can pull them up to your waist then lift the rest up onto your shoulders without jamming your twig and berries. I'd imagine the long versions have even more crotch room. The problem with that is once it's hanging on your shoulders and all zipped up you may experience a crotch sag. (this is probably entirely dependent on the length of your torso though) This caused me issues with my cod looking nice/sitting flat on my nethers instead of bunched up with camel toe. I ended up taking length out of my suit by separating it at the waist and hemming it up a bit to get rid of that crotch sag. (BTW this was a royal pain in the a$$ to do given that there is a zipper involved) In the end, this made the suit a bit more difficult to get over the shoulders, but I can still wiggle into it and IMO just looks better once the whole costume is in place. Best of luck on your journey. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP6rE0lfKk45Fv-pzQmWjh7PiqM-TCeZIraq1MjrKNVqye-qGD_u69oau9q5S1tPQ?key=Q1Q1WGtYb0RDeTg1eEdwaWlqb2pNVm9JajZfdnFn

Cucblack/Kriptontop is in Bolivia. So as others have suggested, choose the FedEx option for delivery and be prepared to wait a month or two for his products.

I'm a little smaller than you at 5-9 160 and I got the RedKap 42. I'm on the smaller size but I usually wear that size suit jacket because I have broad shoulders. That being said... I had to take a lot of material out of mine to get it form-fitted to my frame where it was bunching up in places under my armor and soft-parts. (I think coveralls are actually meant to be worn over clothes, hence the extra room) My suggestion would be to order two....buy one true to size and one smaller. If you order from the likes of retailers like Amazon you can always choose the better fitting one and send the other one back. The wampa gloves are confusing. I ordered a large and they feel a bit small. They are breaking in and stretching over time though. I tried on another scouts brand new XL's and honestly they did not feel much different than my L's. So at the very least I'd order one size up than what you'd normally wear in a glove.

It's my understanding that the Wampa wear suit is not much different than any generic black coverall.... other than it already has the mandarin style collar flap in place. You'd still need to add the leather patches, butt flap, leg straps and etc... And given that the collar is probably the most simple modification to make to a Red-Kap, Dickies or any other generic coverall it hardly seems worth the extra cost to fiddle with the Wampa Wear suit. Having just recently finished my TB build, I can say there does not seem to be a whole lot of flak-jacket makers around at this time. The two that I know of that are currently taking orders are Steph's Imperial Outfitters on FB. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1517600621664236/ and Cucblack/Kriptontop on Etsy (if you dare). https://www.etsy.com/shop/KriptonTop?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=251066604

I love that the reviews are mostly from star wars costumers.