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KOtrooper

Detachment Costume Advisor
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KOtrooper last won the day on September 1

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About KOtrooper

  • Birthday June 21

Retained

  • Member Title
    Detachment Costume Advisor

Profile Information

  • Level II Badge
    Lancer and Vanguard
  • Supporter Badge
    2022
  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    USA

501st Information

  • Name
    Melody
  • 501st Designation
    38694
  • 501st Garrison
    Garrison Titan
  • 501st Profile Page
    https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=25552
  • Approved Pathfinder Kits
    Scout Trooper: ROTJ
    Shoretrooper: Captain

Recent Profile Visitors

605 profile views
  1. I use a TK talkie for my setup on the Shore and Bikerscout. You can have different costume profiles with it. I used helmet pads i got off amazon. Two of them are placed under the eyes so the bucket rests on my cheekbones and my nose doesn't get squished.
  2. Yes, that's the area. It is wise to hold off and finish the weathering all of the armor at once for consistently. Nice work! Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  3. I'd hit the boots with some baby powder to easily get more weathering detail in the creases and elastic. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  4. Great progress! It could be the lighting but the top groove of the tusks could use a little bit more grime in order to be more defined. Glad the sun came out so you spray paint more. I've had so many frustrating chemical reactions spraying this kit. Even after weeks of cure time. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  5. I make my slurry pretty thick and do multiple light passes. Remember, the armor doesn't need to be rock hard - just has to look like it. I'd fill in the back of the sniper knee with the foam and paintable caulk - it's more forgiving than bondo. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  6. What do you think you'll need Bondo for? It has a tendency to crack. For filling cracks/gaps - think about doing ABS slurry or even paintable caulk.
  7. Your build is looking great! Undershirt looks fantastic! Did you have to sew the ribs or was that all just in the fabric? Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  8. Hey Kerstin - after you work on the undershirt and cummerbund, I would move onto the strapping of the chest and back armor. The fit and feel of it changes quite a bit when you get it firmly strapped under the arms. That will help you to then build out the shoulder bells and biceps. The cummerbund is supposed to sit on top of the belt and the belt is "supposed" to be around your belly button. When I did that though, my bund looked stupid small. I cheat my belt down on my hips in order to get a more proportional look for the bund. Hope that helps.
  9. Have you already weathered them? You can really change up the look after weathering. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  10. If the foam isn't an option, you can also snap or Velcro to your shirt. If we can't see the strapping method - it doesn't matter. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  11. You're off to a great start. Don't forget to paint the oblong on the chest black. You might need to shove some foam in the forearms to prevent rotation. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  12. You can buy some nice ones from Mr. Paul. I made my own with some styrene and foam rectangles. Hit it with a few coats of plastidip and paint and it looked fine. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk
  13. Unless it is spelled out in the CRL, if we can't see it - we can't comment on it.
  14. I went with a TK talkie for sound effects and voice amplifications. Tons of options that I can move from costume to costume. Static bursts might not be cannon for the Shore but it's still fun.
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