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TKZombie

501st Pathfinder
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Everything posted by TKZombie

  1. Some of the Lancer details could apply. Elastic straps used are unique to the Mandalorian so there are those details. As well as the extra seam line on the back flap of the cummerbund. The leg pockets of the flight suit are flat across the bottom of the flap. Happy to help contribute if you want to build out a Level 2.
  2. Any chance there will be a equivalent of Lancer for the Mandalorian scout?
  3. Thanks! The ST is a challenging one! The Cylon is a fun one! The sounds and robotic voice are amazing! Here are a few photos. I've updated it it since for screen accurate gloves, a new backpack/neck collar that's screen accurate, I made a replica of the belt they used as well and have a screen accurate bodysuit but haven't done photos of all that as everything went to hell shortly after I finished upgrading it all.
  4. Bicep and Forearms trimmed along with cover strips and inner shins. Inner shins installed to allow for surface for gluing the overlap flap. Assembled together, cover strips added. Leaving the biceps open at the back. Forearms are closed. Quick fitting. The forearms tend to rotate so I'm think of adding a magnet inside and magnet inside the sleeve to keep them in place.
  5. Alex, You’re making it a lot harder on yourself than you need to. If you trim with lexan scissors you’ll have minimal sanding to do. You can get a set of straight and curved from Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/Hobbypark-Scissors-Straight-Bodyshell-Helicopter/dp/B08N48C2RW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=lexan+scissors&qid=1620184151&sprefix=lexan+&sr=8-6
  6. Are you using the dremel grinding wheel to cut the excess off? If you are that’s likely creating a lot of extra sanding work. A pair of lexan scissors with the curved blade is what I use for 90% of trimming unless it’s a straight cut like cover strips then it’s a score and snap method.
  7. Thanks so much. Later then I wanted and I missed being the CRL model but it’s fine, as it’s finished the way I wanted it to look and I’m very happy with it. Now if only trooping would resume...
  8. Photos submitted yesterday and approved today. Another costume down. Now to get back to my Shoretrooper Grunt build and Din Djarin Beskar build. Approved Costumes: ANH Stunt Stormtrooper, ANH Centurion Hero Stormtrooper, ANH Sandtrooper, ANH Tusken Raider (RL/501ST Approved), ESB Snowtrooper, ROTJ Pagetti Rook, ROTJ Scout Trooper, Mandalorian Scout Trooper, ANH Luke Skywalker X-Wing Pilot, ESB Luke Skywalker Snowspeeder Pilot, ESB Hoth Luke Skywalker.
  9. Thanks, I'll try...
  10. Well surgery recovery has been SLOW but I'm finally at a point where I can pick up my build again. Today I was able to take my submission photos for my Mandalorian Scout Trooper that's been done for months but I was unable to kit up. Here's a few photos of that costume. Time to get building again so I get get it ready for paint as it gets warm enough here in a few weeks. Mandalorian Scout Trooper
  11. Well there were far too many delays with this one but its done and I'm pleased with it despite the weathering taking 3 passes before I felt I got it right. I also forgot how hot costumes are in this year lull of trooping. Scout Trooper - Mandalorian complete and ready for submission.
  12. Thanks, recovery was difficult and slow but I'm well enough to finally suit up. This one took me a while to get it to where I was happy with the weathering but I think I finally figured out the look for this one.
  13. Well after along break due to a major surgery I had in January I've finished up my Mandalorian Scout Trooper. Fully dressed photos this week but here are the final weather pieces. Helmet Chest, Shoulders, and Back Cummerbund and Cod Thermal Detonator Belt Knees Bicep Forearms Boots
  14. Your doing the Shoretrooper Captain, correct? I ask because it looks like you have the belt pieces for Squad Leader. There are no thigh pieces so thats not missing. You look like you only have one end cap for the thermal detonator, and need two, and your missing the body of the thermal detonator. And if your doing the Captain your missing the vertical canister and its end caps and greeblie piece. The armoured skirt is an item you need to make, no kit maker offers that with the pieces. But you can order a finished ready to paint from Mr. Pauls Shoretrooper Build on Facebook. The red box outline parts should be the connects for the chest to the back plate.
  15. You need to fill in all those ridges on the nose part under the eye hole. Also in the corners of the cheeks are little pin holes that need to be filled. Whatever imperfections you see now will only be made worse once painted. You have to be really diligent filling all the Imperfections now as trying to fix them once you put the paint down is a nightmare. Give it another pass filing every spot and show us, with the visor off so we can see the seam front, sides and back.
  16. You said “spackle” not sure what you meant by that. Hopefully not spackle for drywall patching. I’d recommended bondo glaze spot putty for filling the seams and imperfections. It dries quick, sands easily and well. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bondo-glaze-spot-putty-133-ml-0475662p.html#srp
  17. You need to bondo fill that centre seam and sand that out before you move to paint.
  18. Etsy https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/594048217/original-czech-yugoslavia-serbian-army but it’s a crapshoot on the colour you receive and condition.
  19. Ha! Fixed! Sat it in a box with a bowl of Vinegar for a week which took the smell away.
  20. My M65 Pouch originally arrived covered in a white mold/residue and horrible mildew smell. I cleaned it with a leather clearer and then applied a leather conditioner as well as sitting it with Vinegar to remove the smell which worked. But after it sat for a few months I checked on it and the white residue returned, at least no strong smell. I bought Saddle Soap to try and it cleaned it up easily but I believe the white reside will continue to return over time. I guess its going to need continual cleaning. If anyone has a extra pouch they'd be interested in selling please let me know. I've tried a couple vendors that sell them from their bulk collection but said the pouches are packed randomly and can't offer one clean which is super annoying.
  21. Don’t trim to fit your arm pieces until you have the actual shirt you’re wearing. Trim to for over that. The forearms should be closed. You slide your hand through and put your glove with hand plates on afterwards
  22. Recovery from surgery is very slow but it is progressing. I was able to lay in bed and add buttons for the suspenders on my pants. Darkside Closet Shirt and Pants, Genuine British RAF/MOD/Army Braces with Leather Buckles - Size 110cms, Gloves from Endorfinders, and Boots are Orca Bay Brecon - Sand. Hopefully In a few weeks I can get back to trimming and assembling the rest of the armour.
  23. I never heard issues with e-6000. Was it really old? Are you use the right type? There are different kinds out there. https://www.amazon.ca/Eclectic-Craft-329321/dp/B00VA92TEA/ref=asc_df_B00VA92TEA/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292939360209&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2709836071801764152&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000837&hvtargid=pla-397674305925&psc=1 are you using enough? I apply a heavy application bead around the whole perimeter and then zig-zap back forth in the middle top to bottom. do you sand both pieces so the have some rough texture to help adhere? 80 or 100 grit for that. you should apply to both pieces and wait a minute to set up them press together and clamp, tape and magnet for 24 hours to dry. I’d caution against superglue as separating pieces is generally impossible and often breaks the abs if pried on. Unless you are a really experienced builder and know exactly where pieces go I’d highly caution against it.
  24. Your shins are really wide fitting especially at the bottom. The covers are also too high up. Hopefully you used e-6000 so you can peel them off. Start at the bottom and apply gentle pressure as it lifts you can cut into the glue to help it come apart, sometimes a little low heat will soften and help should lift up. What references are you following? Someone’s build? Rogue One Screen shots? The costume display photos? Here is a link to how the Imperial Surplus kit is put together. The kit is somewhat different than yours but similar but should offer some helpful guidance. Also it’s the tank commander build but they are very similar overall, mostly just minor details are different. I recommend watching all 16 videos and referencing back to each as you work on each section. I’d caution against CA Glue used as that’s permanent and for very experienced builders only as there is no room for error. Stick with e-6000 as it can be taken apart. As I tell anyone building, getting a kit is only half the work, reference and research is the other half. I have 11 approved costumes and with each I spent easily a month or more researching the costume, studying photos from screen grabs to dozens of build treads. Search for assembly videos if possible. I collect hundreds of reference photos and organize them into each part and I study those as I work on each part. Triple checking all the references I have. if in doubt ask questions, and generally if you’re unsure, get a couple rolls of painters masking tape. And assemble a pieces with a ton of tape and post a photo for opinions. The 850 kit is from what I’ve seen quite large. I had their shin to use for my Mandalorian and I had to trim the hell out of it to make it work.
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