TheDon

I did that. I think my issue is I may have cut the sides too short.

anyone having issues with the TD and pringle can armor piece? I have mine velcro'd to the fabric belt but I'm not 100% confident the velcro will always hold. Especially when people try to put their arm around me for a photo (which I usually can move out of the way and avoid)

On the portion that snaps to the flower petals I'm moving my snap from the outside of the armor to the inside. The belt I purchased and its velcro'ing method , for lack of better words, sucks. So I need as much slack as I can get. Having it snap on the outside of the flower pedals takes up valuable belt inches.

I have yet to put fans in any of my buckets and with the size of the ST bucket there is room but I haven't a need for them even in the FL humidity.

You don't really need the actual buckles since the screen used armor used cast versions of it.

I used foam strips down the middle of the shin and glued the greeves directly to it. I also got creative in foam sculpting and added more to the greeves so the glue had more surface to adhere to on both parts.

I'm using the MICH (military kevlar helmet pads) pads in my ST bucket but they need to be maybe 1/4" or slightly more thick. I found these on the google and the amazon https://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Upgrade-Pads-Helmet-Velcro/dp/B00A4TNQ8A I hope these help me with my issue of the helmet lens resting on my nose as well as tigheten up the fit. For my lens I bought the Hobart grinder shield face mask from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770580-Shield-Replacement-Shaded/dp/B002VECKRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487259070&sr=8-1&keywords=hobart+face+shield+lens I really like this lens, its almost like a pair of sunglasses when you wear the bucket. Didn't attempt to heat bend it to fit but I have a scrap I can test. anyone else using the hobart lens?

I used 1 can for the helmet, and 2.5 for the armor I did a basecoat of a high build primer and then flat black, and then the top coat.

Yeah, it's upside down. But if you hold the blaster upside down the counter is right side up

Sean's lastest release has a bracket that mounts to the main body of the blaster and appears to just glue onto the hengstler.

the hose greebs do not need to be 100% silver. They vary from armor to armor. I suggest some dry brushing with silver and go from tehre.

Compared to a standard issue TK, the ST is a semi complicated build. I was one of the firsts to complete mine in my armor makers build group and it was a lot of trial and error. But we are at a point now where most of it has figured out. cost wise compared to a TK it is SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive

shhhhhhh

I was going to use elastic to keep mine closed so I can store my keys inside it but I ended up gluing both caps on. In the movie you can see some of the guys with Saw have pringle cans mounted on their vests as well.

wonder where it clips onto the armor if it does.

I used scrap ABS and traced out the boxes and just put crazy glue on the edges and then pressed the boxes on. Chicago screws (loctite on the threads) through that ABS piece through the belt.

I like the liquid latex. Takes 5 minutes to dry and if I screw up the masking I just wipe it clean and its ready to go again . I spent about 2 hours weathering the entire hard armor with sand paper and black/brown acrylic paints. I dont use the cheap 99 cent paints since those never work well enough for me. But I applied with a sponge in sections and immedialty buffed it out with a 0000 steel wool pad. pics coming soon

I'm using liquid latex masking fluid from Joann Fabric. the edges come out sharp and I am also using a sea sponge to create random patterns where I want chips. I am going light on the masking fluid so I do not end up like a chocolate chip cookie.

In my opinion the ab box detail is too narrow on the Gen2 and the back plate as well is too narrow.

Get the official boots now while they are still being made.

I think its the vertical nature of the ribs fabric thats causing the confusion. It's black.

You can get the Toyota Red 3E5 at auto zone still. It's a common Toyota color. The Nordic Blue can be had from PaintScratch.com. Search for a 1968 Ford "Other Models" and its the Aculpulco Blue

After looking through all of the reference photos of the ST armor I noticed a few things liquid masking for hard edges and paint chips heavy scratching / gouging wear through paint layers or wear through to base material respray over worn through areas or paint chips acrylic washes galore sand, sand, sand in every crevice possible. You never leave the beach So with this armor there will be many weathering techniques to be used and no two will look the same. in the coming days ill post up my work. Just wanted to jot down my thoughts

just wait. hopefully we get an answer soon on those

Is that backed with a floor mat?