StoutScout

Oh Snap! Awesome pics and build!

Are any different pictures needed?

Blaster:

Boots:

Cummerbund:

Flight Suit: Flak Vest:

Helmet:

Knees:

Chest: Shoulder Bells:

Biceps: Forearms: Gloves:

Belt: Thermal Detonator:

Name: Nick Chinnici TKID: TB 51415 Garrison: 70th Explorers, Gateway Squad Helmet: Altmann Armor: Studio Creations Boots: Handmade Cummerbund: Handmade Pouches: Handmade Flak vest: Handmade Gloves: Wampa Wear Flight suit: Modified Red Kap Blaster: DVH HiRes image gallery: http://imgur.com/a/zAQUW

Looks great!

Working towards Lancer I had one major hurdle to get past with my SC kit: So my goal was to turn my 3-piece SC belt into a seamless 1-piece. You saw in one of my previous posts that I created a new TD. I took my old TD end caps, cut them up and made some ABS slurry out of them with acetone: After several days the ABS scraps melted away and eventually enough of the acetone evaporated that I got a perfect slurry: Here is a picture of the seam in the 3-piece belt: Here is after I applied the slurry and let it dry for 24 hours: And finally after a lot of TLC with several different levels of sandpaper: I'm really happy with how this turned out.

I will start off by saying, YES I KNOW SCOUTS DIDN'T HAVE VOICE MODULATORS! There now that that is out of the way I decided to have a little fun with installing a cheap voice changer into my helmet. I've never really liked the sound of my voice while in costume, I don't feel like I sound intimidating enough, so I started looking into voice modulator options. Recently on a trip to Wally World I found this gem for less than $8: The 'Old Man' voice option modulates your voice deeper, somewhat similar to Kylo Ren's in the Force Awakens. I decided this was worth messing around with. I took the toy apart: The wires are way too short to work in the helmet so I picked up some 28 guage wire from my local hobby shop, a cheap soldering iron and solder from Harbor Freight: After cutting new lengths of wire, removing the old wires, soldering on the new wires, and taking Lexan scissors to the toy to remove unnecessary plastic, I ended up with this: I then added various pieces of sticky back velcro and positioned the components around the inside of my helmet. My setup allows for me to 'store' the voice changer in the back of the helmet if I chose to go with just my voice amp setup. Back of the helmet when voice changer is in place for use: Front of the helmet when voice changer is in place for use (basically the speaker and microphone put in place) Note the microphone for my wireless voice amplifier setup is positioned in front of the speaker of the voice changer: Here's the back of my helmet when the voice changer is taken out of use. In this picture you can see that I added a pad for comfort covering the soundboard box of the voice changer : And here's the front of my helmet with just my wireless mic installed and the voice changer stuff placed in the back: And for the record here is the helmet closed with everything in place and the wireless amplifier which I stick in one of my front pouches while trooping:

I will start off by saying, YES I KNOW SCOUTS DIDN'T HAVE VOICE MODULATORS! There now that that is out of the way I decided to have a little fun with installing a cheap voice changer into my helmet. I've never really liked the sound of my voice while in costume, I don't feel like I sound intimidating enough, so I started looking into voice modulator options. Recently on a trip to Wally World I found this gem for less than $8: The 'Old Man' voice option modulates your voice deeper, somewhat similar to Kylo Ren's in the Force Awakens. I decided this was worth messing around with. I took the toy apart: The wires are way too short to work in the helmet so I picked up some 28 guage wire from my local hobby shop, a cheap soldering iron and solder from Harbor Freight: After cutting new lengths of wire, removing the old wires, soldering on the new wires, and taking Lexan scissors to the toy to remove unnecessary plastic, I ended up with this: I then added various pieces of sticky back velcro and positioned the components around the inside of my helmet. My setup allows for me to 'store' the voice changer in the back of the helmet if I chose to go with just my voice amp setup. Back of the helmet when voice changer is in place for use: Front of the helmet when voice changer is in place for use (basically the speaker and microphone put in place) Note the microphone for my wireless voice amplifier setup is positioned in front of the speaker of the voice changer: Here's the back of my helmet when the voice changer is taken out of use. In this picture you can see that I added a pad for comfort covering the soundboard box of the voice changer : And here's the front of my helmet with just my wireless mic installed and the voice changer stuff placed in the back: And for the record here is the helmet closed with everything in place and the wireless amplifier which I stick in one of my front pouches while trooping:

I've never really been fully satisfied with the way my TD turned out and ever since ShaunPug posted this thread I've been wanting to do the upgrade. I did just as Shaun's thread describes, went to the hardware store, bought two cheap 12 ft extension cords, cut off the ends, pulled them apart and carefully wrapped them around each end of a 1 3/8" clear braided vinyl hose, and glued them on. You can see the results in the background of the picture below. In the above picture I am showing off my method for adding the Lancer concave end caps to my new TD. All I needed to do was take my wife's old hair dryer, set it on hot, carefully heat the middle of each of the flat end caps and then when they were soft I pushed that green ball into them. It took a couple of iterations but I'm happy with the results. Next painting. I used some cheap acrylic paint (Ceramcoat Rain Grey) I got from JoAnn's fabric store, a paintbrush and some sealer. I decided to paint by hand instead spray paint because I was not happy with the spray paint results on my original TD. I then drilled in two holes and added the clips I got from theclip.com. Finally I glued on the newly modified end caps and am extremely pleased with the results:

No need to do that.

Also make sure you drill out the speed laces at the top of the boots.

I would take out those round laces and replace them with flat laces or just go with no laces at all.

Yep. This was changed after I painted them. When I go for Lancer I'll be changing them back to silver. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Congrats! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

I have pictures in my build thread here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=15462&view=findpost&p=145590

I sewed my pouches to my cummerbund and velcro my cummerbund to my flak to prevent any sagging.

Thank you so much for this! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk