Plasma

Next related question: As you can see in the photos my large build means there is a gap between the front and back pieces. Is this acceptable or should I make an effort to bridge this with additional printed parts or styrene sheet for example?

Im not sure if this is a legit photo from the film: But if it is, I will line them up as shown - which appears the be the bottom edge of the buckle just above the circular indent in the chest armour which means shortening by about 1.5cm.

Like this: I have more questions about this section but let's keep it on point for now. The straps - ok? I would prefer to avoid velcro in case of a problem with a strap or buckle which necessitates reprinting. I also want the straps to be flat against the armour and not visibly raised by using velcro. So, I will explore the magnet option (not used those before) and tuck the strap into the rear housing. PS. Sorry about the bad hair and stubble. Trooping is taking its toll already

Some feedback would be appreciated before I move on.....

Update. I am painting and weathering the rest of the armour. Here are the front/back of the upper torso. I went for more weathering on the back, deciding to keep the front a little "cleaner" looking. The fit of these seems pretty good on me. My question is regarding the straps: As they are shown here, the buckles are a little lower than the reference photos which show the bottom edge to be in a line with the small round black detail on the chest. I would like to have them as shown as, otherwise, I would have to shorten the straps and the slight twist needed to position the buckles would become more difficult. My intention is to glue the buckle and a short portion of the strap at that end and have the rest of the strap free floating so it can be tucked into the receptacles on the rear as I suit up. Is this placement acceptable or should I shorten the straps?

Well now. Ask an artist :) You could try using an Acrylic Flow Improver. There are several makes on the market. They increase the fluidity and flow of the paint without diluting or decreasing the opacity as much as water does. They do also increase drying time a little. Get a small bottle to try it out.

Thanks. The rest of the armour is printed and I am painting it now (photos soon). I definitely think "less is more" when it comes to weathering and rust. I am starting to understand where it may be applied on the rest of the armour. I must be getting into character already

At last - a fellow sufferer. I will have to wait until I have the boots to work it out. I bought some off eBay in the UK and someone is bringing them to me in Sicily in September to avoid the customs and excise and VAT that Brexit graciously gave me. I think I will have to deepen the section behind the heel by 1-2cm and work out some convoluted movement to get my foot in. I suppose there could be worse problems.....

Indeed. I’m mindful of it pooling and rusting in crevices while running and staining in places. Of course, using the bike would mean more weathering to the front as opposed to the rear. I am not looking to be known as “Old Rusty”…..

Phew! Thanks. I think I am inclined to use much less on the rest of the armour. Maybe a little so that the helmet doesnt look odd in that respect but certainly less. Maybe a little on the chest, back and shins. I used a four colour process to paint the rust with acrylics, channeling the artist within me.

I couldn't resist. I dont think I have gone too far and I think it looks great.

I agree. Less is more. I guess I prefer the messy look over the shiny one. I will experiment judiciously.

On another matter: I came across this photo on the Armoryshop. Although perhaps a little excessive, I like the rust effect. My question is, given that light weathering is allowed for the Patrol Trooper, would this effect, used moderately, be acceptable as weathering (which is what rust is of course), or would it be considered damage?

Thanks Justin, I think I may need an elongated lower loop but of course, I need to have the boots to make sure it all fits. So, boots!

Thanks. I think I will have to wait until I have the boots to resolve it. I need a good couple of cm for my foot to pass thru. The fit of the shin, its length and the rear calf all seem to work and look right. I may also end up reprinting the foot parts if the boots are big.

Thanks Kris.

Help! I have printed the shins for one leg and immediately see a problem. Even without boots (not yet purchased), I cannot fit my 11.5 (USA) shoe size foot into the shin without first rotating it 180 degrees, then back when on. Of course I cannot do this with the shin attached to the boot. Am I missing something? Will I have to print an elongated rear lower shin part to accommodate my feet?

So far. Helmet complete (I hope) This is not the MrPoopie one, but I may print his after completing all the other armour. The 3D printer is working overtime and the back/front chest armour is assembeled. I am now printing the ab parts, then on to the legs.

PM sent.

Thanks. Sadly, that has confused me more. The video shows a different design for the part in question and has the black painted on the returns. That I get. But mine (MrPoopie may chip in here) is different. What should I do? I also note that the inner ring on that part is white and not black as I thought it was and have painted it. No biggie, I can repaint it but which is right? Spray cans at the ready.......

I thought it was time I created a WIP and started asking stupid questions. Re: the Thermal Detonator. I am trying to work out from photos, the CRL and even the Hot Toys figure, how the right hand cap is painted. I have painted the black ring. Is it now just a matter of painting the knurled edge black or should the black extend either side of the knurled edge onto the flat surfaces a little?

I like 3D printing! I think I have researched it enough to get me up and working. I am trying to steer clear of the myriad videos on tips and tricks - "just keep it simple" he says. The helmet is a 3D print from Etsy and the rest are the excellent MrPoopie files - filler/primed so far. I bought an Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus printer and so far it's been pretty flawless.

The reply I received from the company for the filament linked below: https://www.geekbuying.com/item/Flashforge-Flexible-Filament-1kg-Grey-522607.html?Currency=EUR&source=googleads&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPrZuOvaqprzDyYpNqDGCnXWLGebBAFIgfqZJY1cZv2NojSoYLkaMhBoCUZkQAvD_BwE "Temperature resistance of around 100°C Wide range of printing temperature of 190-230°C This material is equivalent to TPU" The reply doesn't really fill me with confidence. I'm still not sure what it is but it's still worth a try.

I agree, it's confusing. I have dropped an email to the second one for clarification.

Ahh, the joys of living abroad. I found these: https://www.geekbuying.com/item/Flashforge-Flexible-Filament-1kg-Grey-522607.html?Currency=EUR&source=googleads&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPrZuOvaqprzDyYpNqDGCnXWLGebBAFIgfqZJY1cZv2NojSoYLkaMhBoCUZkQAvD_BwE and https://www.ubuy.co.it/en/product/YNBED2EO-ataraxia-art-pla-3d-printer-filament-1-75mm-with-resealable-vacuum-storage-bag-exact-searchable-pant The first (Im not sure it is Flex PLA and not TPU) is from Poland - so no extra charges for me here in Italy . The second is from the USA, so lots of loverly charges for everyone. When the time comes ie when my printer actually arrives, the first seems to be lost and they are sending a replacement, so I may even have two arrive!, I will invest in a roll.