batninja

After the glue dries (I left it overnight), it was time for the 1/2" edging strips. To accomplish this, I taped two X-Acto knives together, with the blades parallel, and pulled the vinyl through the double blades. Due to the diameter of the X-Acto knife handles, the result is a near perfect 1/2" strip! Here's a shot of the boot with the strip added. Again, monitor the strips for about an hour, as the glue might cause the strips to shift. More to follow...

I carefully removed the push pins, and used an X-Acto blade to cut along the dotted lines left by the pins. Using Shoe Goo, I slathered the boot, smoothed it with my finger, then placed the vinyl. To eliminate 'bunching' along the toe, I used masking tape to help form the edge. It is important to keep checking the vinyl over the next hour or so to make sure it's forming correctly and not shifting with the glue. Keep an eye on it, and make adjustments if necessary.

After taking a break from costuming for a few months, I'm taking another crack at the scout trooper boots. In this case, I'm doing this pair for my buddy Wesclone in Germany. Again, I started with a pair of Rugged Outback 'Cheyenne' work boots from Payless Shoe Source. The pair pictured first is actually my size 12 Ewok-stompers, but all the other pics are of Wes' size 9. After masking and marking the cut lines, I used an X-Acto knife with a thin chisel blade (#17) to cut the area. As opposed to my previous attempt, I made shallow cuts, which closer match the original boot. Then came the fun part! I had dreaded this step in the past, because I used 'natural' heat, leaving the boots on the dash of the car in the summertime, and sweating like a pig for a few minutes at a time to stretch the vinyl over the boot. THIS time, I used a heat gun, and was done in a matter of minutes. A couple of lessons I learned from past attempts: insert socks into the boot before forming the vinyl. Without them, the vinyl will actually 'collapse' the boot toe if you stretch it too tight. Using socks, the form stays rigid. Also (and this is from experience), I used elastic instead of laces. It makes it SO much easier to get suited up, and still tight enough to make the boots feel comfortable. I had Wes test-fit these before he was deployed overseas.

Thanks for the info, guys. And Jim, I still wanna see your KS!

Resulting from the recent discussions concerning the size of the new SC bucket, are there any troops in the DFW area that would be willing to let me try on theirs for sizing purposes?

Anyone? Is there a pattern posted within the forums that I might've missed?

I'm working on a tutorial, it will be up in a couple days...

Jim, that's great news! You gonna be at Fan Days this weekend?

Well, here 'tis. One square equals one inch. Contrary to this diagram, my actual pattern is 7x6x2.5", but it can be modified to any dimensions, I suppose.

I'll see if I can get the pattern online today or tomorrow. It's really not that different from the one already posted, except that it's all one piece.

The pattern I use is similar to what's posted here on the forum, but it's all one piece. I cut two, sew them together, and turn them inside-out. Lots of ironing, too. The pouches are two-ply, all the way through. I top-stitch the edges to give them a sharper look.

Here is my lazy Sunday afternoon project: The Velcro is facing forward, as I intend to attach them under the chest armor as opposed to sewing them to the cummerbund. These measure 6"x7"x2".

It's been several years since I've sewn a cummerbund, and I've misplaced my pattern. What are the dimensions of the finished crotch flap?

I found these for $39. Better sole for grooving, I think. I'm gonna hit a couple local Army-Navy stores this week, and see what's out there.

Has anyone used standard desert combat boots as a base? The advantages are that these boots are generally very inexpensive (I found these under $10 per pair), the sole is all one color, and the boot shaft is not over-padded, providing a sleeker-looking design after the vinyl is added. Also, the speed lacing is a nice touch! Down side is that the grooves along the front of the boot are extremely wide, and would make the Lancer modifications a bit odd-looking. Thoughts?

Now I've gone and done it... After making the cuts, you can see how awful the inside of the spaces look, due to the depth of the rubber of the sole. So... Using some spare plastic I had laying around, I cut small spacers to 'dress up' the ribbing, and backed each spacer with rubber cement (Shoe Goo). Result? A nicer looking sole, and it adds a little dimension to the spaces. I'm not sure if these little details will survive an actual trooping experience, and if it doesn't, no big deal. It looks good NOW. Starting the other boot now!

It's Krylon Fusion, so it seems to stick and flex pretty well. I'm sure after a few troops, I'll have to do some touch up, or sand and start over, but I'm fully prepared for that trade-off.

A couple more: I really like this shot:

Although I've made several pairs of Scout boots in the past using the tutorial, this is my first adventure with the new Lancer specs (one color sole, vertical ribs, etc.). I started with a pair of Rugged Outback 'Cheyenne' work boots from Payless Shoe Source. These are the replacements to the older State Street model I've used in the past for Scout boots. Using pliers I removed the metal 'WATERPROOF' badges from the outer sides so that they would not show against the vinyl when worn. Then I marked each cut area on the boot using an ink pen. The two-tone sole actually has its advantages, as I was able to use this line as a guide. For the lower cuts, I used a standard X-Acto wedge blade (#11), and for the upper cuts, I used a lightweight chiseling blade (#17), as it was almost the exact width of the majority of the cuts. Worked like a charm! Once I cut all the ribs, I used a candle and the flat edge of an old steak knife to 'melt' the edges in some of the cuts to make cleaner lines. You can see the burn residue on one of the ribs here. Once I was satisfied with the cutting results, I masked the sole and used Krylon Fusion Satin Khaki to make the sole a uniform color. I can also see spots where I may want to go back and correct in the future, but for now, I'm very happy with the results. What do you think? I will take better pictures in a few minutes, as I realize some of these are a little blurry. More to follow...

Funny you mention that, I actually thought about the wetsuit approach, too. I did that on a Boba Fett vest a few years back. I also thought about making the main part of the vest with a stretchy fabric, so that I could just pull it over my head like a shirt. Back to the drawing board...

I've sewn several cummerbunds for users in years past, so I've got that part covered. I can close with Velcro, then rotate the piece around my torso, so that the closure is centered on the back. However, now that the vest is a required piece for 501st/Lancer approval, has anyone found a way to make this piece so a trooper can suit up without a spotter? Having to close the vest is the current stumbling block. Don't get me wrong, I'm not anti-social, just looking for ideas, in the rare instance I have to suit up with anyone available.

I've always thought the cummerbund fabric was close to what I've seen at fabric stores as 'drapery backing'. It's fabric, but almost has a plastic feel to it, but there IS a (tight) weave, and it can be sewn easily enough. Just my 2 cents...

I think I may have to jump on the bandwagon, too. This is a sweet-looking lid!

Got mine in today, size Large! Is it typical to remove the liner? What say you?

I feel like we should be standing at LW's house, or at the front door to his shop: "Open, open, open, open...."