trooper1389

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone here, updated the tutorial, posted some pictures will update it with more pictures, but i have the paints and primers we used to pain the helmet, the same ones we will use to paint the armor. Please any constructive criticism is welcomed.

Step Three: Weathering, Scratching, Chipping and Dusting. here is a comparison picture, the one on the left is the Movie screen used helmet, the one on the right is mine, should have been used in the movie lmao. Step Four: Ready for Action. Thank you Marcelo TK-1389

Step Two: Primers and Paints Preparing helmet for weathering. · Lightly sand down all the parts that have been sitting from the cleanup and preparing process. Fresh sanding will always be better when applying primers and paints. Like noted earlier, we use PCL Polyprimer 903 applied after the helmet was prepared properly. This coat will provide you a durable surface to work with and once dry you can lightly sand to get ready for the second color coat. We are able to use these because Tim has a paint booth, these are professional primers and you will need a lot of ventilation if you are going to use them. · If you don’t have access to ventilation or a booth, use regular Rustoleum gray or in this case dark gray primer (it’s almost like a black primer finish) apply several light coats this way you get an even coverage without build up, you don’t need to sand between coats as I wait about 10 minutes between coats, don’t worry about tiger stripes, as the rest of the coats will allow you to get a nice and even coverage throughout the helmet and parts. · Second coat (Yellow / Tan base color, we use Pcl Polyprimer 905 buff this is a tan yellowish coat that came out perfectly as the base yellow / tan needed for the helmet · Again if you don’t have access to these paints, use the Rustolium paints (I don’t know the names of these paints) once I have them I will update it here. And you apply this coat in the same way as the primer make sure you get nice and even coverage. I would apply a second coat after its complete dry after several hours or best the following day, make sure you lightly sand it so the second coat adheres to the first coat. · For the next steps it should be the same regardless of what steps to paint the base helmet you used. · FIRST WASH Createx Opaque yellow diluted in water about 90% warm water to 10% yellow (dabbed with dry towel so you don’t’ get any runs), repeat even dabbing coverage until you feel you have reached the color shade you feel happy or content with. Once it’s dry apply a coat of Rustoleum Matte Clear to seal the first wash. · SECOND WASH use the Createx mixture ( Ill have to check what we mixed and post it up here at a later time lol…) 90% warm water to 10% paint also with dry towel to prevent paint from running and apply several layers until you reach the tone you are happy or desired. And once dry apply Rustoleum Matte Clear. FYI it does take several hours to get the proper tones and time allowed to let them dry between coats and clears. TAKE YOUR TIME! · And last apply a last coat of the Matte Clear to encapsulate all your work before weathering.

Now to get started always begin with a good attitude, positive thinking and patience. And then patience I cannot say that patience will allow you to make this and any kit the best it can be. For these steps I will have pictures posted with some extra detail information. Until then, you have a general idea to get started with what I have posted. Day one When you get the package at home, first off open it, I know the feeling lol. Once you are done drooling over the helmet or entire armor for that matter put it down. Step One: Clean up and prepping the helmet and parts for primer. · Sand it and wash it with soap and cold water, this will remove all the chemical residue and oils sprayed on the mold to release the helmet. · Inspect the helmet and all the pieces it comes with. You will find some minor imperfections from the pulls, take a pencil and mark all over the helmet the areas you see that need special attention to if you don't find anything wrong, look it over again, on the large parts helmet, rub your finger and feel for bumps, dents and lines and mark them to make sure you pay special attention, may need filler or may need extra sanding etc… · Mark down the areas around the eyes, neck and parts that you have to trim off and or vents that you want to open up. · Now make all your rough cuts and then fine tune them with the sanding drums ½ or ¼ inch drums depending on the areas you need. · Now fill in all the spots that need filler let dry completely and sand down to a smooth finish. Repeat until the helmet is perfect. · Now get all the greemelies and make sure you sand and fill all the parts, here the small files will allow you to make sure any detail missing on the small parts are placed by using filler and some extra TLC. Some parts are small that the silicone is not enough to capture all the detail and it’s up to you to make sure you have it, unless you don’t’ want it lol. · Now that all the parts small and large are completed and ready, before any primer or paint is applied, WASH it again, and let it dry again completely. · Make sure its completely dry before applying any primers. I usually let the helmet sit for a couple of days after washing it in my case ill do this first step one weekend and put it aside until the next weekend, have work between weekends lol.

Hello everyone my name is Tk1389 AKA Marcelo lol. I have always like to share my little bit of knowledge in order to help others in building their helmets. In this tutorial with the help of Tim L. who actually did us the favor of providing us with the pictures from start to finish and shared his expertise in painting and weathering, I’m able to provide you with visual and written instructions for the Scrif AKA Shore stormtrooper character from Rogue One. Like in the past, this is just our opinion on how we have worked on resin helmet kits, please don’t hesitate to provide us with input as I will update the tutorial with information from anyone here that makes suggestions on how to help others in need of assistance. To start YES I committed some major plagiarism on myself from a tutorial I did for CT.net back in 2005 lol. And yes I updated it with this Scarif / Shore helmet kit. These helmet kits, along with all other kits for this Scarif Trooper are being made of some king of resin. My kits are made from a product called TC 808 from BJB enterprises it’s a two part polyurethane resin that takes paints very well. Regardless the type of resin, fiberglass etc… being used the steps should remain the same for all types of kits. And this is one of the most important parts I’m sure you all know but I do have to say it here. Take your time don’t rush mark your cuts, mark any imperfections that may need some extra TLC (molding lines, bumps and dents if any, go over the entire helmet and greebelies to make sure you have all pieces on hand and nothing is missing. Make sure you know what parts need special attention, it’s like a miniature model take one piece at a time and give it all your attention until you made it to the last piece. Tools needed. Tools needed. Standard tools for building a model if you don't have the list, here is what I use. 1. DREMEL or something like it . (https://www.dremel.c...ry/27343/rotary ), anyone of these will work but try and get one with multiple speeds as it will make your armor building easier. 2. Get Dremel 225-01 Flex Shaft Attachment (https://www.dremel.c...haft-attachment ) If the link does not work just Google the name. This is the one I use. I feel this is one of the most important attachments you will need. (at least in my book lol GARAGE). This tool will allow you to cut, sand, trim and prepare your helmet for the hands on portion of the tutorial. 3. Bits and other attachments for cutting, sanding and grinding that you may need to prepare your kit. Cuts, I use several cutting attachments, for major large cuts, I sue the #561 multi purpose cutting bit found here (https://www.dremel.c...?blogsearch=561 with some videos of how it works. This will cut fast and accurate, just take your time as it will pull and or take off on you I suggest to test it out first on scrap pieces of ABS or drywall. You can also use cutting wheels like (https://www.dremel.c...=cutting+blades ) your preference, but I normally use the cutting bit, have gotten attached to this, it’s made my work easier lol. FYI cut about 1/8 inch away from your marked line, the marked line is where you have to end up and this tool is NOT the one to make sure you have your finished cut see step B for this. For sanding the areas after cutting, I use the #430 ¼ inch sanding drum (https://www.dremel.c...-4-sanding-drum ) I use this one for small areas for sanding like around the eyes and tight corners. And the #407 ½ inch sanding drum (https://www.dremel.c...-2-sanding-drum ), depending on the area, size and room allowed, but this is the one I use to sand / grind down larger openings to get a nice finish on the larger areas like the neck opening etc…. This will give you a fine and smooth finish to help you get your helmet prepared for the next step. FYI DREMEL has numerous types of cutters and engraving bits, but the ones I mentioned are the ones I use. This is the tools that I use to get up close and personal to the marked lines. This drum is easy to control so make sure you take your time at lower speeds to ensure a nice and clean finished cut. 4. For the manual hand tools I use for the helmets. Hand Files, (http://www.homedepot...ts/N-5yc1vZc91p ) Small with the different shapes to get the angles and grooves in the eye, nose, visor, teeth and vent areas or openings you may want to saw/dremel/file through for ventilation and for a clean look. Xacto knife(s) (http://xacto.com/pro...olutions/knives ) and saw blades (http://xacto.com/pro...des/detail/X215 ), the , X-ACTO No. 15 key hole saw. is a great one to always have on hand. Sand paper 60 or 80, 120, 220, and for the finish 4000 grit, remember the higher the grit, the smoother the sanded surface. Steel wool (0000) I like this some people may not, Wet or Dry sand paper for (wet sanding) this is for the finish and finishing touches like weathering and scratching. Primers and Paints for this helmet we used the following in this order. i. PCL Polyprimer 903 applied after the helmet was prepared properly. ii. Pcl Polyprimer 905 buff this is a tan yellowish coat that came out perfectly as the base yellow / tan needed for the helmet iii. FIRST WASH Createx Opaque yellow diluted in water about 90% warm water to 10% yellow (dabbed with dry towel so you don’t’ get any runs). iv. SECOND WASH the Createx mixture ( abc def ghi…) 90% warm water to 10% paint also with dry towel to prevent paint from running v. After each wash once dry apply Rustoleum Matte Clear between every wash. (it does take several hours to get the proper tones. vi. And apply a last coat of the Matte Clear to encapsulate all your work before weathering. Bondo or some type of filler (http://www.autobodyt...CFdKGfgodLJsD6A ) ca glue, I like this one (https://www.woodturn...Instant-CA-Glue ) with the accelerator (https://www.woodturn...NCF-Accelerator ). epoxies (http://www.homedepot...65736/202552251

We picked up a couple of the small E-11 from Lewis at HFX The one with the light, larger magazine and smaller fins for the light. Here is the link if your interested. He's on FB.

Sorry for no updates, did work on the helmet this weekend but have had no time to post up the pictures. I see that the vews here have increases, please leave some feed back with ideas or input regarding this build. I think it will benefit every one here in the long run. Thanks again Marcelo tks1389

No problem, I figured vacuum formed will be easier to work with and lighter. but if there is an interest on fiver glass, we can do that as well. Thanks.

We are re molding all the parts and making some of the missing parts. We will have access to make them out of abs.

For now I'm working on a tutorial how to work on this bucket. Once the armor is further in progress I will post up a WIP on the armor section.

Yes thank you

OK to make it more interesting, I went ahead with the flip visor way. Here are some pictures, will post up what I did and how I did it with all the hardware needed to make sure the helmet flip up and down and stays put once on. I lost the pictures that I took where I drew up where I was going to cut, but this will have to do. Make sure you have the visor on and trace an outline on the face where the visor will go so you have an Idea where to be careful in the cuts and where you can chop off and remove parts of the helmet. I ended up removing about 1 inch of material on the face as the visor will be attached to the face and blocking out any gaps.

ok I see this is a must so my question is, is it center left right and front and back on the visor part? or is it a specific dimension from the front of the visor? Please help?

Wow them threads even pop up here lol... Im working on one Kashyyyk helmet, might try the face off flip visor on the next one just to see if it's possible lol.

Thanks for the great info on the paints Printed out the picture you have here, and will go and try and get the paints matched and get cracking this weekend on it have some ideas on how to get the paint on it. Will post up pics and how I did it hope this will help out in the future.

Should have gone to the CRL in the first place lol to find this... ok going with it lol...

OK I need some help the paint scheme and or colors... Gree is the Kashyyyk trooper Commander right. ans here are some pictures of grees armor parts with the paint colors. Is the camo colors the same? Is the pattern te same? Please help me out here...Im looking all over to get the right collors for paint Thanks in advance

3. once you have the needed equipment, begin your journey... go ahead and cut them out. First off make sure you only cut close to the marked lines, NOT on the line as some of you know a rotary tool will zip in almost any direction so be careful and get as close as you can. and try it on 4. Once you have the parts cut out with the ZIP blade, with the 1/2 inch sanding drum begin to sand even closer. once that is done, using files you can clean up the areas as neat as possible or till your heart is content on the finished job. PICTURES TO FOLLOW!!! 5. If bondo or a filler was needed, make sure the entire helmet is sanded down do so and take your time. Once you have the bondo sanded down primer the kit . Repeat this step if you need to or until the helmet is 100% smooth. 6.. Re do step 4 and 5 once again to make sure the kit is 110% smooth now you should be happy and give it the final primer coat. ***** now the paint job on this helmet is hard I think but with in time I'll post up the rest of the WIP as I work on it.

Tools needed to assemble and complete my helmet. Any kind of small hand held rotary tool (DREMEL is the one I use, here is the link for the site. http://www.dremel.co...l.aspx?pid=4000 4000 High Performance Rotary Tool make sure you get one that has various speed, and the best attachment is the #225 flex shaft http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=225-01 . This tool will give you the ability to cut at various angles and tight areas. Also You will need cutting tools. For your major large cuts, I sue the #561 multi purpose cutting bit http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=561 . This will cut fast and accurate, just take your time as it will pull on you test it out first on scrap pieces of ABS or drywall. For sanding the areas after cutting, I use the #430 ¼ inch sanding drum http://www.etoolsrus.com/browse.cfm/4,4676.html and the #407 ½ inch sanding drum http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=407 , depending on the area and size. This will give you a fine and smooth finish. DREMEL has numerous types of cutters and engraving bits, but the ones I mentioned are the most essential to use. Now to cut in tight areas, I use the X-ACTO No. 15 key hole saw. This is the same saw I use to cut out the face plate on the phase 1 and 2 helmet kits. http://www.xacto.com/Product/X215 You will need more than one trust me a few will be best, and take your time they bend easily. You will also need Sand paper various grits from rough to the finest you like to use. Pencil (for marking areas) CA glue (Flex-ZAP) Here are some hints how and where to use it http://www.zapglue.com/Hints/Flex.html and the glue http://www.shopwiki.com/Flex-Zap-Glue,1oz Also you can use the Kicker http://www.hobby-lobby.com/zap_kicker_2_oz._spray_2881_prd1.htm to harden the glue in seconds. This glue is also great for the armor. Hand tools needed... Files, small to large. Primer and paints. Dust mask for health reasons Bondo or any kind of filler

OK... I got the kit from Tim and Susie (BikerChick here on the boards) and I'm going to post up a Tutorial on how to work on this kit. First off the kit is made with a roto casting machine, that will greatly improve the quality of the bucket by spreading the casting resin evenly through out the mold and making it lighter and smooth inside. This WIP or how to work on the KASHYYYK helmet kit I hope will help out some of the old timers here and the new "B's" lol This is more of a set of instructions if any one here buys one of the kits. Feel free to PM me or http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showuser=20517 biker chick for more information regarding one of the kits. Here is a picture of what the kit consist of. The kit should include the following... 1 helmet 1 visor 1 piece of lens 2 metal caps 2 sm pieces of screen or one large piece. 1 set of stickers 5 resin greebs 2 small risers FYI ( to rise the caps) 2 larger caps FYI..(go on top of the risers) 1 chin cover. STEP ONE First of like all other helmet made out of resin, once removed from package, inspect to ensure the kit does not have any shipping damage. Then go ahead and wash it with cold water and soap. let it dry completely. The purpose for this is to clean off any release agents sprayed on the mold for casting and by letting it sit for a week after is to ensure all gasses from the resin are gone. Resins are 2 part chemicals and do continue to smell (de gassing) for days after a helmet is made. So I let it sit till completely dry for a week or so, and I do let it sit in the sun for a few hours at a time to help it from de gassing. DON'T let it sit in the sun for an entire day as it WILL warp use common sense lol... Once dry, then you are ready to get dirty and begin your journey. STEP TWO 1. Inspect the bucket for any blemishes bumps that need sanding and dents or craters that MIGHT need a bondo filler. NOT saying the kit has bumps or craters as each bucket made is made with care, but from time to time depending on the climate, resins will do what they do with to much moisture or heat... So don't let this full you as the bumps and or craters might be 1/16 of an inch from air pockets for the craters, bumps from wear on the silicone molds. as you inspect, do so taking your time and with a pencil mark down all areas that need special attention. For this particular bucket, I had no areas that needed special attention to as it's the 3rd pull from the mold. 2. Sand down the entire bucket with good quality sand paper as you don't want the paper to fall apart on you. After you are done sanding, blow it clean and run your fingers all over the helmet to make sure you are free of any problem areas or if you find any problem areas, mark them with a pencil and re do step this step. At the same time, make pencil marks on the areas you know need to be cut out like the Visor / Lense mark down where you will be cutting off. Side vents... and make sure you clean the neck area good.

This is going faster that I thought. Can't wait to see the helmet master. ps: Thank you gents for all the help you have given me and making me part of the team.

That is not the case, the makers want to keep their hard work from being re-casted, but it can't be done. But what can be done is find out one by one who the re caster(s) is or are, and let everyone know. If the people in a particular area, lets say Arizona USA wont help in ousting a re-caster, then that person in that state or country will ruin it for the rest of the people in that area as they support them. With that in mind, it's not the original makers fault you will not get things sent there and have to rely on a re cast part, it the individuals that support them who are at fault of not being sold any originals. call it retaliation is it wrong no I choose to sell to whom I want to. And others choose to support who them want to...

I don't see any problem with that as long as you keep it for you and you only. Now how much does this make sence??? Are you going to spend 2 or 3 hundred dollars just casting a part to replace that you could have paid a couple of dollars for it??? Or cast a rubies helmet after making mods and putting countless hours and spending a few more hundred dollars more, that do it, I think it's a waste of your time and money to do something like this. That's why there are guys like SGB, Evo, PGHFETT etc... that make quality products at a reasonable price for UNCLE George to call on us to show up at events to make him look good because the things he has does not compare to what we make. But if you can afford a 600+ helmet, then you are the man.

Look If you made them, then post pictures of your WIP. This way skygunbro, steelblitz. nzjedi, and evo3 can apologize for considering you a re-caster. It's not the point of pride here, just proof. Now if you can't show any, that you can add me to the list as I will back them up.. We can't wait to see your WIP so I can personally start to apologize Thanks for understanding the situation here by helping us understand and see the truth that you and your team made the armor from scratch. TK1389 Marcelo! Now on a happy note, not to upset any one here so I will ask a question to a joke I heard long ago... How do you say virgin in German? I'll PM the answer of what I was told for anyone that would like to hear it....