BlackDOG

On occasion, folks who were or are members or who were planning on being members will sell their armor on ebay...... BUT generally, they try to sell it here or on the 501st board, first. Ebay is a sketchy proposition in general for armor and the like. I have had decent luck with commercially made products like hiking gear. But for costuming stuff, I would steer clear. Usually, the cost will be higher and many times the quality will be lower. Follow the advice given above...... I can't speak about that seller specifically.,,,I don't have any experience, but you will have better luck on this board.

Take a look at the pics.....once you do that, cut a pattern out of something expendable like cheap cloth or file folders or your ex girlfriend's prom dress. Compare your pattern to the pic and adjust the size so it looks like the picture but to your size. Then use your pattern to make your flap. As for the bund...... Put on your chest armor and belt.measure the distance between them. Figure in that the bund should extend underneath both so the armor and belt cover and secure the edges. That measurement is your finished dimension. Add to that the seam allowances, and you got your cutting size. As for girth, put on your suit and your vest. Use a seamstress tape to measure around your chest and waist. This measurement plus an overlap in the back for some sort of closure (i used sew in industrial velcro about an 1.5" wide) and you have your finished dimension. add seam allowances (the extra fabric that secures the seam...I used a half inch all the way around...many patterns call for 5/8ths)..you have your cut size. Be sure to add batting to the inside of your bund so it does not look frumpy and the ribs stand out nice. Pouches work out the same way....proportional to your body. Hope all that helps. Looseton's pattern was the one I used (Thanks, Bro.) I hope that makes some sense. J.

I looked at both racing suits and the flight suits that have been discussed at enormous length here. You could read for a week on the benefits and draw backs to both. Some of the flightsuits have lots of doo dads that will have to be removed to get a screen accurate look....zipers, pulls, pockets. Flight suits, generally have lots of pocket for places for stuff to be readily accessible. Racing suits generally don't have pockets all over the place. This is a big first step to accuracy. Flight suits tend to be a little more baggy.....at least the ones I have seen. My racing suit is a tad bit long in the torso for me...but that is just my shape. I think accuracy goes to flight suits. Cost is always an issue, and I think cost probably goes in favor of a flight suit......I have seen them for cheaper than racing suits....generally speaking. As far as heat retention.... many cockpits and drivers seats are a hot environment. Both suits will be HOT in the summer. I just finished a C5 stand in my racing suit. I suspect this is a dead heat ( pun intended) with respect to how hot they are. The primary considerations are FIT and LOOK. IF it fits and it looks right....then it should work. Personally, the proban racing suit is my choice. Mine from Wesco Performance, fits me, it only had two pockets that came off SUPER EASY, has the stand up collar with closure that gives it that good look. I don't think you gain a lot from the flightsuit, although, many use these and they look fine. It depends on budget and goals. I said it somewhere in this thread: just thought I would share this....... I recieved my racing suit from wesco this week. AFter reading through this post, I decided to try the 79.00 dollar version. As I understood the email I recieved from Wesco, they could give me an all black suit for about 139.00 (Custom style #9) however, the standard (proban 1 piece jumpsuit- Item 1004) suit is the SAME THING except with white cuffs and stripes. It is 79.00 versus 139.00. SO I ordered the 79.00 dollar suit (http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/probdrivsuit1.html). It came in the mail really quickly. Here is the shake down. The suit was well made.... The stripes came off easily. They are sewn on ribbon. After a wash, you could not see the stitch holes. I am on the large/medium fence according to their sizing diagrams. I went with the large. This is th only issue I have, as that I was hoping to avoid baggyness. I dont think ths will be too much of an issue. SAve yourself the extra cash and go with the 79.00 suit and take the stripes off. HTH, BD I hope that helps you....I don't see the advantage of a custom, the cost would probably be too high. J.

The vest with its ribbed sleeves should be black fabric. My sleeves have more of a sheen to them ( a slight sheen, not satiny), because that seemed to look good and match the reference photos. To get the ribs, you sew batting (like goes on the inside of a quilt, only not that thick of a layer) between two layers of sleeve fabric. The ribs are simply straight rows of stitches to give the ribbed effect....very similar to the ribs on the 'bund (batting makes them pretty ) Once the sleeves are ribbed, they can be sewn to the rest of the vest. There are folks around who are much better than I with the fabric and thread, but that is how I did it. J.

My only concern with rivets in that area is that they would be visible. The cloth cover only covers about 1/2 inch or less on each side. The snap, attached to a plastic backing strip, glued to the underside of the armor method has served me well.

PM Blue Cyclone, our armorer.......he will be able to give you insight in what you need. The troopers around here are friendly and have a wealth of info. Take time to read thru the FAQs and browse the forums........I spent several months trying to take all the info in before I settled on actually doing the armor. In the end, it paid off when I started assembling the armor. With Scouts, there are almost as much soft stuff as armor......that is a whole other set of threads. Glad to have you around. J.

Thanks a ton for the guidance and help everybody! I have said it before...the folks on this forum are super helpful and want to see our costumes be the best they can be. J.

Boots v.2-Special Lance Mod

Thanks for the direction, Dave. I used a machine to stitch them and I did iron them, but the curve was a challenge to get the taper right......I will make the modifications when I get back from Florida. I am here now and will be till C5...... J

On the way, later this afternoon.

To make way for the new Lancer standards, I took these new pics.... Boots with grooves......only cut myself twice during the process..... I realized there was no topper picture......... Triggerless blaster. Muzzle. Here is my vest and sleeve. And the dual pouches.....I have a set of bright white and a set of natural...they are interchangeable...and I wil use whichever is most appropriate. On my left, the right side of this picture, is the natural.....on my right, your left, is the bright white. Suede and thigh straps.

That is how I read it Dave, but thanks for the clarification.......

Way to go Dave!

No problem......take your time. * Waits 7.653 seconds WHAT IS TAKING SO LONG?!? I will wait to post the rest of the pics till things get sorted out. Many thanks, guys!

Hello All. I am asking to be granted Lancer Status. Fishhook, collar & neck, under vest and balaclava Gloves, suede fingers Bucket T Bits and vest Mud flap, suede patch, detonator & greebs Side Side Front Other Side Back (not my best side ) T Bits, pouches and tank I'll post closeups of the boots, holster and suede patch with straps when I get home later tonight. Many thanks for consideration. J.