Dart

I'd be careful. I actually bought a Jet Trooper file set from them and they were kinda low quality and not really made for full size 3d printing. By that, I mean the entire jetpack was 1 piece. There's no way to print that unless you cut it apart and remodel some parts, and that would take a while to do and get a good result. If I was printing a file for a 1:6 figure, they'd be great, but not so much for 1:1. It's not super expensive, but I worry that the back plate is all just 1 piece, which makes the detailing for 501st clearance tricky.

If you can find something that's more for plastic, that would be better. JB Weld does make a plastic bonder, and you can get it at Crappy Tire. I'd probably pick that as it's actually made for plastic.

Another thing about the EFX bucket (other than I *still* haven't received mine, smh...) is that it seems small. And definitely not easy to put on due to the rigidity of the helmet. If you already have one (lucky you), and it fits, go for it. Otherwise, there's many other helmets out there that are better.

In the past, I've lined the inside of my holster with some white craft foam. It lets me wedge my blaster into the holster. Not so easy to remove, definitely a task for the ankle-biters.

If someone is using CA glue, better to use the gel glue as it isn't as brittle.

You're best off with something that bonds the plastic directly, like a plastic weld and not E6000 or CA glue. I'd do a test before you use the ABS cement. I can't remember if it gets warm when used... possibly affecting the RS chest negatively. Do a test and go from there. Make sure that whatever piece you use, you make the reinforcement a single piece that gets bent over the back of the crease. Stronger that way. And you don't need a huge piece, maybe about 1" is enough near the bottom of it, just above where it dips in.

Looks good! Looks Scouty!

I'd also suggest a bit of velcro if you're so inclined. Helps those arm bits from moving around too much and it allows for bands that are not so tight.

You can put a bit of padding, but you'd never want too much because it just gets a bit warm. But for fitting purposes, you can do it.

Congratulations!

Nice looking Scout! Good job!

Congratulations!

Congrats Sarah! Thanks for stepping into this important role! Thanks very much for your work, Jenn! It's appreciated and you'll be missed!

The Fila's look good. The sole has that extra edge on them, but I honestly don't see that as being a huge issue...

I seem to recall a thread here, a looooong time ago, where someone actually contacted Hi Tec (the manufacturer of the boots) and asked some questions about making more of them. IIRC, they had no desire to start making them again and I don't even think they had much production material for them (designs, moulds, etc...) but I don't think they were interested in the legalities of a boot they stopped making 40-ish years ago. Crowprops makes the best replica sole for this that's currently available but the boot is not the right shape (more like modern "hiking style" boots than those with the softer toe vamp (front part of the boot over the toes). So yeah, Crowprops can afford to make these because that's what they do. Any other manufacturer that would consider making these again would need to know there's a market for them and, sadly, it's kinda limited to us scouts and maybe the small number of Rebel Endor Troopers who'd be interested.

They can be stickers, or waterslide decals. I believe Trooperbay still makes the stickers. If you really want to paint them, you can but it doesn't make them "more accurate". I believe the originals used waterslide decals. Building the helmet can be tough, go easy on yourself.

Welcome aboard, Kevin!

Yeah, I haven't seen many around here that have single-coloured soles. Kind of annoying... Crowprops is a reliable seller, so that's an option, as mentioned above.

Good luck! Looking forward to having another Mountain Trooper!

Yeah, that's about right. As Corey said, it's better than a TK but there are still some limitations.

So, here's the thing... they'll pretty much always break at some point. The best way to mitigate this is by drilling the holes a bit farther in (about 10mm/ about 3/8") in from the edge. You could go a bit farther in (15mm/ about 5/8") but not more than that. And do like the above by putting on some backing on the inside of the boot as well to help take the strain. Also, be mindful of how you pack your boots afterwards. Make sure there's nothing that's going to knock into them or possibly press down on the holster. And when you're trooping, try not to whack it on something as you're walking by. I've had to replace my holster 2 times and now with my new kit, I'll be on #3. It happens.

Having the potentially smelly bits facing out will help air things out more.

I had some boots years ago, now I wished I'd taken more detailed photos -

I always have had just a single length of webbing for the chest/back strap. Makes it so much easier than trying to sew it onto the back plate and it's actually what they did on screen, too. I'll also add, if you're going to be swapping between a clean/dirty look, make sure you also swap out the webbing on the belt and have white/natural pouches as well as joint covers on the tops of the shoulder straps.

Welcome to the Pathfinders, Alex! Hope you have fun with your build! Let us know if you have any questions or need help.