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Dart

Executive Office
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Dart last won the day on February 20

Dart had the most liked content!

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About Dart

  • Birthday 03/17/1978

Retained

  • Member Title
    XO

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.501st.ca

Profile Information

  • Trooping Award Badge
    50+
  • Supporter Badge
    2024
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Great White North

501st Information

  • Name
    Andry
  • 501st Designation
    3878
  • 501st Garrison
    Canadian Garrison
  • 501st Profile Page
    http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=12309&costumeID=6
  • Approved Pathfinder Kits
    Scout Trooper: ROTJ

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  1. I'd be careful. I actually bought a Jet Trooper file set from them and they were kinda low quality and not really made for full size 3d printing. By that, I mean the entire jetpack was 1 piece. There's no way to print that unless you cut it apart and remodel some parts, and that would take a while to do and get a good result. If I was printing a file for a 1:6 figure, they'd be great, but not so much for 1:1. It's not super expensive, but I worry that the back plate is all just 1 piece, which makes the detailing for 501st clearance tricky.
  2. If you can find something that's more for plastic, that would be better. JB Weld does make a plastic bonder, and you can get it at Crappy Tire. I'd probably pick that as it's actually made for plastic.
  3. Another thing about the EFX bucket (other than I *still* haven't received mine, smh...) is that it seems small. And definitely not easy to put on due to the rigidity of the helmet. If you already have one (lucky you), and it fits, go for it. Otherwise, there's many other helmets out there that are better.
  4. In the past, I've lined the inside of my holster with some white craft foam. It lets me wedge my blaster into the holster. Not so easy to remove, definitely a task for the ankle-biters.
  5. If someone is using CA glue, better to use the gel glue as it isn't as brittle.
  6. You're best off with something that bonds the plastic directly, like a plastic weld and not E6000 or CA glue. I'd do a test before you use the ABS cement. I can't remember if it gets warm when used... possibly affecting the RS chest negatively. Do a test and go from there. Make sure that whatever piece you use, you make the reinforcement a single piece that gets bent over the back of the crease. Stronger that way. And you don't need a huge piece, maybe about 1" is enough near the bottom of it, just above where it dips in.
  7. Looks good! Looks Scouty!
  8. I'd also suggest a bit of velcro if you're so inclined. Helps those arm bits from moving around too much and it allows for bands that are not so tight.
  9. You can put a bit of padding, but you'd never want too much because it just gets a bit warm. But for fitting purposes, you can do it.
  10. Congratulations!
  11. Nice looking Scout! Good job!
  12. Congrats Sarah! Thanks for stepping into this important role! Thanks very much for your work, Jenn! It's appreciated and you'll be missed!
  13. The Fila's look good. The sole has that extra edge on them, but I honestly don't see that as being a huge issue...
  14. I seem to recall a thread here, a looooong time ago, where someone actually contacted Hi Tec (the manufacturer of the boots) and asked some questions about making more of them. IIRC, they had no desire to start making them again and I don't even think they had much production material for them (designs, moulds, etc...) but I don't think they were interested in the legalities of a boot they stopped making 40-ish years ago. Crowprops makes the best replica sole for this that's currently available but the boot is not the right shape (more like modern "hiking style" boots than those with the softer toe vamp (front part of the boot over the toes). So yeah, Crowprops can afford to make these because that's what they do. Any other manufacturer that would consider making these again would need to know there's a market for them and, sadly, it's kinda limited to us scouts and maybe the small number of Rebel Endor Troopers who'd be interested.
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