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Pandatrooper's SC Biker Scout build


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I did pretty much the same thing to my shoulder bells...looks a lot better.

I've been meaning to do that with my forearms for a while too. Great tutorial pics! (pics motivate me I guess lol)

Never noticed that in the bicep greeblie. Shouldn't be too hard to mod I supose. :)

Awesome eyes for detail!

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Can't tell you how much I appreciate this thread and your tips. I'm so completely new to all of this. Working on my bells now and going to attempt this trimming business. Again, being brand new....

 

What tool do you suggest for the true trimming? I've just been using various grades of sandpaper for finishing and haven't yet needed to "trim". I'll purchase whatever tool/tools you recommended for this.

 

Thanks again.

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Thanks all! Getting close to completion. :)

 

Dan, I pretty much use lexan scissors most of the time. They can be found at hobby shops and are curved so that you can trim the tight cuts on RC car bodies. They look really small but thats because the handles of the scissors are bigger than the blades to maximize leverage. I have built many sets of armor and many more helmets using the same pair of scissors over 5 years. :)

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Awesome! Admire your work and keen to get the next tutorial. Agree with the colleagues: you motivate to improve further. Still looking forward to get my MC stuff (10 months waiting now), but got so much good hints from you so far that I am happy to wait until you have finished.

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Thanks Rene. I am almost done, just finishing the boots as I was waiting for supplies, as well as the suede for my undersuit. I will be posting a few modifications to my soft armor that I sewed, and a special mod for the cummerbund coming shortly. :)

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Cod and cummerbund update! :)

 

I wanted to make sure that my cod didn't bunch up and result in "camel toe" syndrome, something that happens when the cod is sewn with the same batting as the cummerbund.

 

I studied this photo very carefully, along with other close up photos of the cod. The top portion seems somewhat flexible, and the bottom always stays curved. The sewn arc stitches still have a "pillowy" look to them. Even when the Scouts sit on the speeder bikes, the top portion bends, but the bottom half holds it's shape. I was convinced that there was a curved form inside the bottom of the cod, almost like a cup in a jock strap.

 

washko_058_mvc-336f.jpg

 

I tested sewing the cod using 1/4" closed cell foam, but the arc stitches on closed cell foam were too hard and didn't puff up right. I did a few more tests, and this is the result - no camel toe cod!

 

First up, I measured out a cod piece that suited my dimensions. I know some state to make the cod 10" across at the top, but I tried a cardboard one and it was too wide (I have a 30" waist) so I reduced it to just under 9". Looking at reference pics, The "crotch" of the cod is actually quite narrow, and since the elastic is only 2" wide, I made the crotch 2.5" wide.

 

I cut 2 pieces of material based on my cardboard pattern, one from 1/4" thick OPEN cell foam (the soft spongey kind) and 1/8" craft foam or "Fun Foam".

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I then cut and sewed my cod with 2 layers of the same material as the cummerbund. The trick to making "no invisible seam" on the edge of the cod (per Lancer spec) was to make the outer piece about 3/4" wider, and the inner piece 3/4" narrower. This will put the seam on the underside of the cod where no one will see it. :)

This photo is the underside of the cod.

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Using a template, I drew the arc stitched "clam shell" shape onto a separate piece of scrap foam. This template will be used to create the clam shell shape of the plastic insert. The top of the arc lines are at about the halfway mark along the length of the cod. I cut the bottom 1/2" of this template to leave room to sew the 2" crotch elastic.

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I transferred the clam shell shape onto a piece of 1/8" thick styrene. I then heated the styrene with a heat gun and curved it over a section of 4" diameter pipe. I purposely bent the lower half and kept the top half less curved, transitioning to a flat top. This plastic insert will prevent the camel toe effect of the cod.

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This is how all the materials will be sandwiched inside the cod material. 1/8" Fun Foam on the bottom (adds rigidity), plastic "clam shell" insert, and then the 1/4" open cell foam on top.

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I used hot glue to glue the plastic insert to the Fun Foam. Make sure to leave 1/2" exposed foam at the bottom for the elastic to be sewn on.

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I then used spray adhesive on both the bottom of the open cell and the top of the fun foam and clam shell insert, let it tack up, and pressed them together.

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Insert the entire cod stuffing into the cod material. Make sure you have the cod material right side up (wider piece of fabric is the outer cod, narrower piece is the inner). Also make sure the inner seam allowance from sewing the cod material is under the entire cod stuffing, otherwise you might see the raised edges under the outer fabric. Iron the cod material seams inside out if you need to.

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Pull the cod stuffing all the way down into the outer cod material. Make sure it's as far as it can go, so that the edges look puffy. Work the material so that you can't see the seams.

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Sew the 2" crotch elastic down, make sure the fold the end over first.

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Using the clamshell template I made earlier, I transferred the shape to the back of the cod and traced the arc line in pencil on the fabric. Draw a second line about 1/2" above the clam shell (I used a dinner plate to get a slightly larger radius). Pull the fabric tight, and sew the arc lines. If you want to be anal, don't sew the arc lines over the edges of the cod.

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The clam shell plastic insert now keeps the cod in a perfectly curved shape, preventing any camel toe from happening.

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I sewed the top shut by overlapping the fabric, and a seam about 2" below the top to keep the foam tight and flat. This won't be seen as it's covered by the belt armor. I then attached the cod to the bund.

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Finished cod / bund on my mannequin. I know there's no under suit shown here but I did a test fitting with the under suit and there's no camel toe, even when sitting. :)

7971318112_c9e18b0e90_z.jpg

 

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Love the thought that went into this. I had something of the same idea but not the use of the craft foam or the plastic. I may squeeze it down to the 2" cause of the preferred confert but like how you started the cardboard will dictate. Thanks panda your awsome and I wish you lived in VS. ;)

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Great Idea. I fear its not very comfortable closing your legs. Did you try to walk with it ?

 

I can walk fine, doesn't dig in at all. The key is to not have the cod extend way down to your butt - if you know what I mean.

 

It probably looks a little weird on the mannequin since the legs on my duct tape model are spread apart in a more stable pose, rather than legs together. But I've worn it just fine, and I can sit on my scooter just fine (yes, I tested the riding position!) :)

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The key is to not have the cod extend way down to your butt - if you know what I mean.

 

 

I understand. I think the elastic starts right between the legs.

So it works and i think i will use the idea with my codpiece.

I will try a piece of thick rubber instead the styrene piece.

It is more flexible and can also be hard enough to keep the shape.

And it is easier for me to cut the shape out of a block then heat and form plastics.

;)

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Good idea. I think anything that is not too thick and will hold it's shape will work just fine. I guess I am used to my TK and TD cod all these years, that any kind of shaped cod doesn't bother me. :)

 

Shdwtrpr13, I will post some action shots when everything is completed. Soon! Just waiting on suede, was shipped to me today. Also need to finish my holster modification. :)

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This thread will be very helpful on finishing and touching up some of the things im not too happy with/feel don't fit well...

Thanks a bunch! I'm going to wait and see your suede stuff before I start on that ;)

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Check your mail, Terry....I'm just going to send you my TB so you can make it all pretty. ;-) Better yet, when are we getting you to this part of Badlands for a build day? We'd love to have you here!

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