Pandatrooper's SC Biker Scout build

[StudioCreations]

Wholly mackeral.. you are a Bevelled Edge GOD!

 

I am humbled by your level of patience to do this technique. WOW!

 

-Jeff

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pandatrooper]

Glad it's helpful. Hope you enjoy seeing your SC armor being modified, Jeff!

 

Here's some updated pics of the back armor.

 

Back with rough return edge shaped.

 

After sanding (not polished). I leave the pencil line on the armor so that you can see where the angle changes. It's easily removed with rubbing alcohol when completed.

 

Right side of the front and back completed. I also cut the new webbing / elastic slots in the new positions.

 

Different angle.

 

Next, I will do the returns on the left side, trim it and cut the slots. Plus I will be working on the shoulder bridges next, then the shoulder armor.

[Pandatrooper]

Some updates.

 

Return edge on the left side of the chest and back completed. Now the front and back on both sides have returns and the slots for the lower chest straps have been cut. Really happy with how it looks. It makes the chest armor look "thicker" and tougher looking than before.

 

For joining the front and back at the shoulder bridge, I made some "T" straps. I first used some 1.5" elastic for the shoulder bell extension, and some loop velcro for the under bridge, just sewed the two together at the junction point. The shoulder bell extension has a square of loop sewn to it to attach to the shoulder bell armor.

 

For the canvas shoulder bridge loops, I sewed some 1 5/8" canvas straps. I doubled the width, folder it over so that there was a "good side out". Then I sewed some 1.5" elastic to the ends. Kind of tough to wrap your head around, but the image on the right (inside out) is how the strap is sewn, the image on the left is flipped (right side out) so that the canvas will be seen on the outside of the armor, but the underside is elastic and stretchy so it fits snuggly over the shoulder bridge armor. It took a couple of adjustments but when installed, they will fit TIGHT over the shoulder bridge area.

 

Here, I've already fixed some industrial hook side velcro to the underside of the shoulder bridges (chest and back). Then I slide the canvas shoulder bridge loops down onto the back armor...

 

Here I have attached some loop velcro to the underside of the bridge armor.

 

Now attach the velcro to the chest armor, joining the 2 parts

 

Now slide the canvas bridge loops over the velcro. The tension of the canvas bridge loops holds the velcro tight, it's not coming apart.

You can also see I sewed some elastic straps for the sides of the chest and back. Decided to go with elastic for now for ease of use, but I have an upgrade planned for later.

 

With the T straps installed (velcroed from underneath), I can now install the shoulder bells.

 

Before the torso is done, I wanted to add a small detail. Many of the screen scouts had a V shaped notch cut into the bottom of the chest armor, so that they would flex when in the riding position on speeder bikes and for comfort / stunts (I assume).

 

I pencilled in the V notch (actually cut it bigger than this).

 

Then I cut the notch out. I actually found that for whatever reason, the chest was slightly wider than the back armor. Because I am a slim build, I wanted to reshape the chest slightly. After cutting the notch, I heated the chest armor along the center seam and bent it inwards to reduce the outer width.

 

Unlike the screen scouts, I wanted to prevent the armor from cracking, so I cut a piece of scrap black ABS plastic, heated it and curved it to the contour of the inside of the chest armor. I also cut the notch in it, so that when it's glued in place, it will prevent the V shaped notch from splitting the armor further.

 

Just glued and clamped it in place with Plastic weld.

[lonewolf]

The canvas bridging straps are too wide IMO, half this size is more accurate.

The SC chest decal indent is too big, to "disguise" this part of the armour I used a smaller rectanglar decal.

I only highlight these because I can see you are a fussy guy with your costume builds.

[Pandatrooper]

Thanks for the feedback John. Yeah, I am a fussy guy.

 

I'll cut the front decal smaller.

 

Re: the bridge straps, I'll try to make another set. Half the width would make them 3/4" wide, which is rather small - no? Maybe 1" is better?

 

At that size, I am doubting that the originals were canvas straps at all. More likely old school 70's elastic (the old thicker ones with more rubber content were more yellow, with fabric woven in).

[lonewolf]

Yes I think the originals were elastic, I used white elastic on my first kit, making a stitched loop. I think many guys use a large wrap of material to hide the gap as they are larger and need a bigger gap.

 

You are pushing the SC armour up a notch, the rear back plate should be square along the "neck" and back hump area, cut the belt ends down, one rivet only central on each end, possibly cut the holster front detail lines to make them a bit more distinct? the drop boxes can be cut down a bit, round off the inner sides more, round the thermal detonator inner sides to sit with the curve of your back.You may have done some of these things already.

 

I love your attention to detail.

[4505Marcel]

WOW you are realy going to town on your build, top job mate. Look forward to seeing this finished. Im going to have to shoot Jeff a email and get me a set of those new knees.

[9506]

I just love your tutorial!

[scoutjockie]

Hey Panda,

 

Great build, you make it look so easy, helps me out a lot, as im quite new to this, just out of curiosity which helmet do you think is more accurate? and what helmet will you be going with?

 

Cheers

 

Megan

[HooliganScout]

I did 1 inch on the wrappings

[Pandatrooper]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I went to a local fabric store yesterday and went into their "vintage" section, and found some really cool elastic.

 

It's 1" wide and it's thicker than common white fabric elastic and has a fabric woven into it. It's off white and stretchy, very similar to what I think the originals were.

 

With the size and scale of the screen used shoulder bridge straps, I think they may have "looked" like canvas, but may have been this type of elastic instead? I know the current Lancer standard is canvas, but maybe it could have been this type of elastic?

 

Here's what it looks like.

 

Close comparison with my previous 1 5/8" sewn canvas straps

 

Left and right right compare

 

Full view

 

What do you think?

[Griffin-X]

I like the new option the best. Seriously, nice work Terry.

[HooliganScout]

I like the 1 inch better

[Pandatrooper]

Thanks all, glad you like the shoulder bridge solution. I already made one for the other shoulder.

 

Seriously tempted to buy the rest of the elastic they have at the store as it's old stock.

[lonewolf]

Great detective work, that elastic colour, width and the way it sits is excellent. Loving this build thread Terry.Thanks.

[shdwtrpr13]

I just got my SC armor in the mail this week and I'm reading through your tutorial right now. Thank the sith that I did because I'm somewhat clueless since this is my first scout and my garrisons are all on the southern part of the state. Any tips on how to return the edge on the front and back plates if we don't have your handy tool?

[Pandatrooper]

Thanks all, glad you like the elastic shoulder bridge. I think it's a good size if your chest is somewhat screen sized and don't need longer straps to cover the armor gap.

 

Shdwtrpr13, you can't really do a proper effective return edge without a heat sealing iron. You can buy them at most hobby shops, they are used when people build remote controlled airplanes, and they stretch this flexible wing material over their wing frames. The iron shrinks and seals the edge of the material on the wings, but of course it can be used for other "crafts".

 

Keep in mind that you don't need to do a return edge at all for 501st clearance or even Lancer for your costume. Some armor types come with a return, others don't. So it's not a requirement. I just did it to give the torso a more finished / polished look. If you're going to try it, do it on scrap plastic first to practice. Watch those videos carefully, and most importantly - be patient!

[shdwtrpr13]

thanks for the advice. I have SC armor and Loved how yours came out with the returned edge. I also noticed that it could be something I can do later on down the road. I love the look and yes your right is does look a lot more finished. so Until my skills build up I will use the rest of your tutorial for my work on my armor.

[Pandatrooper]

Some updates. Started on the belt armor.

 

Here, I have trimmed the extra rough trim plastic on the top and bottom. The screen scouts had very little plastic "overhang" top and bottom on the belts armor (look at some reference pics). I will sand the top and down bottom later when the belt is fully glued together.

 

Builders have used rivets to join the belt parts, but Lancer spec calls for a single belt so you need to glue the side boxes on. Here, you can see the angle if I wanted to glue the side box. One thing I noticed on the screen scouts is that there is very little gap between the side box and the main belt. There's only about 1/2" gap. I'm a slim guy, so if I glued the box on as it was formed, the belt would be a really big circumference.

 

I used a trick I established on building TK armor. The belts are often formed flat, so I simply taped 2 paint stir sticks together to form a simple clamp to hold the plastic, heat the edge with a heat gun then make a defined bend. This prevents the plastic from warping out of shape and gives you control to get the bend angle you want.

 

You can see here I have bent the end part of the main belt and the side box, specifically the "longer" side. I have a trick here I will do to make the gluing of the 2 parts secure. The end of the side box only has about 1" sticking out (where the rivet goes) based on screen scout pics. Again, I can do this because I'm slim but if you're bigger you might need a bigger gap between the armor pieces.

 

I have trimmed notches into the long tab portion of the side box, the other end is trimmed with a 1" tab to accommodate the single belt rivet

 

Using the same paint stick clamp bending trick, I bent the long tab into this weird shape. This allows me to glue the surface of the belt armor together. The extra notched portion will be glued INSIDE the connecting belt box.

 

You can see how they join and will be glued here. This will make the junction much stronger.

 

I've done this with both side boxes

 

You can see the angle here

 

You can see the angle of the end boxes and how they join up here. They are held with clamps but will be glued with ABS cement or E6000

 

I've also cut the slots in the front for the canvas belt straps. I found some off white canvas straps at a vintage fabric supply shop.

 

More to come!

[lonewolf]

That will hold the belt together very well. Nice how you have pulled the curve in, my belly didn't require this step

[Havok69]

That's a great idea. How's the gap between the joined pieces - do you plan to fill it with something, or does it look good enough to leave it the way it is?

[bjsavage7]

Wow! Thats a neat trick there, Terry!

I'm going to attempt a rivetless belt at some point.

[Pandatrooper]

That's a great idea. How's the gap between the joined pieces - do you plan to fill it with something, or does it look good enough to leave it the way it is?

 

There is no gap really, just overlap. Hardly noticable

[Pandatrooper]

Sorry, was away so haven't had a chance to update.

 

Glued the belt together with E6000 and clamped it overnight. Its rock solid.

 

For the front straps, I found some great off white canvas straps at a vintage store. Bought the last 2 yards! I cut some 12" long sections and installed female snaps on the ends, along with making some snap plates. These are glued inside the front of the belt, but will allow the straps to swivel and move with my body.

 

Snap plates glued in with Plastic weld.

 

Straps snapped in and attached to the side boxed with velcro sewn into the strap. Fastex buckle is installed by weaving the strap through the back (screen accurate I believe). As far as I know, the buckles are installed facing a certain direction, I based on the position on screen grabs from ROTJ.

 

I chose to go with a 4" wide velcro closure, left over right as it's the screen accurate fastening based on photos. I have sewn the velcro on but I haven't riveted the belt yet. I want to get the waist size perfect before riveting the belt so I velcroed it to test fit the perfect size for now.

 

For the rear straps, I wanted to try something similar to the front. I made a snap plate, and sewed it on the inside of the belt by covering it with a square if fuzzy velcro (fuzzy side against the undersuit) by sewing around the snap plate. I assembled the plate with a rivet and washer, same way I make all my male snaps (I have built 7 different TK's and TD's all using this method, never had a failure).

 

Here, the snaps are sewn onto the underside of the belt, and the corresponding back straps have female snaps pressed in.

 

Close up view

 

When the back of the belt is closed, you can see how cleanly the back straps hang and they can still pivot if need be.

 

Finished rear strap connected to hip box with the Fastex buckle woven in (again, I checked the orientation with screen pics. It's the opposite of the front strap if you want to get picky)

 

Finished back view

 

Finished front view (still need to rivet the belt armor to the belt strapping but I will leave it to later for sizing purposes).

[Pandatrooper]

For the thermal detonator, I wanted to do something a little different. Still screen accurate of course.

 

First up, I prepped the end caps for the TD by gluing in some ABS pipe so that the rear caps are centered, and firmly held in place. I glued a flat circular disc of ABS into the bottom of the pipe before gluing the pipe to the end cap.

 

The new SC thermal detonator (TD) is awesome. Great new shape, the back side is already curved to conform to the belt / screen accurate, I just sanded the corners and edges and drilled the holes for the zip tie that will hold the hose in place.

 

To hold the TD in place, I will use a combination of screen accurate clips and a rare earth magnet setup. The clips keep the TD upright and close, the rare earth magnets prevent the TD from shifting but still allow you to adjust or remove it easily when required.

 

You can get these magnets from hardware and furniture places, they are commonly used for cabinets.

 

I took a short section of 1/8" thick aluminum 1/2" wide, and drilled some holes at the ends 2 1/2" apart. The holes in the middle keep the bar centered and tight INSIDE the hose. The magnets will protrude from the hose and attach to metal studs attached the back of the belt.

 

The magnet cups were riveted to the aluminium bar, and the magnets glued into the cups. The steel cups will amplify the strength or pull of the magnets, more than the magnets alone.

 

Clearance holes are Dremelled into the hose.

 

The bar with magnets is placed into the hose, and riveted in place with 1/8" rivets about 1/4" long.

 

The hose assembly is zip tied into place. Make sure it's aligned with the back of the belt.

 

 

I marked the corresponding locations on the belt and punched holes and riveted the matching steel washers (they are always paired with the steel cups) in place. Make sure that the magnets sit absolutely flush with the matching steel washers as they won't be as strong if they aren't in direct contact.

 

The TD is now attached to the belt, just line it up and it clicks into place! Seriously, if Batman was building a TD - this is how he would do it. There's something incredibly cool about how it snaps into position.

 

Forgot to mention, I glued the TD greeblies in place with E6000. These are the Don Jarr greeblies and the position of them is based on the blue ray details.

 

You can actually lift the full assembled belt by the TD and shake it, and it won't come apart unless you specifically pry them apart.

 

I forgot to take a pic, but I hot glued the inside ends of the hose and glued the end caps on.