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Already did the acetone, and it almost look like when I got it.

From what I found on google, about acetone and fiberglass, it almost seemed like acetone was made to clean fiberglass, so I took the chance :)

Dont know what primer MC uses, but damn that stuff sticks to the helmet :)

 

Will sand it where needed and give it a new coat of primer tomorrow. Let dry for at least 24 hours, and then try a new coat of gloss white.

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The issue you had with soft paint was caused by too thick coats or not enough drytime between coats or both with out a doubt. Also the sun drying you did may have played a part drying the surface before the rest of the paint had a chance to outgas.

 

Acetone is the solvent typically used in fiberglass work. You need to be careful not to let it pool or remain on the glass too long as it will soften the resin and become tacky. Wipe it on and wipe it off. I would contact the maker of the helmet and find out what type of resin he used in the glass work, poly vinal, vinal ester, polystyrine or what have you, then google up how to prep and work with that particular product. different solvents will react differently as will different paint types. With paint thin layers are key one coat at a time. If you paint layers are too thick the surface will flash off traping the solvents inside. This can cause a couple issues. One being what you have already found, a "dry" surface but soft below. The other issue is called porosity. This is the appearance of tiny pinholes through out the paint. No matter how much you wetsand and polish you'll always be fighting them.

 

Helmet looks really nice, I cant wait to get one!

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Thanks for all the input guys :)

 

The plasticoat I started out with didnt have a colour I liked. I was white yes, but I just wasnt satisfied...Maybe I should have settled, instead of going throught it all again.

 

This time I am priming it with Citadel Skull White. Its a great hobby spray that dries extremely well, and I have worked with it quite a lot in the past years.

 

This is how it looks now.

 

P5240012.jpg

 

The primer is already dry, as it dries in a matter of minutes, and its now a couple of hours since I painted it, and I'm actually thinking about trying a new coat of shiny white paint.

Plasti-kote again, RAL 9010

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So did the last one, until I touched it...

 

But it seems nice and solid now. Will leave it be until tomorrow and give it another coat I think...but not sure if the extra coat is necesarry.

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Its dry now and heres how it looks

 

P5260002.jpg

 

P5260003.jpg

 

There are some tiny flaws in the paint though.

First is on the visor. At the top right corner it looks like the paint have run a bit, and the edge by the bolt, the paint is a bit uneven as well.

 

P5260005.jpg

 

P5260006.jpg

 

I have put in some plastic spacer/shims between the visor and the helmet itself.

 

P5260007.jpg

 

Next step will be a light wet sanding more or less all over, and then give it a final paint job. This time with the same brand of paint!

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Looks great now. I'm happy that the paint worked since at least in my part of Sweden it's near impossible to get a good quality spray paint. The only thing we have is cheap no-name or store-branded paints so if Plasti-Kote hadn't worked I would be in trouble.

 

What will you cover the inside with? Plasti-dip?

 

And one thing that has puzzled me a bit, the holes above the nose, are they supposed to be holes or will they be covered up?

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On screen the holes where just a decal, but the MLC helmet have them cut out. I will keep the holes to give me a tiny bit of extra air intake ;)

 

But I dont plan on doing anything to the inside of the helemt, except adding padding.

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Helmet is more or less done now. The screw covers are being glued with E6000 right now.

Heres how it looks.

 

P5280002.jpg

 

P5280004.jpg

 

P5280003.jpg

 

Thinking about painting the inside of the went holes black, to more simulate the decal thing. Dont know.

 

P5280006.jpg

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A real snug fit indeed... This is my issue with many Scout lids. My melon is larger than most and most buckets are built for smaller heads.

(My Altmann's is perfect with plenty of wiggle room but the MLCv3 is super nice as far as design)

 

\m/

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