Few tips on putting my SC armor together

[Guest UnderpaidSoldier]

Hello gang!

 

I had a few questions regarding my SC armor and wanted to run by you before I proceeded:

 

 

1) The manual for my SC armor recommended 1/8" rivets (with backwashers to prevent going through), should I use short or medium length?

 

2) I didn't own a hot glue gun and just purchased one with all purpose glue sticks, is this a wise choice or could I go with something of better quality?

 

3) For sanding down the sharp edges of my armor pieces, I bought both a medium and fine grade sand sponges. How much is it acceptible to round off before it becomes too much?

 

 

Thanks in advance, appreciate it.

[chimei]

1) depends on what you're riveting. the rivets on the boot attaching the top of the holster will likely be longer than the ones holding the vinyl to the boot base. if that one is too long, it'll dig into your foot. the ones holding the tank on only need to be long enough to sufficiently hold it on...but could be longer since they won't show or run the risk of rubbing the undersuit, bund, etc. i just bought a set of varied length 1/8" rivets at the hardware store.

 

2) glue gun? for what?

 

3) so they aren't pointy...but you don't want rounded edges...

[Griffin-X]

Agree with Chimei...I used 1/8-1/8 rivets for the belt and holster and 1/8-1/4 rivets for the boots. A glue gun is good, but what are you going to use it on?

[Chex]

Looks like your questions have been answered. And the glue gun will come come in handy one day, trust me. Just not handy unless you're gluing in the lens on your bucket. As far as rivets go, 1/8 is pretty much for everything, EXCEPT the rivet I used on the top of the tank. That one was the next size up.

[Guest UnderpaidSoldier]

I was going to use the glue gun for the following:

 

1) Attach the T-bits to the Bicep pieces.

2) Knob on the tank topper.

3) Snout assembly pieces onto the helmet.

[chimei]

1) will fall off

2) will fall off

3) will fall off

 

You definitely want to use a specific plastic adhesive. E-6000 is great.

[Griffin-X]

Yeah, I would not use a glue gun for that stuff. Your best friend is E-6000 (or super glue) for sure.

[Guest UnderpaidSoldier]

Thanks for the heads up!

[lonewolf]

Use ABS plastic weld[available at plumbing suppliers] to join the belt, this way it looks one piece.

 

The sanding sponges are not very controllable, use a fine sandpaper, 250 grit and maybe 400 to finish the edges. The shoulder bells will look much better with the corners rounded off, use a coin for the shape.

 

If you have a local haberdashery maybe change the elastic widths to be a bit more accurate, the biceps are about 2" for example.

 

Depending on how wide you are the chest piece can be cut straighter at the edges running at your underarms to allow more mobility and to look more accurate.

 

Use only one rivet at the centre of the belt ends, not two as the instructions say, this is more accurate.

 

This kit can look awesome with a few tweaks.

[lonewolf]

If the thermal detonator grey tube is a bit short you can pick up a longer piece from your local dump, thrown away vacuum cleaner hoses are the same. Even a thinner tubing may be more accurate.

 

Don't use two rivets on the tank hump, fit an angle bracket[many methods] on the back piece to join the hump on, the old manual may be updated which was not accurate.

 

For the wee grey rectangular detail on the chest piece use an offcut off the helmet decal set, and cut it quite a bit smaller than the recess, which is a bit too big.