Crouton's Shore Trooper - Squad Leader (Niamos) Build

[MoistCrouton]

Hi all,

I've been wanting to make a stormtrooper armor set and joint the 501st for quite a long time  now, and I've decided to bite the bullet and just get started, with what seems to be a doozie of a set.  My goal is going to be just to get approval while doing as many of the "easy" L2 additions as possible.  My helmet I plan on having be full L2 from the start.

I've decided that I am going to be making most, if not all of the armor myself using 3d printing and purchasing most of the soft parts.

Helmet Plans

STL File - Nico's Shoretrooper Helmet Files

Filament - PCTG (I'll let everyone know how that goes and update if I change filament)

Visor - Branfur Studios Shoretrooper Visor

    Paints

Filler Primer - Rustolium Filler Primer 2 in 1 (May try out Seymors PBE as Ive heard its really good and has a much shorter dry sand wait time)

Base Primer - TBD

Tan - Montana Gold - Sahara Beige

Black - TBD

Spicy Red - TBD

 

Does anyone have any tips on filler putty to use.  I usually use Bondo for my props but was wondering if there were any good alternatives.

 

 

[BikerScout007]

If I remember right the only place I needed filler putty was on the forearms and I used Bondo for that.

[MikeRadness]

Bondo Spot Putty is that I use when needed as well. For 3D printed pieces, there’s no substitute for sanding. And sanding. And then sand again. If you put in that work, spot putty is hardly needed.


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[Bushidogrunt]

16 hours ago, MoistCrouton said:

Does anyone have any tips on filler putty to use.  I usually use Bondo for my props but was wondering if there were any good alternatives.

 

 

I'd say Bondo as well. What I used on mine was Bondo mixed with Acetone at a 2:1 Ratio.

[MoistCrouton]

12 hours ago, MikeRadness said:

Bondo Spot Putty is that I use when needed as well. For 3D printed pieces, there’s no substitute for sanding. And sanding. And then sand again. If you put in that work, spot putty is hardly needed.


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The main reason I am using bondo is to make hiding interfaces for gluing parts together and making any slight printing errors such as a tiny x or y shift easier to transition.  Still sanding like crazy, just don't want to accidentally make a divot trying to correct those areas.

[MoistCrouton]

Is the base coat under the Sahara Beige supposed to be a very dark brown or a black?  I need to get the paints ordered for the helmet and this is the only thing I'm not sure of.

[BikerScout007]

Dark brown is the color it apparently was for Rogue One, though whether the Andor armors were painted the same is not known

But you'll be fine with dark brown

[MikeRadness]

Correct, for Rogue One the pre-painted armor was cast in dark brown. But as Mickey said, there's no confirmation that still holds true for Andor costumes. However, I still coted all mine with a basecoat of Montana Gold "Shock Dark Brown". But any dark brown would work if you decide to paint the undercoat. Also, if you are printing parts in black or dark brown, that could work well without the need for painitng for weathering that shows through the Beige as well.